TELL ME WHAT YA THINK??? (SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME)

[William Dennis Lang]

Below are pictures of my sump tank setup. Please don't hesitate to make any suggestions
We'll start with my CPR overflow device, follow the piping down to the sump tank, then through the sump tank until we hit the return pump, follow the pipes back up to the Display Tank.

[William Dennis Lang]

Next, the pipes leading into the sump tank is the pipe in the background of this pic.

[William Dennis Lang]

Then flows into the back right input area of the sump tank(which if you look closely you can see that I drilled 16 holes in the bottom of the input pvc pipe). Then that back right section spills over into the right section of the sump tank(where the protein skimmer currently sits) which is where I'm going to put at least a 4-5 inch. sand bed. From the right section water filters through the bubble trap(going over under and then over the 3rd barrier) and finally spilling into the left (return) section(where the return pump currently sits).

[William Dennis Lang]

From there the return pump sends the water up the pvc pipe turning at 2 elbow joints to end finally back up at the display tank.

[Reefing Madness]

Looks good. But one question. How high does the water get in the sump when you loes power? Looks like it will overflow form the syphoning that happens in the lines. ?

[William Dennis Lang]

Looks good. But one question. How high does the water get in the sump when you loes power? Looks like it will overflow form the syphoning that happens in the lines. ?

You can see the water line in the left section where the return pump is located.

[William Dennis Lang]

You can see the water line in the left section where the return pump is located.

whats a good way to drill a hole right above the waterline without water coming out of that hole too making splashing noises?

[Reefing Madness]

whats a good way to drill a hole right above the waterline without water coming out of that hole too making splashing noises?

No real good way. But that hole must be there, unless you have the return right at the surface.

[William Dennis Lang]

No real good way. But that hole must be there, unless you have the return right at the surface.

I was thinking drilling the hole right below where the water line is when the Display Tank is at its highest, that way water will flow out of the little hole under water while everything is running fine and it won't produce a trickling sound. And if the power goes out the Display tank water level will start to drop and if the power goes out as soon as the water level hits that small hole it will not create a syphon...what do you think?

[Reefing Madness]

I was thinking drilling the hole right below where the water line is when the Display Tank is at its highest, that way water will flow out of the little hole under water while everything is running fine and it won't produce a trickling sound. And if the power goes out the Display tank water level will start to drop and if the power goes out as soon as the water level hits that small hole it will not create a syphon...what do you think?

Ya know what, you got it right and I got it wrong. I just re-read what I posted , and figured that I posted it wrong. The hole is supposed to be below the water surface, and when the water goes down, breaks the syphon and no more water.....Man, I"m losing it.

[William Dennis Lang]

Ya know what, you got it right and I got it wrong. I just re-read what I posted , and figured that I posted it wrong. The hole is supposed to be below the water surface, and when the water goes down, breaks the syphon and no more water.....Man, I"m losing it.

lol, thanks...I'm just trying to think of ways to cut down on aquariums sounds that are produced, like trickling water.

[wet dreamer]

I cut down some noise on mine by using a small piece of sponge so the water hits the sponge when it sprays but can still get air when needed.

[William Dennis Lang]

I cut down some noise on mine by using a small piece of sponge so the water hits the sponge when it sprays but can still get air when needed.

Good idea...thanks

[Medevack1]

I do have to say this was a great idea for those of us who already have their tanks set up and don’t want to starts all over again to have the tank drilled. this looks like a weekend job for me I will have to take advantage of your build and try it myself thanks looks awesome.....

[William Dennis Lang]

I do have to say this was a great idea for those of us who already have their tanks set up and don’t want to starts all over again to have the tank drilled. this looks like a weekend job for me I will have to take advantage of your build and try it myself thanks looks awesome.....

Thanks Medevack

[FozzyBear]

Hey,

I'm new to the site but I've got some experience with what you've described above.

I did all DIY.

Similar to yours, I created a syphon which spills out into a small reservor hanging on the side of the tank. Major difference as I can see is that I installed the inlet for the pipe running down to the sump only a fraction below the normal level of the tank, in my case with 1100L/hour a pipe diam. 40mm gave a level difference of 6mm's.
When power gets cut, the level sinks 6mm's which is equivalent to only 8L (I've got a 70 gallon tank). The syphon (tank=>reservoir) stays intact because its outlet is over 15mm's below the inlet leading to the sump so no air gets into the syphonpipe. I added a small tube with a one-way valve which goes all the way inside the pipe to the top of the syphon: this way I extract air by attaching a plastic sirringe to the tube, while no air can be drawn into the syphon caused by the backpressure. Works great and always keeps running.

I've not managed to get rid of the sound the spilling water makes!!! Mine drops down 2.5 feet. I've tried installing bends, but as soon as the pipe to the sump starts syphoning due to the watercollumn dropping you get enormous gurgling sounds.

I strongly advise NOT to put sponges behind the syphon anywhere.
One day, I was surprised not to hear gurgling. I thought the pump had stopped but the level in the tank was ok. Close inspection revealed that the overflow was only barely letting the water through to the sump, causing a "controlled" overflow. If the sponge had completely blocked, the sump would have been emptied into the tank causing a flood , and a dried-up pump and skimmer, so I got rid of the sponge.

"Delbeek and Sprung" suggest to use a 90°bend which inlets below the waterlevel of the reservoir, leading to a T-joint whitch connects to the pipe running to the sump. The top of the T-joint has a tight fitting, non glued, end-cap with a hole drilled through the side all the way into the T-joint. By turning the end-cap you can adjust the opening and regulate the overflow, avoid syphoning and reduce the noise significantly. I'm currently making these adjustments to test their suggestion


All above might be a waste of your time but hey, who knows maybe its giving you some extra info?
Pictures look great by the way.