[faterikcartman]

I have been less than thrilled with the attitude of a major tank company near me (let's say it rhymes with "see car"), not to mention the $6,000+ quote.

I have the time, I can get help, bar clamps, the right silicone and a pnumatic adhesive gun (for even application).

I have found, what I believe to be a suitable glass company in SoCal (TMB Glass) that seems capable of doing the cutting, edge polishing and even tempering.

Is the information out there, or on this forum, to guide the home-made construction of a 300 gallon 3/4" low-iron glass tank?

At first my wife was not too keen on the idea, but then pictured the low-paid workers at "see car" and figured we couldn't possibly be less qualified.

Thank you in advance for any info. The search feature did not return adequate results, as far as I was able to find, unless there is boolean search capability I am unaware of.

Cheers

[reseter5]

i did custom glass work and fish tanks for 5 years... it can easily be done.. tempered is the way to go if you want to spend the extra cash.. all you need to do is figure out were you want the holes drilled... overflow design.. total size.. and a glass thickness of 3/4" tempered is more than enough.. just remember you are measuring the glass pieces.... and clean clean clean surfaces for the silicone...

[The R/C Man]

Hey!

I also believe you can do this yourself provided the glass has been precut, predrilled etc. For the main viewing panel you should consider the acrylic like clarity of Starfire glass (low iron). Be sure the demensions of the tank will allow you to get into the house either through the door or a window. I just moved into a new house and my tank is sitting in the garage until the weather gets better for me to pull the window. Be sure to do your research as the panels are assembled in a particular order. Oh, and be sure to keep us in the loop with pictures.

[faterikcartman]

Well there's the rub Greg, I am trying to research the correct panel order.

I would probably assemble in the family room.

I know the 3/4" panels would weigh a friggin ton, as would the whole tank, and I'm wondering too about how to lift a tank that heavy into place.

Do you know of assembly directions for a big tank? Most I've read seem to be contemplating really small tanks.

Do you need jigs for example? Does the weight of the glass squish out too much sealant? Do you need two lines or only one of sealant? One panel at a time or all at once?

Yes, I would have everything cut and polished first.

[underseaworld]

I thought about making my own tank. Then I came across this site. Glasscages.com - Home / News I paid $1,200 for my tank drilled and shipped.
My tank is a 300 gl tank e/w lead free glass in the front were the viewing area is. The guy was real easy to deal with.

Keep in mind if you try to silicon in the house that the smell of the silicon is real bad. And that you may need to vent the house to get the smell out.

[The R/C Man]

Well after building my own 375 gallon acrylic tank I must say that I wouldn't do it again.... It was quite a bit of work and although I saved a big chunk of cash there is no warrenty on my work so if something was to fail then there is no replacement.. I hope it holds!

As for the build, I would say to start by adding the back panel onto the bottom. Add enough silicon so that it will squeeze out the sides. (trim the access later) You will need to build a jig in order to hold the panel at an exact 90 degrees to base. If you have a stand welded for the tank it will probably be an optimal building platform. Next I would add the side panels. Again create jigs to maintain alignment. I would use some light weight bar clamps in order to keep the side panels pressed up against the back. Use enough pressure to leave a thin layer of sealant inbetween the glass pieces. The next step will be to add the front piece. Since the rest of the tank is assembled at this point you will not need any jigs but the bar clamps are a must. I am not sure what your lighting plans are but you are going to need cross braces on the top of the tank. As for the sizes and placement of the braces you will need to research that one. I can only guess.

After you remove (trim the access sealant) you will need a nice beed around the inside for additional support and leak protection. Tounge depressors work great in providing a nice finished look..

Oh, use acetone to clean the areas prior to gluing.
LET EACH GLUE JOINT CURE FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE STARTING THE NEXT PIECE!!!!
"A non-toxic 100% silicone sealant. We have used NAPA brand (part #765-1336) with good results for years, but we recommend All-Glass® Brand 100% Silicone Sealant or a similar type product."

I have also used Napa Sealant for some of my projects with great success. It is available in calking gun tubes at about $10 each. For a project your size this is a considerable savings.

Disclaimer: Keep in mind that I am not an expert so take my advice with some scepticism. I have however done acrylic work for about four years building sumps, protien skimmers, kalk reactors and the like for Barr Aquatics Systems. It is now under the name Austin Oceans with new owners which I no longer work for. Their products are of the same great quality and I recommend them....

Let me know how it goes..... Good Luck!