[flgoose]

Hello everyone.

Even though this is my first post, I'm not new to the hobby. I started many years a go with a 20 Gal and after many upgrades I ended up with two 75 Gal salt water tanks setups. Of course once you got the bug, you can never have a tank big enough. One day I was donated 2 1/2 panes of glass which I had planned on making a tank out of it. Life got in the way and my plan was put on indefinite hold. Well after many years of storing that glass, I am finally building my dream tank. I'll post progress and pictures in my gallery as I get along. I would appreciate any advice or comment in any steps of the construction. Many heads are better than one and I don't have all the answers. Sure wouldn't want this tank to fail.

Ok here is the plan: The tank size is going to be 82" W x 27"H x 27", roughly 275 gallons. It will sit on a 34"or so high stand with a hood. The filtration and any equipment should be all contained within the cabinet. The ultimate goals are: keep cost to a minimum, easy maintenance and of course keep it as quiet as possible.

Step one: The stand.
I am making the stand out of pine. Because of the size, the stand will have to come apart or it will never make it out of the basement. The sides are made out of a bunch of 2x2 I got for free glued together to make boards. Since I don't see the point of shaving off wood for no reason, the thickness of the side boards are little more than 1" thick. Top and bottom rails are made out of 2x4's. Since this is a big piece of furniture and I have the equipment to do it with, I added some beading details to break up the monotony of a large flat surface. The corners details are made out of a hand rail. They add esthetic details as well as being functional in the modular design. The side panels are held together with metal table brackets from the local Ace Hardware.

Question: Is it better for the stand to be open in the back or closed?

http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...00&userid=7969
http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...imageuser=7969
http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...imageuser=7969

Total cost so far:
2x2's for side panels Free
6 2x4's for top and bottom rails 12.55
Hand railing for corners detail 14.08
12 table leg brackets 3.00
deck screws 2.96
------
TOTAL 32.59

[Reefland]

Hi flgoose,


That stand is looking pretty good. What color do you plan to finish it?

On to your question, it is best to have the stand as open as possible, considering it is still structurally sound and aesthetically pleasing. I am guessing that the stand is going to be against a wall and the back of the stand covered? If so, leave it as open as you can in order to have plenty of wiggle room for electrical and plumbing.

[flgoose]

I'm planning on staining it Bombay Mohogany. Which is like old blood red. Yes it's going to go againts a wall. Don't know which one yet as my house don't have walls that big without a window or a door. I might have to buy a new house

The stand is near competion so i need to think ahead. Can any one tell me how much space in hight I need on the canopy? At this time i'm not even thinking of what lighting I will get for it but I would like to be able to accomodate any type of lighting.

Thinking further ahead: any suggestion on how big the filter should be? I'm planing on building the type with the bioballs etc.

[charlie]

Sounds like a nice project for a rainy or 2!!

I will following along.
I would build the canopy at least 14" off the top of the tank. That height should accomodate up to and including 400w halides. I would also make some fan holes in the sides of it, 1-2 on each side, enclosed canopies do heat up a bit.

Is this a fish only tank? The reason I ask is the type of sump you want to have. If your goal in the future is a reef tank, I would deep six the bio-balls. They are a definite nitrate garden, and most reefs won't deal with that.

HTH, we will be checking in!!!

One more thing, Make sure your stand is tall enuf to fit a pretty good sized skimmer underneath!!!!

[Reefland]

You really do need to figure out your lighting plan before building the canopy. If you go with T-5 or similar, you can get away with a canopy 6" high. If your going for Metal Halide and light loving corals, you will need one about 14" high, which is a pretty big difference.

[flgoose]

Thanks for the advice so far, keep it coming. First of all the tank is going to be a fish only for awhile but eventually i do want to change it to a reef. So i must be ready for later changes.

Wow 14" tall cannopy? i didn't expect it to be this tall. that will make the total hight 76". I might need a step stool to get to the tank. I have not read up om the t5 lighting and I do know metal helide do run hot. If it was you guy's, what lighting would you go with?

