Algae Problem (T5 Lighting)

[mal211]

FOWLR tank, 72g, 100lbs live rock (Currently housing a sebae anemone as well) Tank is ~18in deep

Currently running a large fixture with 2 250W MH lights and 4x54w T-5 lighting. One of the ballasts on a 250w bulb gave out on me so I only run one of the bulbs (alternating which one daily by switching the ballast between the two lights). I need to replace the T5 lights in the fixture. They are Odyssea 54W bulbs (I have heard they aren't the cream of the crop in terms of brands but it's what I've got right now). Here are my questions:

1. Are all 54W T-5 bulbs 45.8 in long?

2. Can I switch the type of bulb without issue? For instance, if I currently run an aquablue plus bulb can I order an actinic plus bulb without problems? (Or whatever bulbs I want) If so, can anyone suggest a series of four bulbs that will serve me best?

3. I currently have a SEVERE algae problem. The tank has been maintained for nearly 5 years now and it has been a constant battle. Does anyone think it would be a bad idea alternating between the T5 lighting and MH lights each day? Any other options?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks so much to all that respond!

[Reefing Madness]

FOWLR tank, 72g, 100lbs live rock (Currently housing a sebae anemone as well) Tank is ~18in deep

Currently running a large fixture with 2 250W MH lights and 4x54w T-5 lighting. One of the ballasts on a 250w bulb gave out on me so I only run one of the bulbs (alternating which one daily by switching the ballast between the two lights). I need to replace the T5 lights in the fixture. They are Odyssea 54W bulbs (I have heard they aren't the cream of the crop in terms of brands but it's what I've got right now). Here are my questions:

1. Are all 54W T-5 bulbs 45.8 in long?

2. Can I switch the type of bulb without issue? For instance, if I currently run an aquablue plus bulb can I order an actinic plus bulb without problems? (Or whatever bulbs I want) If so, can anyone suggest a series of four bulbs that will serve me best?

3. I currently have a SEVERE algae problem. The tank has been maintained for nearly 5 years now and it has been a constant battle. Does anyone think it would be a bad idea alternating between the T5 lighting and MH lights each day? Any other options?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks so much to all that respond!

You will not have any issues with switching to any T-5 54watt lamp. They will all fit, they will all work. With the Halide your using, you don't even need the T-5's in there, they would only be used as actinics anyway, color rendering. Take them out if you want to.
Algae problem, what kind of algea we talking about here? Your phosphates are probably to high. Thats normally how these things get started and grow to a pain in the butt. What kind of water do you use?

[mal211]

Thanks for the advice on the T5s. I do like them for the extra shine and would really like to have them on sometimes. I do not use RO water. I also thought my phosphates would be high. I ran a test and they were normal. I also took my water to a good friend with a much higher quality test kit and phosphates came back normal. It is so strange.

I am not good with identifying algae. Characteristics I can give you are that it is green, forms microbubbles under them, and (overtime) create a carpet-like effect on my live rock and live sand. It can literally coat the entire tank.

Was thinking a sterilizer may help. Also, switching to RO water?

[Reefing Madness]

Thanks for the advice on the T5s. I do like them for the extra shine and would really like to have them on sometimes. I do not use RO water. I also thought my phosphates would be high. I ran a test and they were normal. I also took my water to a good friend with a much higher quality test kit and phosphates came back normal. It is so strange.

I am not good with identifying algae. Characteristics I can give you are that it is green, forms microbubbles under them, and (overtime) create a carpet-like effect on my live rock and live sand. It can literally coat the entire tank.

Was thinking a sterilizer may help. Also, switching to RO water?

UV will not solve the issue. Its green hair algae. But this is the tricky part. What did the test kit say your phosphate reading was? Normal in a reef tank should be 0. And also remember that they algae is eating a large number of those that you will not read. And there is a clean water algea that is a little tougher to get rid of.
Bryopsis:
Bryopsis: A Common Pest in Aquaria: An unsightly, green alga that herbivores dislike to eat. | Suite101.com

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

Like Reefing Madness said, keep in mind that your phosphates may be reading normal because the algea is consuming it as fast as it's produced. Same goes for nitrates. Lighting is almost never the cause of algea problems. Excess nutrients are usually the cause. if you're using tap water, try and get a phosphate and nitrate reading on the new water. If you register any phosphates or nitrates, its time to use RO/DI water. It's a good idea to use RO/DI regardless of how "good" your tap water is. Hobbyists have enough other things to worry about in our systems. Source water shouldn't be one of them. Also, an overstocked tank, poor tank husbandry, inadequate equipment, and many low quality fish foods all contribute to water quality and should also be considered.

[mal211]

Very interesting theory! I did not even think about that. How difficult is the change from tap to RO water. Would you recommend a 10-20% water change with RO water, would you do a larger one? Definitely willing to invest some money to solve this unsightly problem

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

Because you have an anemone that doesn't seem to be doing well, I would do a large water change. 80%-90% with at least RO but preferably RO/DI water with a 0 (or near 0) TDS reading. Of course, if your changing that much water, you have to make sure the new water's calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, ph, temp and salinity match the tanks water before the change. Also, the new water should be mixed for at least 24 hours before changing. If the perams aren't as close as possible, you risk "shocking" the system and that's never good.

[Reefing Madness]

Very interesting theory! I did not even think about that. How difficult is the change from tap to RO water. Would you recommend a 10-20% water change with RO water, would you do a larger one? Definitely willing to invest some money to solve this unsightly problem

When I did the switch, I swapped out 1/2 the water at one time. Should not have a problem with it. Make sure the water is same temp as tank and same salinity. But if your not comfortable with that, just do the normal 25% change.