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  1. #1
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    Canopy for 75/90

    Finally, got my canopy project into the finishing dept(my living room), and thought I'd post some pics. ;;
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  2. #2
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    I had been looking around the net for a stand/canopy and couldn't find one that would meet my two criteria...
    1 look good
    2 be functional
    so I built this canopy. The feature I thought all would appreciate is the fact that it was built from all standard sized material available at Lowes or Menards(I checked both). By std I mean it only neaded to be cut to length wich means you can get the saw guy at the local store to cut it up for you and then all you have to do is screw it together. I could have certainly built a more elaborate design had I had access to a tablesaw and router (and shop) but this simple canopy is exactly what I needed. I still have my detailed cut list and initial drawing in case anyone wants me to upload it.

  3. #3
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    "finished" product

    You may note that this canopy has the unique feature that the top is openable(if that is a word).
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  4. #4
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    The top is split into three parts and two of them are hinged so that they open up to give total access to the tank (approx 12 inches of open top when both are revealed). I also hinged them with removable hinges so that they could be completely removed if need be.

  5. #5
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    The three part top came about out of neccesity. I found it difficult and more importantly too expensive to purchase a piece that was wide enought to cover the span with one board. After going the three seperate piece rout I resolved myself to the idea that it was better this way as there would be less likelyhood of bowing later on.

  6. #6
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    This top only took about 1.5 hrs to assemble and really turned out nice(IMO). It hangs down three inches over the tank for three reasons
    1 I wanted to stretch out the look of the tank... making it appear wider than it really was
    2 It will hide a powerhead at the top of the tank nicely(on its side)
    3 I am not ready to plumb yet so I need to hide the water level sometimes(evaporation).

  7. #7
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    My next move will be to mount my two 95w-3' vhos (one in front 3rd and one in back 3rd of top), then mount two 95w pcs(one in back one in front), then mount two 55w pcs on the right side middle, then a 400w mh on the left middle. I went with mh only on one side because I wanted to keep my mix of soft and hard corals going in this tank. My xenias, mushrooms, chili, zoos and starburst polyps don't really like the mh all that much. I also like the color I get from the pcs and vhos more than the halide so I thought this would give me the best of both worlds.

  8. #8
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    summary

    steps:
    1. mark out all screw holes with carpenter square
    2. drill out all screw holes with oversized bit - slightly larger than the screws(helps make a really tight fit)
    3. attach 2" face stock and 2" center rails
    4. attach 2" face stock and rails to sides
    5. attach back side (inset 3/4 from back of sides)
    6. attach back support behind back side
    7. attach back support to 2" center rails
    8. attach top and face at 90 degree angle
    10. lay out all pieces and mark where third top piece goes
    11. attach 3rd top piece
    12. attach hinges
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  9. #9
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    A couple of questions:
    1) Assuming that in the unfinished pictures the canopy is upside down, doesn't the top sit too low over the water?
    2) Same assumption, the rear of the center top rail does not appear to connect to the rear cross piece (it looks like you have two loose boards between the center rail and cross piece). What keeps the back of the canopy from falling down?
    3) The finished picture appears to show the canopy with two "layers" (the bottom one being about 4" high and extending about 3" further to the rear than the top, and the top layer being inside [slightly narrower and less deep] of the bottom layer). This second "layer" doesn't show in any of your unfinished pictures or your descriptions.

  10. #10
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    q's about canopy

    No, the top sits exactly 9 1/4 inches above the water.
    I didn't intend for my unfinished pictures to show a step by step, wrather how I used a few boards to support the back piece while I fastened it. There is a board that sits behind that back face and connects up with the cross supports... I have taken a pic illustrating this but have not posted it yet.

  11. #11
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    Yes, the bottom layer or trim, does extend both three inches down over the tank and three inches behind the tank... the extension behind the tank was a result of having the wrong material cut for the side trim and subsequently deciding to use my "cutoffs" from the front trim and face(the original pieces where cut to size but where construction grade material). I decided to use the longer piece after all because I was thinking it would help keep light from "shooting" out of the back reveal to the sides. I really hate being distracted from the tank itself by residual light.

  12. #12
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    Just a little fyi... I did extensive research into the cost of this project using three different grades of lumber at menards. Oak would have cost $113, the aaa grade pine ended up at around $70 after a few mistake cuts, and construction grade pine would have been $35.

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    ammendment to "steps":
    14. attach face trim to one side trim
    15. attach face + side trim to canopy
    16. attach final side trim to canopy

  14. #14
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    ps picture is not upside down. ;;

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    Thanks for posting those detailed instructions!
    Scott Z.
    75 Gallon Reef Log
    Powered by Reefland's Personal Online Aquarium Log

  16. #16
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    If I can find my original 3d pencil drawing and then get the energy to hook up my scanner, I will post both the cutlist and the drawing. thanks

  17. #17
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    ps here's an old pic of my 46
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  18. #18
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    OK here is a more revealing pic. You can see I simply used my "cutoff" 10" (9 1/4 actuall) piece from cutting the sides to make the support for the back. You can also see how the top opens up on this pic. I finished the canopy in marine paint I bought from my local farm and fleet. It was a two part primer and finisher. It has been my experience that two part paint works much better at sealing and waterproofing something. I am no chemist nor a painter but I think it has something to do with pigment weakening a paints ability to "sink in" to wood grain. Anywho, I was contemplating spending the $30 ea to purchase reflector material for this canopy, but then decided to purchase some metal tape from the local menards. It is flashing tape... it is a tad more "shiny" than the flashing itself and is "smoother", perhaps leading to less diffusion. At the very least it is a much more economical approach to reflectance, and in the long run - I have much more wattage than I need as it is - who cares if one or two watts are being utilized to less than their full potential (green peace perhaps - sorry guys, then again who knows maybe it puts more pollution in the environment to make expensive reflector material than it does to burn carbon and power my lights). Ok, I'll shut up now.
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  19. #19
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    Well, moving into phase II now. Just got a nice piece of translucent red plexiglass from estreet plastics, and intend to fashion it into a overflow/divider with a heat gun. This will offer a somewhat hidden area in my tank for my heater, a few powerheads, my prism skimmer cup, and my fluval skimmer. It should create a lot of surface movement (not plummed though), and perhaps even an area for copepods and amphipods to develop... or just a place for several of my fish to get trapped! LOL. My hoeven's wrasse has actually managed to get stuck in my prism cup as it is!
    Anywho, I also purchased a 4in1 fan and a fancy heat vent for above my halide (above the reflector). All I need now is to drill four holes and some jigsawin'.
    Anyone out there try an overflow area that isn't plummed?

  20. #20
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    went ahead with operation red plexi over the weekend. used a $10 heat gun to bend the red plexi - worked great! tuff to keep things square though. bought a 4in1 fan off ebay and cut out a spot for it below a std decorative heat vent from menards. I positioned the fan above my mh reflector and below the heat vent... no light seepage and good ventilation! those aquatek fans are loud though! installed my vho ballast (aro) and all went as planned. will post some pics asap. the bottom line - this canopy rocks. easy to get in my tank now. just swing open the top/front and I can get to it all!


 

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