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  1. #1
    Just Moved In
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    Ion Exchange recharge vessels DIY.

    Ion Exchange recharge vessels DIY.

    I’m not if there are people out there like me using sure the Kati and Ani Ion Exchange Units. If there are maybe you have struggled to find a good holding vessel like I had for the recharge solutions.



    The recharge can get a bit messy working with Muriatic Acid and Caustic Soda, not to mention ruin clothes. In the past I have used numerous vessels to hold the solutions for recharge but, none had lasted long nor was I happy with the simplicity.

    In a recent trip to Wal Mart, found a cheap plastic gasoline can with a capacity of 2 gallons. The cost was about $3 bucks. In addition I bought a spill proof extender which
    Came with some nice plastic tubing and the Inside diameter fits snugly around the tubing used for the DI. The extension was another $3 bucks.



    After my first attempt I quickly learned the spill proof extension was not so spill proof.
    It leaked a bit with a pesky drip, might not matter if I were outside but I certainly did not want the acid dripping on the floor. I remedied this by sealing the threads with a two part quick set automotive epoxy.



    I was able to pick up at a local hardware store. The setting time was about 30 seconds.
    Here is the extension after it was sealed, I worked the epoxy into the joint by using a
    Plastic toothpick.



    To control the flow rate, I use what I think everyone does some a small plastic needle valve and airline tubing. It’s worked well to date and I am able to dial down the output fairly accurately.



    Here is the unit in operation. I elevate the gasoline can with a milk crate and garbage can turned upside down. Near the end some solution remains in the gas can, and I tilt the right side up with some PVC to drain the rest out. So far its been working well with no leaks.



    and the fill up




    blane perun
    Blane Perun www.thesea.org

  2. #2
    Moderator scubadude's Avatar
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    hey blane, for those of us that have NO clue what exactly you are doing here ( not me though ) can you please put this in laymens terminology so we can understand exactly what you are doing? I understand how a De-Ionizer works and purifys water (somewat anyway) but are you actually rechargeing the ion cartridge so it has a longer shelf life? I dont understand ....are you recirculating your tank water through those cartridges or is this water that hasnt had salt mixed into it. Sorry...im just trying to understand better

  3. #3
    Just Moved In
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    The Ion exchange works in the same fashion as a reverse osmosis unit. The objective is to remove contaminants, in this case conductive ones. The Kati and Ani are an alternative to using a RO membrane. The benefit of the RO is that it removes more from the water, both organic and conductive. The downside is the run off waste water is sometimes at a 4 to 1 ratio. I am using the DI in this application to be more cost effective, and move a bit quicker. My RO produces 50 gallon per day, It would have takes 12 days of running the water to fill these tanks. The DIY here is simply to build a vessel to handle the Muratic Acid and Caustic Soda mixtures to recharge the DI. Not a big demand project by any means. In the past I have always had poor set ups, then either cracked, or leaked.

    Blane
    Blane Perun www.thesea.org

  4. #4
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    Wouldn't a 100 gpd membrane with bulk, mixed bed DI resin be a whole lot more simple?
    http://www.BuckeyeFieldSupply.com RO and RO/DI supplies and systems.
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    200g tank w/ southdown dsb, ~150 lbs live rock, 2 Maxijet 1200, 2 x 400w MH, 2 x 165w actinic blue; 55g refugium with dsb, grape and razor, NO 40w on 12 hrs, Minijet 404; 44g rubbermaid brute sump. Iwaki 70 pump.

  5. #5
    Just Moved In
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    too much waste water for me
    Blane Perun www.thesea.org

  6. #6
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    Hydrochloric Acid

    Blane perum,

    My understanding is you need the H (a proton) from Hydrochloric acid for the resin. Are you getting enough hydrogen from the Muriatic Acid?

    I think you should get detailed about disposal of the left over material, neutralization of the chemicals before the drain (they will eat out your drain pipe). The potenical for the non-chemist to mix these 2 chemicals and get a Violent reaction.

    If the EPA or the local dept of environmental "anything" finds out you are discharging these chemicals (depending where you live) BIG trouble.

    Recharging DI is a fairly big deal. The cation and anion resins are easy to recharge, depending on the regenerate.

    Just be careful and when giving this advise, include the VERY real warnings.
    Marianne


 

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