What you don't know could cost you

[dsb1829]

Okay, I was poking around today looking for information on power consumption for my tank components. I have been having some problems and have been severely overdriving a couple circuits in our appartment. So for our new tank I am doing some homework to make sure I naver have to come home to a tripped breaker.

How you ask is this costing you? Well that isn't. But here is the interesting part. I was on the PFO lighting website and found some rather interesting information on the power draw of their ballasts. It turns out that some of their ballasts can draw a considerable amount more amperage than you would expect. Check out page 9 of their catalog (http://www.pfolighting.com/aqwebsite...qcatFALL00.pdf ).

It turns out that both EYE and HQI ballasts that they sell can draw more current in the 250w version than their 400w counterparts. I don't know why and haven't had a chance to fire them and e-mail. I just found this very interesting since many are jumping on the 250w HQI bandwagon in hopes of saving on electricity. If you are running it on a PFO ballast this may not be the case. A single 250w EYE ballast is capable of pulling almost 7 amps according to this . That is 1/3 of the breakers limit right off the bat.

I hope you find this as much of a shock as I did.

[golfish]

Just look at thr bright side. You won't have to spend so much on heating during the long winter months. You can fry an egg on my dual PFO HQI ballast.

The 250watt HQI 10k bulbs put out more light than most 400 watt bulbs, the exception being the Iwasaki, but you need to use a lot of actinic supplement to offset the butt ugly color from the 400 watt Iwasaki.

Mark

[Ltspd]

This is more than likely start up amp draw. Any electrical device typically pulls more amprage at start up than at running speed. Most motors pull almost 2x the running amps to start, and the same probally applies to lights (any type).

[tubs]

Hey Doug,

Ltspd is prolly right. The ballasts need some extra juice to get the bulbs fired but settle down afterwards. I do remember some references to actual data but it's been a while and don't remember where to point to.

[PerryinCA]

Startup amperage is actually the only real difference in a HQI lamp, and a MH. I don't know about the MV though.

I agree, its probably just the startup amps.

-Perry

[dsb1829]

I don't dissagree with that argument at all. I would like to do a bit more digging on the subject to check it out. It just sparked my interest so I figured I would share. I will have to e-mail them a bit later and see what they have to say about the different #'s.

The other thing that bothers me is that the 250w eye has a higher maw than the 400w eye. Could be that someone messed up the table when inputing the data.

I am in the middle of planning out my wiring for the new 180g tank. It is hard to get all of the juice that is needed off of appartment circuitry. It is sucks to have to leave a circuit half occupied because of the initial draw of firing the halides. Imagine three HQI 250w on the same circuit. There is the possibility that they could trip the breaker without any other devices on the circuit, granted not likely but possible. I am refering to a typical cheepo 20A breaker that our typical appartment has.

[Ltspd]

In your digging you might see FLA = Full Load Amps. This is the start up amp draw.

[golfish]

This might shock you I run a dual HQI ballast, a 400 watt ballast a 220 watt PC ballast, Amp Master 3000. Mag 12, Mag 9, Mag 2, Two 1" Sea swirls, 4 fans, a ceiling fan, my PC and a few other things in the den on a 15 amp circuit.........

:eek3: No wonder I have kicked the breaker on the circuit twice in the last 4 months. I have been thinking about running the HQI's on another circuit but I would have to use some kind of extension cord. Hmmmmmmm, maybe you guys have some ideas?

[Ltspd]

Mark,
I would run seaperate lines for your tank items with nothing else on the circuit. If you have tripped the breaker a few times it weakens the capacity of the breaker itself. Meaning, it becomes easier and easier to trip the breaker until the breaker completely fails.

Do you and your family a favor, run a new line (s) for your tank with out anything else on it. (tv, lamps, etc....) I would even go so far as suggesting that you have one GFCI line for your lights and the other line for the rest.

I have (2) 20a lines run for the tank only. I have things (or will have) things balanced between both lines.

[PerryinCA]

Doug,

I don't know if you have any interest....but the Icecap ballasts only pull about 2.5 amps at startup. I have no problem running my tank and 3 MH ballasts on top the the 660.

They have performed great with the HQI.

Just a thought.

-Perry

PS, did you buy that oceanic from Steve? Awesome, and good price. Wish I had the cash at the moment...although a 5x2x2 150 would be a more ideal size for where its going.

[JG]

Mark,

Anyway you can convert the 15amp braker to a 20 amp?

I had the same problem. I live in an apartment and had my whole tank, bathroom, and living room on a 15 amp braker. Everytime I put the hair dryer on high, I blew the braker...lol...what a PITA that was. I finally called the maintence man and in about 10 minutes he changed the braker to a 20 amp line. I have not once blown the braker with the 20 amp line. I can even run the vacuum now in the living room while the tank is on.

[golfish]

JG,
You know I thought about it, I would think they would use the same wire for 20 amp as the do for 15 amp. I'll have to dig a little deeper into it. I have a buddy who's an electrician. I'll give him a call, He used to live here in the same townhomes

[golfish]

JG,
Anything to save a buck I just looked at all the wires and the 15 amp wires are smaller gauge then the 20 amp......

[dsb1829]

Perry, yes that is the one. I will be checking it out tomorrow, but it looks like a good deal. We actually want a 300+g tank so this is a real compromise. We just don't want to feel as cramped as we are in the 72g any time soon. Good to know on the IC. I was reading around on their site and the 660 alone can pull something like 4+ amps max (just off the cuff).

JG, that breaker swap is a very shady thing to do unless the wires are of the propper gauge to support that current. Basically if they aren't then they could get too hot and start a fire.

Thanks all for the replies, I will be doing a bit more digging on the subject over the next few days to get a better idea of what our equipment pulls. One other important point to bring up is that the standard breaker can only stand 80% load for any sustained period. That brings a 20A effectively down to a 16A.

[dsb1829]

Perry, I think I saw the Steve you are talking about. I am buying a tank from Steve. I think you were refering to the 120g in Napa. It is a great deal, but we wanted something bigger. It sucks to see stuff like that being given away. We are paying almost as much for the 180g that we are buying without the livestock or controller. But just like in engines there is no substitute for cubic inches. We need more room. Our 4' 72g is way to cramped. It just seems silly to spend $2000 and only get depth and built in overflows.