[SouthBayPhoto]

Hey all,

I was wondering about mounting lights inside a canopy. I just bought a 90g RR tank and it's the first tank I've ever had with a canopy. The lighting system that I received with it is just a standard NO fluorescent lighting system that sits on top of the glass. It has 3 bulbs, but they are only 36" long inside of a 48" hood. The ballasts are actually inline with the electrical plugs. Kinda weird to me, but maybe that's normal. Anyway, I know this won't be enough light to run any corals in this tank, so I was thinking about buying some T5 lights and mounting them inside my canopy. Problem is, I'm not sure if that can be done (or how it's supposed to be done). The dims inside the canopy are: 48 1/2" x 13" x 4" (even though the tank is 48" x 18" x 25")

Is this enough room to actually mount some T5 lights? (enough lights to run some corals) Plus, if you buy a T5 light hood setup, do you keep them in the hood and just mount that hood up to the top of the canopy? Or do you somehow mount the bare bulbs to the top of the canopy and don't use the hood? Or do you mount a reflector to the canopy and then the bare bulbs under it? I've been trying to look for photos to see what others have done, but haven't found any yet.

Another reason I want to mount the lights to the canopy is because the current hood sits down on the glass top and I have to lift the hood/lights and the glass top together to feed the fish (well, I will have to once it's set up). That to me is a pain and putting excess strain on the glass top.

Any help or info would be truly appreciated.

Regards and Merry Christmas,
Mat

[PortWash]

It seems that we have a similar situation as I have just purchased a 90g with a canopy. T5 from my research seems to be the best setup for a stock canopy setup as MH produce a lot of heat and are normally set a 6" or more off of the water. My canopy does not provide that height as my T5's are 3 1/2" off of the water. I currently have 4 T5's on individual reflectors and am looking to try and add 1 or 2 more down the road for better coral growth. Look at Poseidon's posts he has a T5 setup.

[SouthBayPhoto]

I appreciate the info. I have seen several of his posts (great info every time), but never saw anything about the T5 setup. I'll try and do a search again.

I just didn't know if you attached the reflectors directly to the top of the canopy if it would burn the wood canopy or anything. Definitely didn't want that to happen. Looks like I'll be looking into a 4 bulb T5 retro setup.

Do you usually have your actinics come on prior to your main daylight bulbs?

[PortWash]

The reflectors have clips that connect to the bulbs thus they arent mounted to the wood(at least that is the way with my ice cap reflectors and the very few others I have seen). My bulbs all run through the same ballast and thus turn on and off together. I arranged my four bulb system with one on each outside and two together in the middle thus that left me with two spaces for two more T5's when I add those I will run a sunrise/sunset setting. Also an interesting feature with the T5's is setting up the order of the types of bulbs to create the most pleasurable viewing.

[Samper]

I have 2 4' 75 gallons and run all T5. I also maintain a 180 with all T5. I cut some acrylic strips for one and glued them to each end of the display and the lights sit directly on top of the tank. The only problem with this setup is that they tend to rust quicker than if you mounted them inside the canopy which I have done on my other 75. Most of the kits will come with the mounting hardware of some sort. My two fixtures have 2 bulbs a piece. One houses two actinics and the other has daylights. I have them on individual timers and the actinics come on an hour before the daylights and go off an hour after the daylights go off. Every two weeks I bring the back one to the front and move the front fixture to the back. If you like the hood then mount them in it for easier access. If you don't you can get a hanging fixture and hang it from the ceiling or you can get legs for some of them that sit directly on top of the tank. I prefer to not have a hood but it isn't as pleasing to the eye.

[Poseidon]

Yup I run T5 now as well! If you look here down near the bottom of page 5 you will see what I did when I switched from halides to T5's. I have also made lots of changes to the sump, and skimmer, I have a HUGE Ca Reactor that will hopefully be online soon, (waiting for the regulator) and I have added a 5th bulb for dusk till dawn effect as well.

Oh, ditch the glass tops all together, they are more trouble then they are worth. (Reduce light, inhibit gas exchange, and require constant cleaning)

[SouthBayPhoto]

Posideon - Thanks for the info and link. I'll definitely check it out. You don't have any issues with salt ruining the canopy or anything by not running the glass tops?

