Hey all, as you know I'll be upgrading to a 150 eary next year. I have use a hang on the back overflow for many years but never a built in or pvc return lines. both supply and return lines have been flex hose. I'm planning to use a Mag 12 for return(in sump)Also planning to have one overflow in the back center. Anybody know of a site that has good ideas on plumbing a tank. Here's a few questions.

1- Should I go for a 2" or 1 1/2" hole(bulkhead) at the bottom of the overflow?

2- Should I drill holes in the upper two corners of the tank to run the return lines or should I just plumb the pvc up and over the back of the tank. I'm thinkin 1/2" hole(bulkhead) in the upper right corner and one in the upper left corner. Or should they be 3/4"(bulkhead)

3- Should I go Mag 12 in sump, Mag 12 out of sump or should I go with an Iwaki....I have read that the both will produce heat.

Any other thoughts?

TIA
Mark

Hey Mark,

I thought you were going with a 120. Must have missed a post or two. Personaly I like the flex hoses for return lines. I use the black magnum return lines that go over the back of the aquarium hooked up to 5/8" clear tubing. You could use a few and manuver them around to get the best water flow.

If both pumps are going to be heat producers, you might want to go with the external Iwaki as it is not suppose to transfer the heat to the water. Especially if you go with those 400 watters above the tank [img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img]

------------------
Art
Art's Aquariums

Bringing this back up and moving it to the Tanks, Filtration & Basic Equipment forum.

Ninong [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

------------------
Irrational Exuberance!

I have a 130 with a center overflow. The way I have it set up is with both the drain and the returns plumbed in the overflow. My overflow has 3 holes drilled in the bottom. I have a 1.5" in the center for the drain and two 1" returns, one on each side of the drain. My returns are PVC'd to the top of the overflow, where they are Tee'd off for a total of four outlets, two for each return. I knocked out the teeth from the top of the box where the outlets come out. I used Kent SnapFlex for the outlets so I can adjust them anywhere I want. My pump is a Japanese Iwasaki 100RLT. These pumps are top-notch in my book. This supplies me with 2000g/h and eliminates the need for any PH's. I will warn these large pumps do come with one piece of lugage,HEAT. Since I was going with a lot of MH I opted for a chiller. This pump would still be plenty of flow for your 150. This set-up has worked out great. It gives your tank that "professional", not to mention non-cluttered look.

------------------
We as hobbyists need to respect the reef, educate and learn so that it will live on for all to enjoy.
bajathree
Come Dive Into
Baja Reef

Thanks Baja,
I will be going with 400 MH's and NO chiller so I think I'll stick with the MD40RLXT (1200 GPH) The tanks going to only be 48" long (glass) I'm affraid to drill 3 holes so close together it being a glass tank. I have time to research this one. It only took me 2 months to figure out the lighting and the tank size.

Mark

My set-up is also glass and is 48" long. I did go with a 3/4" glass bottom for the extra support. My holes are all drilled right next to eachother and I have had no problems.

------------------
We as hobbyists need to respect the reef, educate and learn so that it will live on for all to enjoy.
bajathree
Come Dive Into
Baja Reef

Ninong,
That it 48x24x30. I did read your post... What's the deal with the Durso stand pipe? I have never seen one. is it just a reg. stand pipe with a different drill pattern?

Golfish,
Check out http://www.reefcentral.com/diy/durso...ow/Default.htm for information on the Durso Overflow.

------------------
Remember...Wherever you go...There you are.

It sounds like it will really quiet down the overflow. I'm no so sure that's such a good idea in this household[img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img] We've always had a tank with a noise overflow (10+ years)Everytime we go camping we have to camp on a river or stream so we feel at home....don't know if we could handle the silence[img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img]

Golfish ~

Here, check out Rich Durso's entire site. Also, he updated the Durso Standpipe section just this month. http://www.rl180reef.com/frames.htm

You're hoping to get by with two 400w 6500K Iwasaki's without a chiller? Hmmm... can that be done? I'm trying to avoid a chiller myself... in fact I am going to avoid a chiller no matter what. Because of the fact that I do NOT want to use a chiller, I am leaning away from the 400w 6500K Iwasaki's for a couple of reasons:

1. They run very hot and very yellow. They seem to be more yellow looking than the 250w size.

2. Because they are so yellow, I believe that 2x110w VHO actinics would not be enough to balance out the yellow color. I think it takes 4x110w VHO actinics to kill the yellowish/greenish appearance of 400w Eyes.

Actually, in my case, I would be limited to the 95w size VHOs. So, right now at least, I am considering 250w 6500K Iwasaki's on IceCap ballasts with 2x95w VHO actinics... or, I might actually go with 250w 10,000K HQI dbl-endeds or 250w 13,000K HQI dbl-endeds. The advantage here is that they have more PAR than the 250w Iwasaki's without any of the yellowish color. They also run cooler and require little or no actinic supplementation... it's more or less just for dawn/dusk effect and to add some fluorescence.

