Ninong, I paid 13.20 for the fan and gaurd complete. 41dB @ 102CFM each. I have only seen post of IC fans for 60.00, and never reaserched them, and dont want to even at 42.00.
http://hosfelt.com/Fans/115vac.htm
115 VAC Low Noise Boxer® Fan and plastic gaurd. I have (4) of them and they are of good quality. I will have 52.80 total and push 408 cfm through my hood. I will have to wire this to a plug or connection device. Mine will be wired directly into my PLC and controled by that both for on/off or if I so desired by varible speed and temp. Being what I consider non-electrical minded I would guess that I might have another 10 bucks in a temp probe to give feedback to the PLC, the PLC will vary my fan speed.

I still say that just becasue its more doesnt make it better. [img]/ubb/smile.gif[/img]

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Paul C
The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Einstein

SEABUZZ where can I find those $24.00 ballasts.

Now now Ninong and Ltspd play nice [img]/ubb/biggrin.gif[/img]

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Jim - GO HOGS GO!
Visit my NEW Reef Page -
http://razorbackfan.topcities.com

Well, I just upgraded from a 400 watt 10K Blueline bulb to a 400 watt 10K Ushio bulb today. I have good news and I have bad news.

The good news: The Par on my old Blueline (I've been running it for 6 months) was apparently rather low. Once I installed the Ushio I noticed an immediate difference. The brightness of the Ushio bulb made the tank seem to have 50-75% more light. MAN is it bright.

The bad news: First of all, although it's mostly clear, it doesn't seem as "clear white" as I thought it would be (Could be I have a little plankton in the water, though). Has a VERY light tinge of yellow. Oh, and yes, I bought the bulb new.

The really bad news: I came home, and after having it installed and running the first day for 11 hours, I noticed a lot of bubbles on some of the things near the top. I even noticed that, within a few brown coral polyps was a small patch of CYANOBACTERIA!!!!! I've heard that this can happen with a lighting upgrade, but I had no idea it could happen so quickly. Lucky for me, it's mainly the byproducts right now. (Oxygen), but I'm really scared after knowing what happened long ago "before" the Blueline when I was running LOA lights. Now, I have two theories about this. First, is that the Ushio doesn't have "as much" blue as the Blueline, therefore the Cyano is showing its ugly head because of the lack of blue wavelength. Two, this is a natural process because a lot of lower light things are dying off now because of the increased light. Whatever the case, all I have to say is HELP! I don't want a repeat of what happened with my LOA lights!!!! What can I do? I thought about lowering the light to 6 hours for a couple of weeks since this Ushio is "obviously" 50% as bright, then slowly upping the light cycle an hour at a time, but I'm not sure. Any comments would be welcome.

Brent

razorbackfan,
I got mine through graybar electric. I have heard of some people who have gotten them from Grainger but I called there first and they didnt have the # and were too lazy to call advance.

Damn this is a long thread good thing Iam impatient and just skipped to the last page but by those pictures Iam damned lucky they gave me the 250w dl's they look really white....

hey RBF

did you find out if the company dealt with the public? or do you got a list of distributors for the bulb who won't try to whodoya and give you the wrong bulb?

Why is it after a guy reads a six page thread on lighting as he considers what to light his new tank with, he jus twalks away more informed but still undecided. I wish we had more places to go view bulb combinations at LFS here in the pacific NW

Schottman

[img]/ubb/spineyes.gif[/img]

RazorBack, here is a link to a MO ballast place that is cheap http://www.lightbulbs4sale.com/Light...ideballast.htm
Any electrical supply house will have them or can get them and all towns pretty much have a place like this just under diffrent names. Graybar is pretty big chain so you may have one of those.
Schottman, I agree!!! the more you read the more informed you are and the more confused you are as to what to do [img]/ubb/lol.gif[/img] I will be using (2)250w Iwasaki's and (1)175w mh something along with (4)110w VHO's on my future tank. My only varible is what 175w bulb to use (I am limited) and what VHO tubes to use (probally 03's).
But hey what a interesting thread(s).

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Paul C
The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Einstein

Hey Jim,

You may be able to just remove your 400 watt ballasts from your current casing and pop in some 250W ballasts (basically replace the transformers and capacitors). Any lighting supply store sells them. Mercury Vapor ballasts are a little cheaper but will limit you to ONLY Iwasaki bulbs (this works fine). If you decide you don't like them it's a simple matter of putting the 400W transformers back in and changing your bulbs back.

Here are some links that might help:

This one explains about the different types of Iwasaki bulbs. One type is made for aquarium use (the DL designation) and one is for industrial warehouse lighting.
http://www.reefs.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/014290.html

These two threads detail cheap MV ballasts. If you don't have a Greybar in Fayetteville, just about any lighting supply store sells them or can get them for only just a little more than Greybar.
http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin...?threadid=7129

And

http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin...?threadid=8508

Hope this helps,

--Colin


[This message has been edited by Colin (edited 02-04-2001).]

Thank you and welcome to reefland!

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Jim - GO HOGS GO!
Visit my NEW Reef Page -
http://razorbackfan.topcities.com

Yer welcome! Let me know how it turns out. I did one 250W Iwasaki+MV ballast with 2 95W VHO Actinics on my tank and it's awesome.

--Colin

Anyone knows if there is any 400W electronic ballast apart from the CSL????

awesome thread!

I have read it a couple of times now. I am a little dizzy, but smarter for having read. I think?



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Doug

"Wait a minute. There's no Shamus McCloud in North Kilt Town" Homer

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