LED panels?

[Ninong]

I am going over to Spokane to see Sanjay in July and I will ask him if things are progressing in the LED field, That should be an interesting chat.

Charlie, did you ever talk to Sanjay?

[charlie]

Yep, there are a couple of posts around here. Sanjay seemed to think that even the 400w LED were the equivalent of about a 175w halide. That was back then. They may have improved since then, but maybe not. I have sent a couple of e-mails since then trying to get in touch with him, but they have gone unanswered.

[Ninong]

Just so nobody reading this thread is confused, by "400w LED" you actually mean LED panels that claim to be the equivalent of 400w metal halide lamps. The actual wattage of the individual LED emitters is very, very low.

[Ninong]

I just checked PFO's website and here is what they are claiming for their new I-5 series that was just released a couple of months ago:

NEW I-5 Series Solaris LED Illumination System

Now Manufactured in USA

The Solaris is the first LED System designed to replace Metal Halide and Fluorescent lighting for the Aquarium Reef Tanks. We started shipping the original G series in September of 2006.
In September 2008 we have finished completely redesigning the entire fixture and moved manufacturing from China to USA.
Primary Design Changes between the Chinese made G, H4, early I-4 models:
1. Made in USA with LEDs produced from Phillips Lumileds that are manufactured in Malaysia.
2. LEDS were changed from 25 K2 driven at 1000ma to 30 Rebels driven at 800 ma.
3. Drive circuit has been changed to monitor and control both current and voltage. (Patent Pending).
4. Power Supply Manufacturer has been changed and installed in a larger enclosure and drives at 24V DC.
5. All Chinese hand soldered control board, distribution boards, and LED boards have been changed to surface mount machine wave soldered in USA.
6. All mounting hardware has been changed to black oxide covered Stainless Steel.
7. Fan Guards are now cut into end plates for a better look and eliminate rust potential.
8. LCD display has been updated and has a blue background.
9. All wiring is contained in internal wire holder.
10. Acrylic Lens is designed for easy removal for cleaning.
11. USA designed packaging for UPS approved shipping.
12. All units are UPC labeled.
13. All circuit boards have latching quick disconnects for easy assembly and secure connections when shipping.
14. 100% testing and burn in for 48 hours.

The new I5 series produces PAR light output levels equal to a 400W MH 15k. It uses 40% less energy than the 400W MH 15k fixtures it replaces. The life of the LEDs is approximately 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank; therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers. The room air conditioner needs to work ½ as much since the light fixture produces only ½ the heat of Metal Halides which saves even more energy over traditional lighting methods.

There is a built in microprocessor that controls the I5 series Solaris. This not only eliminates timers, but it allows the unit to dim the actinic blue LEDs, white LEDs, Lunar actinic blue LEDs and Lunar White LEDs independently from 0-100%. This dimming capability opens many opportunities. The light can be adjusted from 6.5K to 22K, or anywhere in between, to set the ideal color temperature. Sunrise, Daylight, Cloud Cover, Sunset, and the lunar cycle, can all be set independently.

Coral Growth has been outstanding with the new lights. There is excellent water penetration of the light.

P.S. -- On their website, they say that the new I-5 series is 2.5 times as bright as the original G series.

P.P.S. -- Here is another opinion of the new Solaris I-5 series from someone who is actually selling them. His claims are not as ambitious as PFO's but he does think highly of the product, which is to be expected.

Following is the ad copy that Marine Depot is using in their product description for the new Solaris I-5 luminaires. Note that they do NOT compare them to 400w metal halides. They compare them to 250w 20,000K metal halides, which are inadequate as stand-alone lighting for most reef tanks other than the smaller sizes. They don't tell you which brand of 250w 20,000K metal halide lamps they are equivalent to. PAR measurements on 250w 20,000K metal halide lamps vary from brand to brand and even from ballast to ballast. When they say that coral growth has been outstanding, they don't tell you the height of the tank they are lighting. The only honest comparison would be to stick a PAR meter 18" beneath the Solaris fixture and see if that PAR measurement equals that of the best 250w 20,000K metal halide lamp running on the appropriate ballast. Maybe we could get Sanjay to measure one of the Solaris I-5 fixtures, assuming he could get his hands on one without having to buy it.

Description 72 inch 14000K Solaris LED Lighting Fixture

Made in the U.S.A.

The Solaris is the first LED System designed to replace Metal Halide and Fluorescent lighting for the Aquarium Reef Tanks. It has been in development for over two years. It will change the way Aquarists light their tanks from now and into the future.

The current design produces PAR light output levels equal to a 250W MH 20K. It uses 40% less energy than the Metal Halide Fixtures it replaces. The life of the LED`s is 50,000 hours, so it almost eliminates metal halide and fluorescent bulb replacements. All heat is radiated up and away from the tank Therefore, it does not heat the water like Metal Halides or Fluorescents. This eliminates the need for Chillers. The room air conditioner needs to work 1/2 as much since the light fixture produces only half the heat of Metal Halides which saves even more energy over traditional lighting methods.

There is a built in microprocessor that controls the Solaris. This not only eliminates timers, but it allows the unit to dim the actinic blue LEDs, white LEDs, Lunar actinic blue LEDs and Lunar White LEDS independently from 0-100%. This dimming capability opens many opportunities. The light can be adjusted from 6.5K to 22K, or anywhere in between, to set the ideal color temperature. Sunrise, Daylight, Cloud Cover, Sunset, and the lunar cycle, can all be set independently.