What are you planning in the way of lights (total) that you think you can make work without a chiller?

Ninong [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

------------------
Irrational Exuberance!

I will tell you what I did with my returns . You may like the idea. I ran a hard PVC line from the back top down to the bottom inside . I then tee'd the line and ran the full length - a couple inches each end.In that line (I used 3/4 as I only have a mag 7 for circulation) I placed (2) reducing 90's( 3/4X1/2) with the outlet pointing towards the front,1 at each end. I then extended them to the desired position in the tank . Up to this point all joints were glued.I then put 90 degree fittings on the end of the pipe but did not glue them.You could also use 45 degree fittings if you desire.In the end of the fittings you then place short pieces of pipe just long enough to reach the top of the sand bed.You can then rotate the fittings to aim the flow in any direction you want . When you are satisfied with everything you put your sand bed on top of it and then you dont see anything except the pipe in the back , which you can hide with LR and coraline .On the pipe in the back , right at the water line (maybe a 1/32 of an inch above) drill a small hole . This will act as a siphon break should the pump stop . A check valve would also work , but it causes alot of restriction. In sizing the pipe I was told that each time the diameter doubles , the capacity quadruples ,so I interpet this to mean a 1 inch return can supply 4 - 1/2 inch outlets .For what its worth.TBT.

------------------
In this hobby patience is not a virtue,,,,,its mandatory.
Jim's Marine Links

[This message has been edited by the_blue_tuna (edited 12-27-2000).]

sounds like a spraybar. I love spraybars on the bottom but if not done right you will flood your floor. Mine goes from under the tank up through the overflow box. Up to the top 2 90 elbow to make ti go back down bulkeheaded out of the bottom of the box. 1/4" hole on one plane. I have 2_ 1/4" hole for antisiphen in the 90. The high power pressure pump 1190gph keeps the holes clean. A better way would be having a nozzel bulkhead out of the top 90 so it would be the best antisiphen. I've seen set ups like this that have had good succes but seen many fail cuz antisiphens were to small and clogged or the pump didn't have enough pressure to keep it clean or the user didn't check if they were clean. A good pump that keeps it self cleaning is the best. In wide tanks its really good for circ.Whatever you do don't glue the plumbing in the overflow box. press fit is best for maintance.My standpipe is 1 1/2" I ran it @1/2 to the top and 1/2" below the standpipe I drilled 3-4 holes @3/8"? forget exactly but it reduces the noise alot and if anything gets in it goes strait to sump. Duraso can get clogged. If you have the $$ for replacement bulbs I would get hqi. My 2_250w Iwaski with 2_110vho looks the same as just 2_10k. So I can run 4_110vho actinic if I was worred about it being blue. Iwaski is the bulb of choise for me. most ten k lose spectrium after @8mo?? Whatever Iwaski last 2x as long and is 1/2 the price. I would get the 400w cuz thats what you want. If you don't you will regret it deep inside but with 30"wide you will still have area you can shade if needed.shrooms ect...

[This message has been edited by Ironreef (edited 12-28-2000).]

Golfish ~

Is this tank going to be 48" x 30" x 24"H ? I think I remember somebody putting up those dimensions recently... was that you? [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

Anyway, check out my tank's specs and equipment, pump, etc. and see what you think? http://www.reefland.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/000385.html#0

I narrowed my choice of pumps down to the Iwaki or the Dolphin, and settled on the Dolphin (after I got Joaco to do the beta testing for me [img]/ubb/lol.gif[/img] ).

Ninong [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

------------------
Irrational Exuberance!

I'm going w/ a similar setup for my 135. I have the hole drilled at 2.25 inches and the bulkhead will accomodate a 1.5 inch standpipe. I have a MagDrive1200 that I will go external on. My return will "feed" 2 3/4" SeaSwirls. I'll be setting this up over the next week or two. If you'd like, I could let you know how it goes.

------------------
Remember...Wherever you go...There you are.

Ninong,
[img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img] Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, did I say 400 watt Iwasaki's!![img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img] I have asked the question a few times and 3/4 of the ppl who reply say it can be done, and, they do it. I don't plan to run Iwasaki bulbs but then again I may. I may also consider 250's but I still don't want to run Iwasaki's unless my 4x55 watt PC's can wipe out that awful yellow...Anyway, as of now I'm planning 400 watt 10K Ushio bulbs....never know!! I still have a few more months before I even order the tank and stand.....thanks for the ideas and you can bet I'll keep close watch on your new tank[img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img]

Mark

------------------
Tank site is still under constuction.
http://members.aol.com/golfish49/index.html

Golfish ~

I thought you said Iwasaki's, maybe that was someone else??? [img]/ubb/confused.gif[/img] And is your tank 30"H or 30"W ?

