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    Sump design help? TOTW 10-21-05

    Hi all,

    I have been playing around with a sump design to go under my 75 gallon tank. Does the following design seem okay? Have I overdone it with the baffles? I have been trying to read up on this. I am no plumber, but eager to give it a shot. Any tips or suggestions from those who have done this before would be much appreciated!! I suspect I am forgetting about or not planning for something obvious!

    http://www.reefland.com/forum/attach...1&d=1128649309

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

    -Jason
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    Help! Do they make a saltwater patch? I think I’m addicted!

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    Just a little overkill with the baffles.My opinion I would get rid of 2,3,4,5.
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    Hey Jason, I run my sump with only 2 baffles. It would be #6, and 7 on your drawing. I don't have any problems with bubbles either. My sump is a 30 gallon long, so there is not that much space, but as long as I keep the sump level up, I don't have any problems. PLUS when the water gets low, it is the last chamber that has a water level drop, which causes the return pump to blow bubbles... A good reminder that it is time to add water!
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    Lots of different options here. I would remove 1,2,3 and put 4 where 1 is (increasing the size of your refuge space).
    Scott Z.
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    Revised Plan & more questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by Reefland
    Lots of different options here. I would remove 1,2,3 and put 4 where 1 is (increasing the size of your refuge space).
    Okay,

    Obviously I was over-freakining about bubbles with all those baffles.

    Here is the "back to earth" plan:

    http://www.reefland.com/forum/attach...1&d=1128908803

    Now.....I just have a few more dumb questions from a sump simpleton:

    1) How far down into the sump should downspout from the display tank go? I mean, should you bring the PVC down to the bottom of the sump and end with an elbow? Or should it be closer to the top of the water line?

    2) What is the advantage of PVC over flexible tubing for the plumbing both to and from the sump?

    3) Would it be best to "T" off the return plumbing and have two "U" pipes at opposite ends of the main tank to improve ciculation? Maybe at different depths?

    4) Is the noise from a Mag 9.5 much greater than a Mag 7? If not, should I just go for the 9.5 instead???

    Any other tips to avoid a major flood?

    Thanks for the input from all of you!
    -Jason
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sump design help? TOTW 10-21-05-sump-plan-progress-new-jpeg.jpg  
    Help! Do they make a saltwater patch? I think I’m addicted!

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    Moderator The R/C Man's Avatar
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    I didn't read the whole post but be sure you have enough room in the sump to allow for the water from the main tank during a power outage.
    Greg

    14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
    75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
    375 gallon tank....... SOLD
    675 gallon wood tank in design phase.

    Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

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    Excellent now not only will the sump be easier to construct as well as cheaper. You now have more room in your sump for other things like equipment, or even a refugium. Great thread guys!
    Rocky


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    Moderator The R/C Man's Avatar
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    The design is very similar to my small sump and the sump/fuge for the 375... I always believe that keeping it simple is the way to go.

    I have seen some really elaborate designs and I can't help but wonder how someone could possible "baby sit" that tank. If something where to go wrong....... Oooooohh.....
    Greg

    14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
    75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
    375 gallon tank....... SOLD
    675 gallon wood tank in design phase.

    Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

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    Moderator scubadude's Avatar
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    yet another thread that is on sump baffles

    TOTW 04/04/05 Sump baffles.......

    and heres one involving water level/topoff control via the sump.

    TOTW 4-19-05 sump water levels

    As long as every function you can think of is incorporated in the sump then only build it for what it needs to be.
    Rocky


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    Quote Originally Posted by scubadude
    Excellent now not only will the sump be easier to construct as well as cheaper. You now have more room in your sump for other things like equipment, or even a refugium. Great thread guys!
    Just another "Thanks" for all the help and input on the sump design. Here is a sketch of the final plan I used:



    Here is a live shot of the installed baffles (pardon the lousy silicone job... )



    Finally, here is a better view of the grating I put on top of the final baffle. I don't know if this will help keep the macro in place, but I thought it couldn't hurt...I guess I will find out soon enough! ;; By the way, can anyone identify the clownfish in this image below?





    Thanks again for the input! Hoping to water test later today!!!

    -Jason
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sump design help? TOTW 10-21-05-sump-plan-progress-new-jpeg.jpg   Sump design help? TOTW 10-21-05-im000172.jpg   Sump design help? TOTW 10-21-05-im000175.jpg  
    Help! Do they make a saltwater patch? I think I’m addicted!

  11. #11
    Moderator The R/C Man's Avatar
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    Looking Good....

    I know this may be a bit late, but did you sand the glass to rough it up before you added the silicon?
    Greg

    14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
    75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
    375 gallon tank....... SOLD
    675 gallon wood tank in design phase.

    Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by The R/C Man
    Looking Good....

    I know this may be a bit late, but did you sand the glass to rough it up before you added the silicon?
    Oooops. I knew I forgot something. I had read about doing that too!

    Rats.

    Hopefully the fact that I used 2 tons of silicone will overcome this oversight for a while.

    If not, I guess I'll just have one big 30 gallon fuge/sump/skimmer/return tank ...and pray the return pipe never gets clogged.

    Should I add 1 more ton of silicone just to be safe???

    -Jason
    Help! Do they make a saltwater patch? I think I’m addicted!

  13. #13
    Moderator The R/C Man's Avatar
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    If you haven't incorporated it into the system yet try giving a tug on the acrylic pieces. You will find out really quickly if they need to be redone.....
    Greg

    14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
    75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
    375 gallon tank....... SOLD
    675 gallon wood tank in design phase.

    Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

  14. #14
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    My first sump was under the tank and had a bio ball area and drip plate, so baffles where minimized.. but my second sump is in the basement with a 10' drop from the tank, no drip plate or balls, and I had to go back and add a baffle box to keep a major ammount of bubbles under control


 

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