[Nikki]

Ahh, I start reading in this forum and I feel like I am starting all over again from scratch :-) I have a glass cover on my tank and I just read this is undesirable as it affects the gas surface exchange. Now I understand why you all have such high evaporation rates and need ATOs I tried to find some backgound info here and could not, most likely due to my poor search capabilities. I have a Coralife PC ballast and when I have taken the glass off for a bit with the ballast up, there is a lot of splatter on the underside. I assumed this was a hazard? There is a plastic slide-in barrier on the underside.

My main reason for looking in this forum is because our weather here in MD has been quite warm lately and I noticed that my tank temp was up to 85 yesterday, ouch!!! So I turned my 10Ks off for a bit until I can find time to mitigate the issue. With only the actinics I have a temp of about 80-81. I read a lot about the little portable fans, but I need to figure out how to have cover off for this I assume? I have (not sure what proper terminology here is) what I think are 2 sets of bulbs with 2 bulbs each, 1 set of 10K and 1 set with two different wavelengths of actinic, they are 96 watters. Is the goal to maintain a constant temperature whether the lights are on or off, or to achieve a minimum delta?

I have not delved into this particular subject before so any tips, info, help is much appreciated!

[tray262]

Originally Posted by Nikki

Ahh, I start reading in this forum and I feel like I am starting all over again from scratch :-) I have a glass cover on my tank and I just read this is undesirable as it affects the gas surface exchange. Now I understand why you all have such high evaporation rates and need ATOs I tried to find some backgound info here and could not, most likely due to my poor search capabilities. I have a Coralife PC ballast and when I have taken the glass off for a bit with the ballast up, there is a lot of splatter on the underside. I assumed this was a hazard? There is a plastic slide-in barrier on the underside.

My main reason for looking in this forum is because our weather here in MD has been quite warm lately and I noticed that my tank temp was up to 85 yesterday, ouch!!! So I turned my 10Ks off for a bit until I can find time to mitigate the issue. With only the actinics I have a temp of about 80-81. I read a lot about the little portable fans, but I need to figure out how to have cover off for this I assume? I have (not sure what proper terminology here is) what I think are 2 sets of bulbs with 2 bulbs each, 1 set of 10K and 1 set with two different wavelengths of actinic, they are 96 watters. Is the goal to maintain a constant temperature whether the lights are on or off, or to achieve a minimum delta?

I have not delved into this particular subject before so any tips, info, help is much appreciated!

Hey Nikki I'm also in Maryland, I know what you mean about the weather. Can you go open top ? That would help cool the system down, if not, you may have to think getting a chiller. I don't recommend not running lights, to keep the tank cool. You may be able to cut back the time of the lights if you pets can ok with that, but not off.

Good Luck.

[Nikki]

I can go open top, I just don't know what kind of repurcussions this might have. Is it a bad thing to have the spray from the skimmer output (yes, a hang-on) splattering on the underside of the ballast?

Thanks!

[tray262]

Got a pic of the set-up, maybe there is another way of running thing. No sump/refug ?

[Nikki]

I will post a pic soon, I am actually recovering from surgery so not as mobile as I would like. I did open up the cover halfway and the temperature is 79 at night and 80 with full lighting :-)

I do not have a sump or refugium although my intention is to work my way towards this. When the kids break the bigscreen TV my husand has authorized set up of a larger tank!!!!!!

[tray262]

Not a problem, I have a Hammer, you're in Maryland, I can fix the TV issue. I'd do it for the sake of the sump.

[SouthBayPhoto]

[art_of_war]

Nikki,

Just take the glass cover off. ATO's are consequential to this hobby and no one is immune to it. It really is critical to maintain a temperature of 78-79 degrees. It's strange to be telling anyone this who is using PC lights. I myself did it for a LONG time since SPS corals never really drew my interest.

Take the glass cover off and if you have a powerhead: angle it up towards the surface of the water. This may create more "splatter" due to the rippling effect as you so deeply fear but will benefit your tank as it will improve oxygen transfer. By doing so, you'll prevent overheating of the tank and the need to install a chiller <---which incidentally, is EXPENSIVE.

People who have metal halide fixtures have their hands pretty much tied when it comes to chillers. You still have PC lights, so you're in good shape; just limited in coral selection.

[Nikki]

tray, the hammer idea is a good one!

I have upgraded my method to lifting the front half of the glass during the day and closing it at night as the evaporation rate is quite a bit and I had my salinity up to 1.029 one morning (using a refractometer)!

At this point I am progressing my tank so slow that I don't know if I will have SPS or not, I know halides are suggested for any giant clams, but I believe I will be sticking with PCs for now :-)

Thanks guys :-)

[Nikki]

Speaking of nano tanks, in the all-in-one systems you are unable to take the cover off so how is the surface gas exchange here? So far my BC14 has been fine?

[rjs5134]

Boy, this is unnecessary and unproductive.

If I had A/C I wouldn't need a chiller on my 65gal with 2x250MH's.

Anyhow, Nikki, I think you will always see a fluctuation in temp, chiller or not. I have a 2 degree fluctuation with the chiller, therefore I think the idea is to maintain as constant a temperature within reason. There are other threads in which some have experienced temps in the mid to upper 80's without major issues. If 85 is your high, I wouldn't worry too much. Definately lose the glass canopy though. Maybe you can take the front half off and leave the back in place.

Godd luck.

[charlie]

Sorry folks, I apologize, my Irish got the best of me.:slap::slap:

[SouthBayPhoto]

Nikki,

I hear ya on the evaporation. I have the same tank as you, but I did take the cover off of mine. I just run one piece of glass under my two bulb NO hood and the evaporation is pretty substantial. However, I figure it's worth it for the added O2/CO2 exchange.

Being that I live in Vegas, I definitely have to have the air on or these poor guys would cook every day during the day in the summer. Even then, it still might be a challenge to keep the water temp down to 78*F or so...but we'll see what happens this summer. <crossing my fingers>

[scubadude]

Originally Posted by Nikki

Is it a bad thing to have the spray from the skimmer output (yes, a hang-on) splattering on the underside of the ballast?

Thanks!

Nikki

I would definately address this, you have possible issues such as stray voltage, shorting out the ballast, as well as possible fire hazards. Any way you can relocate your ballast to a more secure and safer place. The ballast usually is loaded w/heat and may also help in cooling your tank to have the ballast away from the tank too.

[charlie]

Is there any way you could get a small piece of acrylic like Samper has and put it over the skimmer output? Yes, it can turn into a hazard, for you and your house, we wouldn't want that!!!