I guess the reason I'm asking is because on my 46 bow front, I am running an aerator in the tank and I get salt all over the glass top (above mainly because the water keeps it off the glass below). So, every week I have to take the hood off (no big deal, no canopy) and clean the salt off the glass and even wipe down the bulbs (it has no glass/plexiglass over the bulbs, just open) to get some of the salt off it.

That tank only has one hood with two bulbs...I do the dawn dusk effect with that one having my actinic run one hour earlier and later than my daylight. I want to do the same when I set up the 90 gallon lighting, but I know it needs to be WAYYY stronger. LOL

So, I figure if I could buy a 4 bulb setup and mount each reflector to the canopy top itself (wood) and then wire it up through the back, then I'd be all set. I just wanted to make sure that the reflector wouldn't get so hot as to burn the wood canopy top.

Plus, to do the dawn/dusk effect, you have to have an electronic ballast for each "set" you do that for, correct? (like if I have two actinics to do the dawn/dusk, I can put them on one ballast and my daylights on another ballast to run two different timers) That's how my 46 is setup, one ballast for each bulb (but there are only 2). Or do you have to have a separate ballast for each individual bulb?

Sorry for the millions of questions. I just reallllly want to do it right the first time instead of either A) Breaking something or burning something down. or B) Realizing my equipment isn't good enough and having to reupgrade right away. (I already did that with the protein skimmer. LOL Sent it back without even opening it to get a bigger one after reading the good info here! )

Again, thank you for everyone's replies.

[Poseidon]

Originally Posted by SouthBayPhoto

Posideon - Thanks for the info and link. I'll definitely check it out. You don't have any issues with salt ruining the canopy or anything by not running the glass tops?

Nope.

I guess the reason I'm asking is because on my 46 bow front, I am running an aerator in the tank and I get salt all over the glass top (above mainly because the water keeps it off the glass below).

Ditch the air stone and replace it with a powerhead. Corals are irritated by air bubbles, and as you see they cause a lot of salt spray that needs to be cleaned. You will get better O2 exchange with the pump moving more water across the surface then you do by putting bubbles into the tank.

So, I figure if I could buy a 4 bulb setup and mount each reflector to the canopy top itself (wood) and then wire it up through the back, then I'd be all set. I just wanted to make sure that the reflector wouldn't get so hot as to burn the wood canopy top.

If you do T5 then you are mounting an endcap to the wood, then the reflector to the bulb with clips. In this arraingement the bulb is NOT in contact with the wood.

Plus, to do the dawn/dusk effect, you have to have an electronic ballast for each "set" you do that for, correct?

Yes.

Or do you have to have a separate ballast for each individual bulb?

I have 4 bulbs on one IC660, and a single bulb on a Workhorse 5 that is my dawn/dusk bulb.

Sorry for the millions of questions.

NP, that is why we are here!

I just reallllly want to do it right the first time instead of either A) Breaking something or burning something down. or B) Realizing my equipment isn't good enough and having to reupgrade right away. (I already did that with the protein skimmer. LOL Sent it back without even opening it to get a bigger one after reading the good info here! )

Again, thank you for everyone's replies.

This is the smart way, ask lots of questions, and buy right the first time.

[SouthBayPhoto]

My 46 is actually running an air stone, two Penguin 1150 powerheads (running an undergravel filter) and just a normal mechanical filter (I believe a Tetratec PF300 if I remember correctly). I bought the Seaclone 100 skimmer to put on there, but then I went out and bought my 90 gallon tank that I wanted to set up (while the skimmer was in transit). After reading all the good info here, I realized it isn't the greatest skimmer and was probably too small for my 90 gallon. So, I'm in the process of returning it and buying a different skimmer for my 90 gallon once it's set up.

I didn't realize the reflectors sat on the bulbs instead of being mounted to the canopy, now it's makes perfect sense. Cool. Looks like I'll be going with 4 T5's. Will this allow me to have an anenome for my clown fish? My tank is 48x18x25. I'm planning on putting in about 3" to 4" of sand for a base. NOT going to run an undergravel this time.

However, I was just going to have my return flow from my sump be the water flow in the display tank. Is this not good enough? I'll be running it off a MAG-12 that I received with the tank. I'm off to Lowes right now to get the plumbing for it. I was hoping to have the return line come up from the sump, split into a Y fitting and then put one return line on each side of the tank and direct them towards the middle of the tank. That was the idea anyway.

[Poseidon]

If you do 4 overdriven then yes, an anemone should be no problem. Have you decided what T5 set you will do?

