[rickers]

Originally Posted by Constructor

It takes a little patience to fine tune but it has worked for me every time.

i have never heard of this technique and would like some more detail to understand the operation of it.
if i understand correctly, you put some air line tubing inside the standpipe that starts at the top of the standpipe and can reach to the bottom right? then you pull 1/8" lengths out in 3-4min intervals. so is it air friction in the tubing outside the standpipe that allows adjustment of the standpipe? this is interesting.

[Rook]

Originally Posted by Rook

Well, for the most part I got it fixed. That long horizontal line was really giving me some problems. In the end, I had to reduce the durso to 1 1/4" pipe, which drains into 1 1/2" pipe. Which then is increased to 2" pipe at a 90 elbow and for the rest of the horizontal piping. I also used Constructor's idea, my LFS gave me that idea before I saw it here though. The flushing is at a bare minimum with only a little rush of air sound every now an then and once in a great while it will actually flush. I've had to really play with the placment of the air line in the durso and the slope of the horizontal run to get this far. I don't think I can get it silent, but this is much better.

As a new update for those who have as much problem as I have with this, I made a couple of changes that seem to have helped.

First, I went back to a 1 1/2 inch durso standpipe, but this time I did not use a tee with a 90 elbow, but instead used two 90 elbows and drilled the hole into the top of the 90. Then, I placed a long straw into the hole. You need to make sure to angle the hole such that the straw goes from the front of the standpipe to the back of the standpipe. By doing so the air will collect at the back of the standpipe as it flows down, thus reducing the friction the air places on the water. Also, I found that I needed to reduce the height of the standpipe. I tried to make it as tall as possible so I did not have the sound from water falling over the lip of the overflow. However, in order to create enough pressure to force the water and air down the pipe without the flushing effect, you need to follow Durso's recommendation that the standpipe must be at least 2" below the height of the overflow.

Finally, I do not have the flushing. However, it is not silent as you hear the water flowing over the overflow. I plan to place a thich rubber piece over the top of the overflow to cut that noise and also to prevent light and thus algae from entering the overflow.

Hope this helps someone else.

[prow]

i built this one http://www.dursostandpipes.com/ here are they details http://www.dursostandpipes.com/and ajusted by drilling small holes in the PVC pipe below the reducer, in between the bulkhead and reducer. works great no air gurgling or toilet sounds, very quiet.

[The R/C Man]

I didn't read the whole thread but one way to eliminate the noise is to buy a larger John Guest valve say 1/2". Drill a hole and tap it for the fitting. The valve makes a nice adjustable way to "dial in" the proper amount of air. If you can still hear noise coming from the valve you can install a piece of tube and run it down under the cabnet to muffle it..... Hope that helps.....

[shaywood]

I installed a durso stand pipe also. Followed the directions on his website. I started with a very small hole in the top and gradually made it bigger until the flushing effect went away. No more flushing sound in the living room!!