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  1. #1
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    Need some lighting advice

    Hello all,

    As you can see from my sig, I currently have three 20-watt NO flourescents on my 29g FOWLR. These bulbs all came with the aquarium, which I got used. I've been running them for a little over 4 months, but I have no idea how long the previous owner had been running them. There are actually 4 bulbs in the canopy, but I still haven't gotten around to splitting the wires on one of the ballasts, so I can only run three at a time right now.

    Anyway, I've been thinking that it would be a good idea to go ahead and split the wires on the one ballast, and buy four new bulbs, so I am dealing with more of a known quantity when it comes to lighting.

    I'm limited to using 20-watt, 24" T-12 NO flourescents, but other than that, I have no idea what I should get. Can anyone provide me with some suggestions? I'd like my lighting to be able to support some mushrooms and low-light soft corals, but I'm not sure if that is even possible with my limitations.

    I can't afford to change anything other than the bulbs right now, so please don't tell me I should upgrade to VHO or MH!

    Thanks in advance.
    29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny

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    Quote Originally Posted by tussinhead
    I'm limited to using 20-watt, 24" T-12 NO flourescents, but other than that, I have no idea what I should get. Can anyone provide me with some suggestions? I'd like my lighting to be able to support some mushrooms and low-light soft corals, but I'm not sure if that is even possible with my limitations.

    I can't afford to change anything other than the bulbs right now, so please don't tell me I should upgrade to VHO or MH!
    Sorry.... FOWLR it is. I would not recommend you add any corals with only NO output lighting. I guess a good analogy would be to take you out in the forest and have you compete for food with an OWL, or bat something equipped for LOW light. You would lose and eventually starve to death. Same thing for corals, they are built for HIGH amounts of light, you take that away and they will slowly starve and die... Just think of where these creatures come from, and how quickly we get SUNBURN when we go there!
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  3. #3
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    I am very new to saltwater setups, but have been researching the lighting questions for a while now. I would have to agree with Poseidon (very cool name by the way). I have been told at the LFS that anyone can have mushrooms and some LPS without any special lighting, but my first coral, a green torch, is under 260 watt PC's in a 75 gallon tank and I'm not convinced that it is enough. Even mushrooms around here at the LFS go for 40 bucks a piece for very small ones. At those prices I would rather use the money initially to upgrade to better lighting, than risk slowly losing them. I have only had my JBJ 260 watt PC for about a month now, but I am already thinking of selling it and moving up to Metal Halides when I can afford it. In the mean time, I don't think I will risk many more Corals to this lighting. I paid 55 bucks for the torch. I could be wrong about why it is doing poorly, but the $$$ add up quick. I'm going for equipment first and livestock 2nd from now on. Good luck with it whatever you decide!

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    Thanks for the replies, guys. Okay, so I guess corals are out of the question. I still would like some suggestions on which kind of NO bulbs I should get. I guess I need to pick 4 bulbs, in some combination of the following kinds:

    1) Coralife Trichromatic: Simulates daylight and enhances the natural beauty of the inhabitants. 6,500° K full-spectrum with Trichromatic phosphors for essential biological and chemical balance. Ideal for freshwater, marine, and reef aquariums.

    2) Coralife 10,000°K: Simulate the mid-day tropical sun with this high intensity lamp! Ideal for saltwater, reef, and freshwater aquariums! 10,000° K.

    3) Coralife High Intensity 20,000° K: The 20,000° K lamp is a high intensity, purified- daylight lamp. It simulates the deeper ocean environment with its sparkling blue daylight rays. Can be used in freshwater tanks.

    4) Coralife Nutri Grow: Nutri Grow is a full-spectrum light which stimulates plant growth and brings out the natural beauty in your fish and plants. The Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamp provides aquatic plants with the light energy necessary to stimulate lush growth. The lamp has a full-spectrum, high-intensity output in the appropriate wavelengths to promote photosynthesis. The high intensity and dependable long life provides high output in the appropriate wavelengths to promote plant growth.

    5) Coralife Magtinic Bulbs: An Actinic 03 bulb that's fantastic for reef tanks! Built-in reflector, 180° output. 7100° K.

    6) Coralife Actinic Blue: An excellent straight Actinic 03 blue lamp! Great for plants and invertebrates. 7,100° K.

    7) Actinic White: Contains both Tri-Brand and actinic phosphors for excellent color rendition. 12,000°K color temperature mixed with actinic radiation provides the realistic-looking and life-supporting system necessary for marine life. Great for all types of applications! Features 180° internal reflector.