6x54W would be plenty as well, if you prefer a finished fixture.

[Poseidon]

Oh, as for flow, no I don't think that a single MAG12 will be enough. I have about 1000GPH coming from my sump in the basement, PLUS 2 Nano streams that move an additional 1000GPH each! I am planning on adding a 3rd stream as well, maybe 2. For an SPS tank 30-40X turnover is ideal.

[SouthBayPhoto]

You should know this question was comin'...

How do you "overdrive" the lights? Kind of like overclocking a processor on a computer? Is it an option to do with the ballast itself or ???

I'm not sure yet on the T5 set I wanted to get. Reason I say that is because I only have a 48" long x 13" wide x 4" deep clearance with my canopy to mount lights. The canopy does go "wider" than 13", but there is a wooden brace across the entire back (48") that is about 5" wide...so I only have 13" of width clearance to mount the lights to the top part of my canopy.

So, I don't know if a 6 light setup would be less than 13" wide with individual reflectors. If it's wider than 13" I won't be able to close the top of the canopy.

Also looks like I'm going to have to get a couple of powerheads as well, eh? LOL I take it you can just hang those inside the tank (say in the corners facing towards the middle of the tank)?

[Poseidon]

Overdriven bulbs come from IceCap ballasts. I use an IC660, it drives the 54W bulbs to 80W, increasing the output.

Here is a very nice retro kit from one of our sponsors:
https://diyreef.authsecure.com/shop/...36e982023beba2

That kit will allow you to keep pretty much any coral/clam/anemone that is available in the hobby. I use that kit myself, I only added a 5th bulb for aesthetics, and dawn to dusk. ( I run a 90, same dimensions as you.)

As for the powerheads, get a couple of Tunze NanoStreams and you will be all set.

[SouthBayPhoto]

NIIIIICEEEEE!

Thanks for the link. I've already saved it...now I just have to save up the cash for it!

The good thing is I'm not in a rush with setting up the 90. I want to make sure I have everything good to go prior to even filling it up.

Again, I appreciate the info.

Now, if I can ever quit reading the darn board and get to Lowes to get my plumbing supplies for the sump, I'll be doing alright. LOL!!!!! It's friggin' addicting here!

[Poseidon]

LOL! Yes, it is.

[SouthBayPhoto]

20 minutes later and I STILL haven't left. Okay, that's it....I have to shut the computer off. LOL!!!!!!

[SouthBayPhoto]

Originally Posted by Poseidon

Overdriven bulbs come from IceCap ballasts. I use an IC660, it drives the 54W bulbs to 80W, increasing the output.

Here is a very nice retro kit from one of our sponsors:
https://diyreef.authsecure.com/shop/...36e982023beba2

That kit will allow you to keep pretty much any coral/clam/anemone that is available in the hobby. I use that kit myself, I only added a 5th bulb for aesthetics, and dawn to dusk. ( I run a 90, same dimensions as you.)

As for the powerheads, get a couple of Tunze NanoStreams and you will be all set.

Hey there Poseidon, if you get a chance, can you check out my new post regarding the "overdriven" T5's? I forgot which post the above info was on until after I posted it. Basically I was asking if you're running four 48" T5's on an IC660, can you make 2 of the bulbs come on at a different time than the two other bulbs if you're only running one IC660? If not, would I be able to get two IC430's (one for each set of bulbs for different on/off times) and still overdrive the T5's enough for corals (as you mentioned above with the IC660)?

I checked out IceCap's website, but they don't list anything on there if it's possible to run two of the bulbs at one time and two of them at another time on one IC660, so I figured I'd ask someone that knows.

[Poseidon]

Hey Mat, no, it is all or nothing with the 660, unless you get a dimmer... (expensive electronic one.)

2 430's would allow you to do dusk to dawn AND get the bulbs overdriven. I just happened to have an unused workhorse 5 laying around for my 5th bulb.

[Reefland]

Hi Mat,

Another consideration for water flow would be the Hydor Koralia 4 pumps. They push a good amount of water and are cheaper than the Tunze.

[SouthBayPhoto]

Mike - cool. I might be able to get a local deal on two 430's. Then all I'd have to do is get the rest of the setup (reflectors, endcaps, bulbs, etc...). LOL I was just afraid that the 430's wouldn't overdrive the T5's.

Scott - Thanks for the heads up. I'll definitely have to look into both types.