There is about 30" clearence in the stand. That should be enough for a good size skimmer. I've seen some pretty small skimmers in the local petshop that were in use in a 200 gal reef tank. They didn't seem that hard to duplicate. I'm not thinking that far just yet. First thing first. But I welcome any suggestions. I'm also planning on a UV sterilizer but have no idea how big that one needs to be either. as for the filter with the bioballs, can it still be used for reef by taking out the bioballs?

Please bare with me, I,m learning as I go along.

[charlie]

Originally Posted by flgoose

Thanks for the advice so far, keep it coming. First of all the tank is going to be a fish only for awhile but eventually i do want to change it to a reef. So i must be ready for later changes.

Wow 14" tall cannopy? i didn't expect it to be this tall. that will make the total hight 76". I might need a step stool to get to the tank. I have not read up om the t5 lighting and I do know metal helide do run hot. If it was you guy's, what lighting would you go with?

There is about 30" clearence in the stand. That should be enough for a good size skimmer. I've seen some pretty small skimmers in the local petshop that were in use in a 200 gal reef tank. They didn't seem that hard to duplicate. I'm not thinking that far just yet. First thing first. But I welcome any suggestions. I'm also planning on a UV sterilizer but have no idea how big that one needs to be either. as for the filter with the bioballs, can it still be used for reef by taking out the bioballs?

Please bare with me, I,m learning as I go along.

With it being a fish only right off the start, I would try the T5. I have not used them before, but I have heard good things. I have seen the actinic T5 in use, and they are a good looking piece. That said, with the tank being 27" deep, and you wanted to go with sps, you are almost hung to the 400w halides. If you could go with a 24" depth, you would be able to get away with a 250w setup. You also have to think about the depth as far as working on the tank, aqauscaping, cleaning the glass and so on.

The one thing you don't want to skimp on is the skimmer. For a fish only or a reef tank, your skimmer is an important part in your filtration.

Just make the sump available to be remodeled to one that does not use bioballs.

[flgoose]

Atually I'm pretty much stuck with the dept of 27" as the panes of glass I have are that size and cutting them is out of the question. I never taught of the dept being a factor for the light. So I guess I better make the cannopy to accomodate the helide lighting. Thanks, I really needed that imput. Yes aquascape and maintenance is going to be a problem with both the hight of the top of the tank and the depth itself. I just have to deal with that one.

I'm not going to skimp on the skimmer nor the filter. I've been looking at commercial filters and i've even considered making 2 of them. After all the ones i've look at were rated for half the water I will have.

[charlie]

Originally Posted by flgoose

Atually I'm pretty much stuck with the dept of 27" as the panes of glass I have are that size and cutting them is out of the question. I never taught of the dept being a factor for the light. So I guess I better make the cannopy to accomodate the helide lighting. Thanks, I really needed that imput. Yes aquascape and maintenance is going to be a problem with both the hight of the top of the tank and the depth itself. I just have to deal with that one.

I'm not going to skimp on the skimmer nor the filter. I've been looking at commercial filters and i've even considered making 2 of them. After all the ones i've look at were rated for half the water I will have.

Grab your scuba gear!!!!!!!! Oh what the heck, you will enjoy every minute of it until your torch coral stings something.

Glad we could help, but by all means, keep those questions coming. I think I am gonna be off work for another 2 weeks.

[flgoose]

I just might need the scuba gear to get to the bottom my arms are not that long.

Well I'm close to get the doors of the stand finished than I will be starting on the cannopy. I have about 2 weeks to get the bulk of the work done so i'm at it all day.

couple of questions: Is Lexan toxic for the system? I have a big sheet of it and I was thinking of using it to make some filter parts that need drilling or routing. Most everything else will be made out of glass as I have plenty of it and I can cut it to suit my needs.

