[slittle24]

I recently designed and built my own sump. Being in this hobby for only a year I learned alot from it and thought I would pass it on.
First off don't make your sump more complicated than it needs to be. Do the necessary research, in forum's like this one, anywhere! Decide exactly what you want your sump to do and what will be installed in it, design accordingly.
If you decide to use a plastic tank for the sump remember that one gallon of water weighs about 8lbs. That means a 10 gal. sump already weighs 80lbs.! Yes, I'm writting from experience , wasn't thinking correctly that day.:slap:
Score the glass slightly where your baffles will be installed. This enables the silicon to get a better grip on the glass and will ensure a long lasting bond.
When purchasing your siphon and return pump, match the flow rates as close as possible. Remember just because a pump is rated for 500 gph doesn't mean you'll get that kind of performance with a 5' head (the height the water travels from your sump to the tank). Check the manufacturers specs for the flow rate at your desired height.
I would recommend placing a heater in larger sumps, less strain on your display tanks heater. Another point on this note is that pumps tend to generate some heat. Some more than others, but just something to remember.
A very important part of your sump would be its ability to hold extra water coming in from your display tank during a power outage. With the siphon installed correctly it shouldn't be much, but if your return pump plumbing turns into a siphon during an outage then usually theres a big mess. Easiest way I learned to solve this is to simply drill a small hole (1/8") just below the water line in your display tank. Once the water level drops below this hole the return pump plumbing will begin to suck in air, breaking the siphon. When you think you are prepared for an outage, perform a test to make sure. Shut off the electricity and watch your water levels. Improve/redisign anything necessary.
I hope this helps someone. If anyone thinks of anything to add please do, I too am still learning about sumps.

[slittle24]

Here there are.....

http://www.reefland.com/rho/2006/05/overflows_sumps.php
Melevsreef.com - What is a Sump?

[Randy]

“First off don't make your sump more complicated than it needs to be”
Right on! The K.I.S.S. method.

“if your return pump plumbing turns into a siphon during an outage then usually theres a big mess”

I just keep the top of my return plumbing ‘on’ or ‘just above’ the water line. During an outage it is impossible for anything bad to happen (at least not for a back siphon to occur).

As far as plumbing goes, it makes it so much easier to use valves and unions before and after the return pump. A bypass is very handy at times to redirect the return pump back into the sump with a hose or something. Every once in a while shut down the system and use your ball valves – make it a habit or else the valve will freeze up eventually making them useless.

A removable plug installed near the bottom of the baffle could allow the return pump to almost completely drain your sump (out of your bypass). In many cases this could be used for super simple water changes (if you do not keep livestock etc… in your sump).

[The R/C Man]

“First off don't make your sump more complicated than it needs to be”

AMEN BROTHER!

[slittle24]

Also I have found that gate valves make it easier to make minor adjustments than ball valves.

[rjs5134]

Great info Slittle, especially those links. Here's another link I found in another thread that I will be following to turn my spare 29 gallon into a sump.

55 Gallon In Sump Refugium

Rob