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Old 05-21-2005, 08:36 PM   #1
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Lighting My 29gal

I was wondering if purchasing the ICECAP 150 WATT H.Q.I. METAL HALIDE SYSTEM from North Coast Marine http://northcoastmarines.com/lighting.htm#MHBULBS
and using my 430 Ice Cap with 2-24 atinic VHO would be to much?


Also the link I provided has the ICECAP 150 WATT H.Q.I. METAL HALIDE SYSTEM, but it has no shield for the bulb. Give me as much info as you can.

I have 7 1/2" in. from the inside top of canope to the water is it to close for metal halide?

The tanks depth is about 16" in. to the sand bed.


I love the look of Metal Halide and VHO bulbs.
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Old 05-22-2005, 02:08 PM   #2
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Common its not that hard to give alittle advice
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Old 05-22-2005, 04:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudini
Common its not that hard to give alittle advice
Be patient, I've been outta town for a couple of days
You should be fine with what you first suggested. I believe that the DE bulbs need a shield, I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. What do you plan on growing?
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Old 05-22-2005, 04:20 PM   #4
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I was wanting to put what ever I want in it.

I would like a clam

I already have my refugium under construction with 9w PC lighting.

I am just worried about the height of the canope from the water and what I would need to have for the MH light.

I have always used VHO but love MH looks. So it makes me a MH noob
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:51 AM   #5
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What are you gonna use for a reflector?
That lite should get you where you want to go. I would take it slow tho and let your system mature before you go adding clams and such.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:27 PM   #6
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I am gonna buff out some sheet aluminum.
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:59 PM   #7
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Yes the DE bulb does need a glass shield. I would look into one of the readily available pendents for DE bulbs to use.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:53 PM   #8
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Thanx Scott. I just wasn't quite sure

Too much lawn and not enuf time!!!
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Old 05-24-2005, 10:43 PM   #9
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Here in lys the problem as you read already I only have 7 1/2" from the top inside of the canope to the water most pendants are 5" so that puts the light 2" from the water. That is not enough room!


Unless you know of a pendant that is less that 4" tall I am SOL.
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Old 05-24-2005, 10:51 PM   #10
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It's time for a renovation !!!! Is there any way you can raise it up? How bout raising the whole canopy.
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:08 PM   #11
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Well no there isn't any way to raise it not where it is located.

I thought about cuting a hole in it, but my wife would kill me.

This is the reason I have been looking at the DE's and not the mogul based.

Smaller bulbs, take up less room.


What if I got the glass shield and mounted the DE to the canope and then mounted the glass from a pendant 2 1/2" out from the bulb would that be feasable?
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:11 PM   #12
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Well if it comes to it I will just go with 4 t-5 and give up on the MH.

Imagine I had 4 24" VHO's over this 29gal originally thats 300watts!!

Maybe I will go with that again who knows just want it so I can put what ever i want in it!
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudini
Well no there isn't any way to raise it not where it is located.

I thought about cuting a hole in it, but my wife would kill me.

This is the reason I have been looking at the DE's and not the mogul based.

Smaller bulbs, take up less room.


What if I got the glass shield and mounted the DE to the canope and then mounted the glass from a pendant 2 1/2" out from the bulb would that be feasable?
I think that might be doable!!
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:21 AM   #14
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The PFO mini pendant has dimensions of: 7.5"W, 4.5"H, 12"L. The actual bulb would be a few inches further from the water (as it is up near the top of the pendant). All DE halide bulbs need to have a UV shield to prevent corals from being burned by the UV they generate. I have a friend who runs his 400W halides 2” from the water but he has a large sump located downstairs that helps to keep his water temperature 82F or below. A couple of 4” fans mounted on each end of the canopy, one blowing in and the other pulling air out should keep your tank cool enough as long as your ambient temperature stays 72F or below and your glass tank covers are removed. You will have to keep close watch on evaporation and add fresh water twice a day to keep your specific gravity stable.

HTH,
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:37 AM   #15
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I think you could use the PFO mini pendent or the SLS Reef Optix pendent and be fine. AS Kevin mentioned the bulb is mounted at the top of the pendent which is pretty "low-profile" anyway. The bottom of the pendent may be only 2" from the surface but the bulb will be 4" or so. The problem is making sure the glass stays clean on the pendent and that you can keep it cooled.
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:00 PM   #16
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Well this was trying to be a DIY thing.
The pendant is getting out of my budget.

Do you all think If i just use t5's or VHO's I can keep a clam???
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:19 PM   #17
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Why not go with a mogule based DIY light? It would be much easier since you didn't have to mess with the shield and should be pretty cheap.
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:18 PM   #18
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The problem is I only have 7 1/2" between the top of my canope and the waters edge. If you think I can go with a mogul type let me know.


Also can you run a 150 or 175 watt bulb on a 250 watt ballast without overdriving it of causing damage to the bulb or ballast?
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Old 05-26-2005, 01:18 AM   #19
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You must use a ballast rated for the bulb. You cannot mix and match different wattage bulbs and ballasts.

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Old 05-26-2005, 02:21 AM   #20
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worth a shot a friend had an extra 250watt mh ballast
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