[Samper]

Hey guys I'm pretty excited cause I just got my Es 8-2 in the mail.
I halted the building of my sump cause I need advice.
In the cabinet underneath my main I measured and figure that I can have a sump about this size........
Sump size 14.75"w
36" long
24' tall.
and still have room for the other equipment that I need in there aka Ca and Nielsen reactors, co2 bottle........but didn't allow room for a chiller. I should do that I guess.

I can change the length and height by 5-10 inches either way but not the width. The skimmer I have is an Euro Reef ES 8-2 and for a return pump I"ll be using a mag 9.5.
My fuge is going to be above the main so I don't need one in the sump but still want as much water volume as possible. If you guys could help me design this sump I'd be grateful.
I'm looking for a skimmer chamber, adequate amount of baffles, added water volume chamber and a return pump compartment. The guy building the sump for me can build it any way I need so just let me know what you guys think.

[zhenya]

Originally Posted by Samper

........but didn't allow room for a chiller. I should do that I guess.

I personally wouldn't recommend puting your chiller inside the stand. It will produce so much heat that your chiller will be running constantly. I have ny chiller in the same room with my tank and let me tell you, it was a big mistake.
I am working now on moving it into a garage

[Samper]

I can always find a place for it.

[Constructor]

Originally Posted by Samper

I can always find a place for it.

Here is a cut list and some notations for a basic sump.

bottom 36" x 14.75"
back & front 36" x 24"
left & right sides 24" x 14.75"
inlet baffle 21.3333" x 14.75"
underflow baffle 14" x 14.75"
return baffle 4" x 14.75

The inlet baffle seals against bottom and slopes 1" toward left. The minimum distance between left side and top of baffle is determined by inlet plumbing. The underflow baffle is set 1" from the bottom and set far enough from right side to allow for return pump. The return baffle is sealed against bottom 1" to the left of underflow baffle. If you plan on using a substrate the return baffle needs to be 2" taller than the depth of the substrate. The operating water level needs to be at least 3" higher than the return baffle. With a 14" water depth this adds appx. 28 gallons to your system.

[scubadude]

Originally Posted by zhenya

I personally wouldn't recommend puting your chiller inside the stand. It will produce so much heat that your chiller will be running constantly.

Ditto! Im sooooo with Gene on this statement Samper. Its gonna cost a bit more and be more time consuming with the plumbing but its well worth it in the long run. Im actually redoing my 75g right now and Im plumbing my chiller for it outside of the house. Ya know you could have a few slots added into your sump and have removable baffles if you want wich could prove beneficial in the long run. For example on my 75g I actually designed my sump for two skimmers and later realized that the 2 ER's that I had in there wasnt really needed and wanted to take out one and replace that area with a fuge area. I know in your case you will have the fuge located elsewhere but my new sump will be expandable somewhat if you catch my drift. Some other things to consider is leaving enough room for your return pump and if you are putting a topoff float valve and where these two wont be in the way of each other.

BTW congrats on the ER....you will love it, post some pics for us when you get a chance.

[Samper]

I'll be moving home to Arkansas within the next 6 months and my tank will go in a basement there so I may not even need a chiller. Jdfenn was supposed to be building my sump for me but he just disappeared so I'm looking for someone who can do it for about the same price which was an awesome $150 shipped. I'm just going to put my return pump in the sump since I'll be using a mag but I have it designed to have it's own compartment. As soon as I can get another digital camera in the house I"ll get you some pics.

[Constructor]

I can build you a sump to your specs out of high impact PVC but shipped to Arkansas from Louisville KY for $150 is highly questionable. Contact me for details if interested. I am negotiable and reasonable. My e-mail is
merlin701@insightbb.com

Shade and Sweet Water

[Samper]

Constructor I'm in NC right now does that help?

I don't really use my email that much so I hope you get this.

[Constructor]

Possibly. How bout this.....I can build the described item above for bout $100. I will look into weight and shipping cost but I need a zip code and city. Surely I should be able to ship for $50 but I want to be certain . I will get on the cost right away and post back or e-mail you.

[Samper]

Alright.

[Constructor]

Originally Posted by Samper

Alright.

Here are a couple pics.

[Samper]

That looks pretty good although I was hoping for a clear sump. Guess it doesn't matter. Are there grooves to add extra baffles if needed? What are the exact dimensions of the whole setup and the compartments? My skimmer has a footprint of 11'' by 13 1/2". I'm also debating on an external return pump. I'm not quite clear if that is the one you built for me or not but I hope if it is you accomodated for this. Man I feel bad...

[Poseidon]

I need to build a new sump too. I guess I did a poor job on mine the first time. THe 2 baffles on the right of my sump fell out, so now the water level in the WHOLE sump drops with evaporation, instead of just in the rightmost chamber... I have already had some coralline algae turn white cause the water level dropped to much... I was using a 55 gallon tank, I think I am going to try and reinforce a rubbermade container with a 2x4 frame this time around... I never find myself looking into the sump anyway.

[Constructor]

I haven't built anything yet samper. I need the size of your inlet plumbing (coming from tank to sump) and the dimensions of your return pump as I build these for internal pumps. The baffles and permanently attached. I do not put grooves for baffles as then the baffles would not seal. This would affect the structural integrity and the mechanics of the sump. The inlet plumbing determines where the first baffle will be placed and the dimensions of your return pump determine where the return baffle can be placed. Whether or not you use a substrate in your sump and how deep determines the height of the return baffle. You tell me the outside dimensions (L x W x H) and I can build to those dimensions. I can make this out of clear PVC (actually translucent) but I would have to use low impact material and it would cost more. If you wish to have more baffles that is fine but I don't believe them necessary. If you want more baffles tell me how many and where. I can do this for an external pump but I would need to know the size of the outlet plumbing, where you want it to exit the sump, and threaded or socket fitting. It is much easier for an internal pump but I can do this either way. I won't start construction until I have the details.

[Samper]

Thanks constructor. I've been debating pumps lately. Some of the externals are much better on wattage used. Give me a week or so to decide for sure what I'm going to use and I'll let you know as soon as I know.

[Constructor]

Kewl holler at me when yer ready.

Good Night.....
and may your god go with you.