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#1 |
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Moderator
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Privacy Fence
Getting ready to put one up here. Any pointers, comments, or advise would be greatly appreciated. By the way they just delivered out materials so hurry up with that advise.
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#2 |
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Mayor
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Birmingham, Al, USA
Posts: 815
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Well, I'm hoping that you aren't starting on it tonight...
THe only pointer I have I got from watching one of those do it your self shows. Here's the pointer: Don't cement the wooden fence posts in the ground. Use Dirt/Gravel and pack it down around it. If you Cement them, water collects in the cement hole (the one formed by the post) and rots out the bottom of the post. that's my .02. have fun ![]() |
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#3 |
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Mayor
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: MI
Posts: 589
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great idea bio but won't you end up with the same problem, only worse?
By packing just dirt around the posts, you are allowing any/all water to come into direct contact with the posts, rotting out the whole post.. (but thats my opinion.. )I would cement. Yes, cement is not the best idea as it can climb out of the ground if you live in cold climate areas but it provides strength and aids in supporting the wall part of the fence.. good luck...I have seen amish put up a fence around an entire farm in one day so the rest of us should be able to do it in about a month..lol
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Why put off today what you can ignore tomorrow? |
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#4 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: pa.
Posts: 140
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We've had one along the back border of our property for several years. The posts are cemented in. The lumber is pressue treated which helps prevent moisture and rot. Annual inspections show them to be as secure as the day they were poured and set. We put the posts about two feet into the ground as well.
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It aint' pretty being easy. |
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#5 |
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Council
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Columbus Ohio USA
Posts: 303
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I would cement them and use PTL for the posts also. The other thing, you wont have problems with frost heave if you plant the posts deep enough. Here its about 36 inches I think. Best way to get this deep would be to rent a power auger at the local rent a center. HTH.Mike
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#6 |
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Mayor
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Water rotting posts is a myth. Lumber companies use sprinkler systems to keep logs wet so they keep longer. Logs that are submerged in lakes rot much more slowly than logs on dry land. Stick with PTL and you'll be fine. Make sure that the PTL you get specifies 'ground-contact'.
Also, when putting up the slats make sure that you use 3 runners. One within inches of the top, one within inches of the bottom, and one down the middle. This will hold the slats in place better and control the warping.
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-Todd |
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#7 |
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Mayor
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Douglas, Ma
Posts: 775
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Always cement your posts, or at least the first, last and corner posts. I was a Carpenter for 5 years and built alot of fences and decks. A few ways to do this is...tar the bottom of your posts and use some plastic then pour the cement around your post or use a galvinized post bracket thats secured in the cement and attach your post to the bracket, the last method is for a smaller fence. (much like when you build a deck footing) and as stated above, if you do bury the posts, bury them atleast 2 feet deep. PT lumber should be fine for a long time even if you don't do anything when cementing them into the groung. Also, Rin is correct, PT lumber lasts longer in water or under land then it does above it. HTH
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In matters of principle, stand like a rock; in matters of taste, swim with the current. -- Thomas Jefferson Last edited by Firefish; 03-02-2002 at 02:59 PM. |
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#8 |
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Moderator
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thanks for all the advise, the post are in and setting.
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#9 |
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Governor
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Pacific WA
Posts: 1,220
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yes cement your post. The gravel is suppost to let the post drain. Post that are encased fully with concrete= the water is suppose to drain to the bottom= no relief= rot. So when cementing post best metiod is cement but leave the bottom clear of cement. Coating it of putting the gravel on the bottom is recommended. = gives drainge. When doing your boards some ppl go from top down. I would go from bottom up= get 3" away from dirt/ground. Use a string. This gives room for dirt build up ect.. if theres any wicking from the dirt or water on the bottom= rot. I would let the top run wild. Then snap a level line or whatever line you want and saw cut that. But it all depends on the ype of fence you are making=design. i usually use a carpenters pencil for a spacer bettween each board. If you place to close the can/willl bow when expand and contract. But don't listen to me I'm and Ironworker
But I use to build fences and housed for extra $$ when I was a kid |
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#10 |
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Governor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,171
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lol,im in for a break from rebuilding mine
ironreef has it right-gravel on the bottom of the hole for drainage,and cemnt em in. i still do this for extra $$$ once in a while ,and i know what im talking about...even though youre done already ,i guess i just had to chime in because of the coinki-dink ![]() |
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#11 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,026
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Well after 2 days, 1 cold and rainy the other cold and snowy, all my posts are set and ready for the panels tomorrow, when it's just going to be cold.
Posts are set 24-28" down, all are 8' apart and level. Can't wait to get mine done. What about you drlowz? 1 more day will do it? Scott Z. |
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#12 |
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Moderator
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I'm sick of 5 degree weather and a wooden fence I'll give you 13.72 to come down here and finish it......lol......
One more full day but not in the cold..
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