Coral Growth has been outstanding with the new lights. There is excellent water penetration of the light.

Supplied with Control Modular and Mounting Feet.

[Mavvy]

Hey, Ninong! Thanks for the quick reply; I KNEW I'd be able to draw somebody out! *grin* Actually, I have several 'friends' who are involved in...ummm...'horticulture', so to speak...that would take these off my hands should I decide a.) to purchase, and b.) they ain't worth the metal the panel's made of. I have a luxmeter here, somewheres (it's a HANNA HI 97500; I was a photographer in a much previous life, and did a few advertising-shoot things in the Tampa Bay area underwater). I guess I should drag it out and get a reading from this 250W MH setup before I do anything else...
...but, I digress. More than anything else, I'm curious as to how and if the things work...so, IF I end up making the purchase, I'll post results. But, believe me, your cautions are surely taken to heart; your posts in particular are one of the reasons I'm here. It's a learning experience, for me...and I'll continue to soak it in, even at the ripe old age of 54.

[Ninong]

I have several 'friends' who are involved in...ummm...'horticulture', so to speak...that would take these off my hands...

If they are doing that in their basement, rather than the local national forest lands, they are using 1,000w metal halides.

[CharlotteSteve]

I have LEDs and they are awesome. They definantly shimmer, sometimes the water will break the light spectrum up and it cast a really cool twinkle of blue and white. They are not that expensive or complicating, but just like anything, research will save you time and $$. Don't be afraid of the light output either. I mean you guys trust the sh**ty specs that they put on MH and FL bulbs. There really is no standard or law that holds these companies to strict testing or correct information (it's a sales gimmic). However if you read up/talk to the Philips people about their LEDs, they have thousands of hours of testing and lots of info on spectrum and TRUE light output. Just because the LEDs are new doesn't mean that they're more expensive than FL's or MH's. I paid just under 500$ for my complete LED setup with 32 LEDs that have hold 90%+ of they're spectrum after 8+ years (I've heard up to 10). Think about this -- typ. MH or FL fixture is between 150-300$ and the bulbs are typically 50-100$ atleast every year. So after two or three years, they're already paid for. Also the difference in power usage. I orig. had 3 65w PC's at 195w total. My new LED unit is just under 100w. I also have no fans or chiller as LEDs heat comes off the back puck and the light comes out of the front. I agree with the you guys on the commercial models, entirely overpriced and they are making bank. All the materials to make this product have been around for years, it's just that no one has put them together like PFO so he can charge whatever hea wants. IMHO the 48" should be under 700$. Oh and about the Salt creep thing. Last time I checked copper was copper and aluminum is aluminum. You can anodize the components but in the salt world, you're only postponing the inevitable, this is true in the fanciest fixture you buy at your LFS or a DIY project. Ahh now to my point. NO METAL PARTS EXPOSED TO AIR/SALT, how? You can literally hold your hand on the bulb portion of the LEDs. What does this mean? it means you can COMPLETELY seal the LEDs in a hood because there is no need for cooling ventilation. So if there is no way for the Salt to get in, who cares what the LEDs are made of. And even if they did get exposed, these LEDs are much more protected than and metal ended bulb.

[Mavvy]

Well, the panel thing ain't working out...the vendor insisted he couldn't break up a lot of 10, and began to cop an attitude when I pressed the issue. So...I'll leave it be, for now. Gotta concentrate on purchasing some new digs anyway...I'm REAL tired of renting, and I need some more of my own space.

And, C/S...just read your post, and agree completely re: cost of the LED stuff, ESPECIALLY the PFO items...and, like you said, until there's a competitive item, he'll charge and get what he chooses.

[CharlotteSteve]

Like my old man said...everything is for sale. I would be happy to build an LED hood per your specs for cost + time & shipping. Just a thought. I can't get materials as cheap as PFO, but I have got in touch with the guys at future electronics and some other wholesalers who are interested in what I'm doing and want to help out. Let me know and I can figure up some numbers for ya per your tank. If I had the money Id send you one to try, so you could get hooked like me. I really feel this is the future and I want in!!!

[Mavvy]

Like my old man said...everything is for sale. I would be happy to build an LED hood per your specs for cost + time & shipping. Just a thought. I can't get materials as cheap as PFO, but I have got in touch with the guys at future electronics and some other wholesalers who are interested in what I'm doing and want to help out. Let me know and I can figure up some numbers for ya per your tank. If I had the money Id send you one to try, so you could get hooked like me. I really feel this is the future and I want in!!!

*LOL* No problem on the travel...we both live in Charlotte. Can you source me some info for units for the 37G, and, possibly, for a 55G (I may be swapping the 37G into that, and downsizing the 55G planted into the 37).

[CharlotteSteve]

Working on a prototype unit as we speak, but with the lack of funds lately it's been slow going. However the basic lighting components will be the same as the unit that sits over my 37g. Two heatsinks with 16 LEDs on each, 24 white LEDs and 8 blue LEDs. Check out the DIY thread for the details TOTW 12-3-08 DIY LED Hood for Reef Tank. Let me know If you want to come see my setup (located close to north lake).

[Mavvy]

That'd be cool...I'll PM you when I get my own schedule firmed up...weekends are usually best.