I have not figure out how to put the glass together yet. 1/2" glass is heavy. I came up with 2 schemes. 1- lay the bottom flat and put on the sides and the top trim than turn it over and put in the bottom trim 2- put the sides together than lay the bottom on top of them and the trim than turn it over and put the top trim. either way is going to be a job to get this thing off the floor and on to the stand. Any suggestions?

[charlie]

Why don't you try to get hold of a guy that works with glass that is local to you. Run what you are trying to do by him, and I bet that he might have some suggestions for you.
Me, I ain't got the slightest idea. You also may try getting ahold of someone that works with acrylic and ask them how they put tanks together.
As far as the Lexan goes, I think it is safe. Maybe someone else could chime in here and give us a hand???

HTH

[Reefland]

Lexan is safe.

I would agree with Charlie as far as contacting a glass shop and seeing if they can give you some pointers. I also know that The R/C Man can help out, but his access is sporadic right now.

[flgoose]

Glad to hear Lexan is safe. I'm sure I can find use for the sheet I have.

Well the stand is all completed, Check out the pictures. They don't do justice to the size of this thing. I had to put heavy metal corners as i couldn't keep it square with just the table legs brakets. I did a beeding in the opening edges of the doors and a standard door trimming with the router. the beeding does breack up the big flat surface and gives it a little of elegance. I do like details. I'm off to start on the cannopy.

How do you put pictures right in the posting?

http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...imageuser=7969
http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...imageuser=7969
http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...imageuser=7969

[charlie]

You already have them in your gallery right!! Click on the image to open it up, and copy the bb image code. Go back to your post, and paste it into the post. HTH

How heavy is that bugger! The stand for my 300 weighed close to 400 lbs. It was made from 5x9 beams my friend had sitting around his work site!!!
I think it looks really good!!!

[flgoose]

I have no idea how much the thing weigh, i imagine it has to reach in the 300 lb range.

OK i'm stumped on the cannopy. I think i will plan on t5 lighting. I know depth wise they are only good for little less than 23" but i figure it will be ok loosing the last 3" at the bottom. some of them will get taken up by the substrate anyway. What do you guys think?

Back on that cannopy. I'm thinking to put to 2 L shaped doors on the front for easy access but i have no idea of what to do on the back. I was thinking to drill big holes for the plumbing and what ever and leave the rest solid. Perhaps add a couple of muffin fans for exaust. do i need to do baffles so light won't come out? do the t5 lights need to vent? speaking of which, is it better to have 2 smaller lenght wise lights or one big one. lets not forget that the tank is 80 plus inches wide. I want to do this right the first time around as i will be selling my woodworking equipment when i'm done with this project.

[charlie]

Is there any way at all that you could leave the back open for future considerations? How tall is it going to be? All lites need to vent!!! Lite=heat IMO.

I would make your fan holes on the sides, I think this is just a personal preference, But have the fans blow across the top of the tank. One side in and one side out. With the back being open this can also provide for future considerations. I think you would be better off with a combination of 3-4' T5 lamps, if that is the way you plan on going. The amount of T5 has yet to be determined???

[flgoose]

Charlie, I'm kind of taking your advise. I'll make the back open but still make 2 panels that I can install later if needed. And yes i will put fans holes on the side as you suggested.

On the lighting: I am as confused as ever. I ran across a site( nit sure if i can post a link in here) while reading about t5 and they also have t4's. they both available in 6400K but in the t4's they have higher wattage. so what is the difference between the t4 and t5 pertaining to the hobby?

[Reefland]

For the reef aquariums you have either:
Metal Halide
VHO
PC
or T-5

Period.

[charlie]

Charlie, I'm kind of taking your advise. I'll make the back open but still make 2 panels that I can install later if needed. And yes i will put fans holes on the side as you suggested.

Could you do that on the sides also, a couple of extra fan holes may not hurt.

Scott is right on about lighting. I have never heard about t4 lites??

[flgoose]

As i was building the cannopy, I was thinking: what if i put fan holes on the top? After all if the back is open the air flow could blow right down and come out the back. What do you thinK? I'm just trying to avoid putting holes on the side as they are not very attractive.