    What would you guys pick?
    Last edited by tussinhead; 11-24-2004 at 03:06 PM.
    29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny

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    I can only say that I tried various combinations with the NO fixture I had, and also with this JBJ setup I have now. I am now using 2 Blue actinics and 2 10,000*K bulbs. This combination seems to bring out the colors of the fish very nicely as long as the water isn't cloudy. It has a light blue tint to it that looks great when the water is clear, but seems to intensify the effect of any type of cloudiness if the water isn't crystal clear. Overall, I am happy with the combination. I don't really know much about the other ones though, they may be even better. I think its mostly a matter of personal preference with the ones you have listed. Without knowing any better, I once used 2 household 4ft flourescent bulbs with my 55 gallon freshwater tank. Caused an algea explosion of dramatic proportions. Ugly brown slimy stuff. Didn't really know what had caused it until I had switched to saltwater and started reading these forums..
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    Thanks, Riptide. Anyone else have a suggestion?
    29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny

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    Personally I like the Actinic White and Actinic 03 together... but like Riptide said it is really a matter of personal preference...
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    Unhappy

    I have a question, I have read most of the FAQ surrounding LIGHTING. I am putting together a 40L and need some help with lighting. IF WATTS is not to be considered, then what is? I am currently working on a hood with which I am putting in 3 fluorescent Power-Glo, Marine-Glo, and a Life-Glo. I am mostly doing fish, but will have a few( if possible ) corals. Will this combo work?

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    It is not the WATTS it is the LUMENS... Or in case of MH it is PAR.... I would avoid Normal Output bulbs all together, no sense spending money on something you will end up replacing anyway. I would suggest any of the High output Flourescents like VHO, PC, or T5.... it really comes down too personal preference and budget. Personally I like th elook or appearance of VHO better then PC, I have NOT seen a t5 tank in person, but the pictures I see online have looked nice.
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    Okay. I went ahead and ordered my new bulbs!

    I got one each of the following bulbs:

    AquaSun: Achieves a wide spectrum color rendition which greatly enhances the colors of tropical and marine fish. The unique blend of Tri-Brand phosphors provides the additional color temperature needed for your mini-reef system, and it is a great light for deep tanks or for shallow water corals. Features 180° internal reflector. 5,200°K.

    Coralife Magtinic Bulbs: An Actinic 03 bulb that's fantastic for reef tanks! Built-in reflector, 180° output. 7100° K.

    Coralife Nutri Grow: Nutri Grow is a full-spectrum light which stimulates plant growth and brings out the natural beauty in your fish and plants. The Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamp provides aquatic plants with the light energy necessary to stimulate lush growth. The lamp has a full-spectrum, high-intensity output in the appropriate wavelengths to promote photosynthesis. The high intensity and dependable long life provides high output in the appropriate wavelengths to promote plant growth.

    Actinic White: Contains both Tri-Brand and actinic phosphors for excellent color rendition. 12,000°K color temperature mixed with actinic radiation provides the realistic-looking and life-supporting system necessary for marine life. Great for all types of applications! Features 180° internal reflector.

    I hope this works out! Thanks again for the advice all!
    29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny

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    I received and installed my new bulbs. They look great, and I cannot believe how much of a difference new bulbs make!
    29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny

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    Pics please
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    but my first coral, a green torch, is under 260 watt PC's in a 75 gallon tank and I'm not convinced that it is enough. Even mushrooms around here at the LFS go for 40 bucks a piece for very small ones. At those prices I would rather use the money initially to upgrade to better lighting, than risk slowly losing them. I have only had my JBJ 260 watt PC for about a month now, but I am already thinking of selling it and moving up to Metal Halides when I can afford it.




    It sounds like you purchased the CoraLife AcquaPro w/4 -65Watt bulbs. I went one step up and purchased the 96 Watt version (w/the night light). I have a similiar sized tank (72 gAL) and similiar objectives - softies to start out.

    I was under the apparent false impression that I would be able initially (with low to moderate light requirement soft corals) to be able to operate the light unit with only two 96 watt bulbs (one 10K and the other the blue actinic). My theory was that I would save bulb life/heat by not using more than I needed. I understand that MH is the way to go if you want to have a wide variety of reef life - but frankly I did not want the expense, heat or bulky size of MH. For that reason I went the PC route, I had read that PCs have nearly double the light intensity of traditional VHO. Then again, nearly everything that I have read in this hobby from one source has been contradicted by another.

    My question boils down to: Is 192 watts of PC 10K/actinic sufficient for low to moderate light requirement softies?

    I'd appreciate it if you could also share what skimmer you are using on your set-up. Thank you for your help.


 

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