I kinda like the 400w 10,000K Ushio bulbs, too. I wonder if they're still actually 10,000K? I believe these are the ones Sanjay Joshi tested in his comparison of MH bulbs for PAR and spectral analysis. I think the 250w size he tested was the Ushio 10,000K dbl-ended. I was checking out some AB-Aqualine metal halide bulbs and found out that all of their AB 10000 bulbs are actually 13,000K (the dbl-ended and mogul). So I wonder how the Ushio 250w 10,000K HQI dbl-ended bulbs compare with the AB 10000 HQI dbl-ended bulbs which are 13,000K ???

One of the fixtures I am considering comes with AB bulbs because it is an AB-Aqualine fixture, but I guess I could switch the bulbs later on to Ushio.

My take on the bulb dilemma is that 2x250w 6500K Iwasaki's, if run on IceCap ballasts, pretty much equal 2x400w 10,000K Ab-Aqualine 10000 mogul based bulbs when it comes to PAR and intensity. And I think these could be balanced aesthetically with only 2x110w VHO actinics, right???

However, if you bite the replacement cost bullet and go with Ushio 250w 10,000K HQI dbl-endeds (the ones Sanjay tested), they are equal to, or even slightly better than, the 250w 6500K Iwasaki's--this is hard to pin down for two reasons: 1. Sanjay didn't test the Iwasaki's on an IceCap ballast, and 2. He didn't test the HQI bulbs with the required UV shield. Had those two factors been different, maybe the Iwasaki would test with more PAR than the HQI dbl-ended???

Let me know if you make up your mind. It took me months to finally decide between glass and acrylic. [img]/ubb/rolleyes.gif[/img] I hope it doesn't take me that long to make up my mind on the lights, too.

Ninong [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

------------------
Irrational Exuberance!

Originally posted by Ninong:
Golfish ~
I narrowed my choice of pumps down to the Iwaki or the Dolphin, and settled on the Dolphin (after I got Joaco to do the beta testing for me [img]/ubb/lol.gif[/img]

Dolphin ST1200 (titanium model, the blue one) is what you want [img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img]
VERY cool pump (ok, pun intended [img]/ubb/biggrin.gif[/img] )

Joaco


------------------
My webpage Updated 14th September 2000

Ninong,
Icecap Ballast! Bite's your tounge! I want something that works[img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img] PFO all the way for me. The tank will be 24" tall and 30" wide. GLASS for sure (I think) I put up a post on the HQI bulbs and ballats. Not any good replys on them.


Joaco,
Hi buddy, Yeah, I'm not sure on the pump either. Lots and lots of ppl like the Iwaki's

[This message has been edited by golfish (edited 12-28-2000).]

Originally posted by golfish:
Lots and lots of ppl like the Iwaki's

Sure, but the Dolphin Titanium model is new, so not many people are using them (yet!)

I was going to buy the Iwaki as well, and Ninong told me to try the Dolphin (Titanium model) before I made the final choice. I'm glad he did!

I saw, heard, and touched Sole's Iwaki external pump. I did the same with the Dolphin Titanium. I bought the Dolphin [img]/ubb/wink.gif[/img]

Do some asking at the BBs, see if someone has the Dolphin ST series pumps, and ask them to compare them to an Iwaki. Then decide (and please let us know) [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

Joaco

------------------
My webpage Updated 14th September 2000

Golfish ~

Yeah, I think 30" wide and 24" high would be nice! But there ya go scaring me on the Ice Cap ballasts... do you think they are really that unreliable? They seem to test so nice when they work. PerryinCA doesn't seem to have any problems with his and I believe Bajathree is happy with his. I know LarryM is unhappy with his, but maybe he just got unlucky, or maybe they fixed them by now. [img]/ubb/confused.gif[/img]

Oh, well, I'm also seriously considering 250w 10,000K HQI dbl-endeds. I sent e-mails to AB-Aqualine in Germany (in English) and Giesemann in Germany (in German -- ain't babel grand!) and received replies from both--in English from AB-Aqualine and in German from Giesemann. Turns out that AB-Aqualine claims you can order ANY of their German fixtures through Champion Lighting. Perry seems to disagree (he thinks only some of them are available) but he did give me a price on a 48" AB-Aqualine Aquaspacelight with 2x250w 10,000K HQI dbl-ended & 2x24w Osram blue PCs--with built-in electronic ballasts for HQI & PC--of $909. I'm trying to compare that with the Giesemann System 260 Moonlight that has the 250w HQI, actinic fluorescents & the computer controlled moonlight, but so far I haven't received an actual price from their U.S. rep in New York. He's supposedly going to have one of their 'retailers' get in touch with me tomorrow. Hmmm... [img]/ubb/rolleyes.gif[/img]

Ninong [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

------------------
Irrational Exuberance!