I designed this skimmer, and not knowing much about them, want your input:
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Please let me know if this will work. Should there be any additions, subtractions or changes? All comments welcome.
Mark
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I designed this skimmer, and not knowing much about them, want your input:
![]()
Please let me know if this will work. Should there be any additions, subtractions or changes? All comments welcome.
Mark
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I think an adjustable air venturi on the intake would help a bunch . Also the inlet should run clear down to the bottom(within 1/2 inch) so as to spread apart the inlet/outlet and get more reaction time .Also make the inlet 1/2 pipe instead of 1 inch , this will increase velocity which will make more turbulance which will also increase contact time IMO.
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In this hobby patience is not a virtue,,,,,its mandatory.
Thanks. OK, so far use 1/2" pipes with the intake going to the bottom and add an air venturi. Can you describe an air venturi for me? I am assuming that it is just an adjustable air line with an air diffuser on the end?
Mark
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I'm no expert but the 1 1/2" pipe connecting the skimmer boby to the cap seems a little small. All the skimmers that I have seen have a funnel type cone that starts the diameter of the pipe (in your case 4") and ends up about half that in diameter(2")Also the reducer coupling may not be needed. Good luck and I hope it works. Let me know if you need a few diy links to skimmers.Bob
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Visit my web page: http://bobsreefermadness.homestead.com/index.html
Actually, the reducer coupling is the funnel. I do see your point and will change it.
RWD, I could use some links, but please spare me the OZREEF link. I have seen it and it doesn't help me much.
Thanks,
Mark
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[This message has been edited by MarkS (edited 07-09-2000).]
Anyone on the venturi??
Mark
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The venturi can be something as easy as a small piece of hard tube going into the inlet at an angle that goes with the flow and a small regulator valve at the other end (above the water line) that you can adjust the amount of air with. Another thought would be to put your inlet down at the bottom for a straight in approach rather than the extra bends required if you bring it in at the top.Just a thought.
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In this hobby patience is not a virtue,,,,,its mandatory.
That is what I thought a venturi was. Good idea about the inlet. Done.
Mark
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Here you go:
http://saltaquarium.about.com/pets/s...iyskimmers.htm
http://www.interlog.com/~reefs/pf.html
http://w3page.com/fishline/diy.html
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Visit my web page: http://bobsreefermadness.homestead.com/index.html
OK, here is the updated skimmer:
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So, how's this one?
Thanks for the links, RWD! They are going to be very helpful. Sorry if I seemed rude, it's just that I don't peticularly like that OZREEF site. The way that I feel about it is if you are going to offer a DIY project to the public, you should draw clear diagrams and post good quality pictures. The diagrams there look like they were drawn by a 6 year old and the pictures are fuzzy and of very low resolution. To me, quality counts.
Mark
[This message has been edited by MarkS (edited 07-09-2000).]
I just got back from Home Depot, and it looks like this is going to cost me less than $40.00!!!! [img]/ubb/biggrin.gif[/img] Add a pump and the price is still less than an equivalent MO skimmer without a pump. And I don't have to pay shipping! I hope this works. You know, it's strange. This project requires only a saw(hand saw will do) and a drill. Anyone could do it in about 2 hours. I don't understand why we pay so much at our LFS' and on the internet for this stuff. I am looking at saving over 50% of MO cost and I'm not including shipping in this estimate. Maybe one day more people will realize this and fewer people will get screwed.
Mark
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i fi were to build this as a venturi driven protein skimmer i would move the inlet up 1/3 from the bottom, and insert it off center in the reaction tube. this would cause the water to swirl around in the tube. it will also prevent air at the bottom of the reaction chamber. the out let should be at the bottom of the skimmer, not at the top.This will allow water free of air to exit the skimmer. I like to run a 1" pipe outide the skimmer with a slip fix fitting to adjust water flow. check out the air driven kimmer in the link below, this is how it is set up.
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george w.
skimmer
[This message has been edited by geo (edited 07-09-2000).]
Mark,
A few other things. How do yo plan to control the water level in the skimmer? You may need to put a gate valve on the outlet to do this.
On most venturi skimmers the venturi valve is located high in the skimmer body. This is to direct the water flow downward. This increases contact time for the air bubbles and increases efficiency.
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Visit my web page: http://bobsreefermadness.homestead.com/index.html
Actually, I was going to put a ball valve on the inlet. However, if it would be better on the outlet, then that's where it is going. I changed the input/output positions(again). The input is back at the top with a pipe going all the way to the bottom, and the output is now at the bottom.
Mark
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[This message has been edited by MarkS (edited 07-09-2000).]
Actually, I was going to put a ball valve on the inlet. However, if it would be better on the outlet, then that's where it is going. I changed the input/output positions(again). The input is back at the top with a pipe going all the way to the bottom, and the output is know at the bottom.
Mark
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Also, since bubbles are going up to the top, your outlet is better suited at the bottom with a gate valve to control the level. While you're building, you might want to consider some sort of baffle around the outlet to prevent bubbles from escaping into the water column.
Just thinking ahead, some modifications are easier done in the design/building phase than after the fact!
Hope this helps....
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Greg
gate/ball valves do work but I find them a little less than reliable. To have a skimmer self leveling is a big plus, as the water level in the skimmer will not fluctuate once set. valves work by restricting the water flow exiting the skimmer, variations in sump water level and pump output will effect the water level in the skimmer. look at the cpr and top fathom skimmers, they both use the "slip fix" fitting, it works very well.
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george w.
see my diy calcium reactor & counter current protein skimmer
geo, is this what you mean??
http://members.saltaquarium.com/marks/DIY/Skimmer2.jpeg
Mark
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yes, that is what I mean. the slip fitting would allow you to adjust the water level in the skimmer. If you are going to run you 1/2" inlet to the bottom of your skimmer you should incorporate a smaller diameter tube inside the skimmer, about 2/3 to the top, as posted earlier. this would keep the air from exiting the skimmer's output. Life reef skimmers are made this way.
i would also make the out put 1" in diameter.
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george w.
see my diy calcium reactor & counter current protein skimmer
OK, after everyone's suggestions, I came up with this:
http://members.saltaquarium.com/mark...complete).jpeg
It looks very close to several professional skimmers that I have seen and will be much cheaper. One last question, pardon my ignorance, but do I put a pump on the input AND output or just the input? What I wanted to do is just allow the output to run into the sump.
geo, a personal question. A while back, I was a member of Apple Computer's game development mailing list. On the list was an Apple employee named George Warner. His e-mail is geowar. Just a coincidence that your name is George W. and your user name is geo?
Thanks everyone,
Mark
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