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#1 |
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I'm thinkin of using one of these on my new tank. Tell me what you think of this. I will be using a Dolphin Amp Master 3000 for return. Tee off behind the tank and run the two PVC lines up and over next to each overflow down about 2/3 of the way in a loop. Guess what I'm saying is it will look like a square U with a bunch of holes drilled in it facing different directions. I hope I made myself clear on this.
TIA Mark |
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#2 |
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The biggest issue with these is that they clog sometimes. So they need to be acessible to clean. Use at least 1/2" pvc
------------------ I have the mind of a 5 year old and own a fire extinquisher you cant imagine the things i do. |
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#3 |
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Golfish,
I have a 5’ spray bar for the output of my return pump. It is fed from both ends and has ¼” holes in it at 6” intervals. It is made out of ¾” schedule 40 PVC. You can see a diagram of my plumbing system on my WEB site. Regards, Scott ------------------ The definition of an expert is a washed-up drip under pressure. You can see my reeftank at http://www.homestead.com/spasse/ |
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#4 |
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If you use 1/4' hole and a strong pump it won't clog. Depending on your set up you MAY need antisiphen holes.If it hok to the MAIN line you will. They need to be 1/4" also and I would do 2 one for back up. A strong pump will keep them clean .If not you will drain your tank to the lowest point of the spraybar.Get it? I have on on the bottom never had a prob but the 2 1/4" antisiphen holes are self cleaning but I check them often well monthly. The high pressure pump is the only effective way to use a spraybar.
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#5 |
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Scott How far above your Deep sand bed do you run your spraybar?
Schottman [img]/ubb/spineyes.gif[/img] |
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#6 |
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Its going to be a 1.5"PVC spray bar going almost down to the sand(6" from the top of the sand). The holes will be drilled so it won't blow on the sand.....PVC is cheap so I can change as I go.
Iron, I plan to drill hole up and down as well as side ways so there will be lots of siphone breaks.... keep the ideas flowing....I am Mark |
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#7 | |
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Quote:
Sounds like it should work good. I would make it so you can hide it . [This message has been edited by Ironreef (edited 02-14-2001).] |
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#8 |
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Mark,
If I understand correctly your spraybar is going to be quite short as spraybars go.It would be my suggestion in that case to put in a series of nipples (3-4 inches long)and couplings.In the nipples drill holes about 5/16 or 3/8 in diameter , then assemble them , one ontop of the other with couplings but not gluing them.You will have the option of fine adjusting the flow in your tank after all the rock is in place .They will fit very tight but you can still turn the individual fittings to direct the flow where you want it.I agree with Iron , put two 3/16 or 1/4 inch holes just below the water level, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch .This will keep the water that can flow back to the sump at a minimum and also help with surface agitation = better gas exchange. ------------------ In this hobby patience is not a virtue,,,,,its mandatory. Jim's Marine Links |
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#9 |
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I love my spraybar system. It gives a nice gentle current that is found at all levels in the tank. I have 2 bars as you can see because I wanted to be sure that I had nice flow over the sandbed. You can still get a strong current if you need it by setting your coral close to the bars on the LR. Hope you get some ideas from my site.
------------------ www.atlasreef.homestead.com [This message has been edited by Salty Dog (edited 02-15-2001).] [This message has been edited by Salty Dog (edited 02-15-2001).] |
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#10 |
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#11 |
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Schottman,
My spray bar runs only along the top. This also takes care of the "anti-siphon issue" I use power heads for “lower level” circulation. I have a diagram on my web site. Using an internal pump to power something like Salty Dog uses is another approach. Regards, Scott ------------------ The definition of an expert is a washed-up drip under pressure. You can see my reeftank at http://www.homestead.com/spasse/ |