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HQI mini pendants.....Parallel or Perpendicular?

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Old 08-22-2001, 06:59 PM   #21
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umm, whats an x10 controller?
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Old 08-22-2001, 07:13 PM   #22
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It's a little module (got mine at radio shack) that turns all your equipment off and on. Also works as a timer.
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Old 08-22-2001, 09:11 PM   #23
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John,
I was not impressed with the lights or the corals. Its very hard to tell on a open top system like he runs. SPS need time to "color up" so I can't say anything bad other then not being impressed. These guys know a hec of a lot more then I.

Mark
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Old 08-23-2001, 01:49 AM   #24
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Hey Golfish,

I am considering adding a 400w 10000k bulb and PFO over the center cross brace of the 120g, it has plenty of PAR along with my HQI and the color should be pretty close to the HQI. What do you think of this scenario, with the extra heat, am I going to wish I hadn't done this???

Thanks,

Nanook
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Old 08-23-2001, 03:31 AM   #25
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Hey Golfish, I tried to edit that last post but couldn't. I did a little more research and it seems that the Blueline E-ballast give the most PAR for the 400w USHIO bulb. So scratch the PFO. What's your opinion on this setup??

Nanook
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Old 08-23-2001, 03:36 AM   #26
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Another Q for you Mark. How many degrees did the 400w add to the tank? Thanks,

dave
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Old 08-23-2001, 05:08 AM   #27
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Dave,
I can't really give you an answer on how many degrees my tank temp increased. I can say this, with all the fans going and the house temp set at 78 the temp slowly rises from 80 to 83...today the temp reached 83.5....If you have central air and are ready to add more fans the 400 watter should not be a problem. If you don't have central air its probably going to be a problem.

You wont get near the par from a 10K bulb as you would a 6.5K. If lighting the center of the tank is your only concern then go for the 10K. If you plan to have SPS under this light the your corals might not do to well. If the E-ballast will light a 6.5K bulb(I don't think so) then go for it. If not then I would use a PFO standard ballast just in case you want to switch bulbs later.

Mark
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Old 08-23-2001, 06:25 AM   #28
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Hey Golfish, do you think that SPS don't like the 10k or is it just not enough PAR with the cross brace blocking the way?

I checked out the reports by Sanjay Joshi, it looks like the magnetic ballast and MV ballast burned the 400 watt Iwasaki with the most PPFD. So, based on this information, the standard PFO ballast would be the way to to. The PPFD is 187 with the magnetic ballast, which is the PFO, right? Thanks,

nanook
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Old 08-23-2001, 11:04 AM   #29
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Now I'm thinking about selling the HQI's, and just using two 400w Iwasaki's run on a PFO EYE ballast....damn I'm indecisive

Not sure how the bulbs will look on the EYE ballast, instead of the normal MH ballast. I also wonder if four, 110w VHO actinics will balance the color out enough. I could add another couple VHO's though.

I just don't understand why some tanks I look at with 400w iwasaki's look great, and others look like pea soup. I don't mind a *warm* looking tank, I just hate a tank with a green tint to it. I think I actualy prefer the *warm look* to the *opertaing room* of stark white 10k's

Last edited by JG; 08-23-2001 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 08-23-2001, 07:21 PM   #30
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Dave,
You would get more par from a 250 watt Iwasaki then you would the 400 watt 10K. People say the 250 watter is a crisp white ran on a PFO standard ballast. I have read the PFO EYE (MV) ballast burns the Iwasaki a little less yellow. I don't think its worth giving up the ability to swap bulbs for a little lss yellow.


John,

4 actinc VHO's should do the trick,
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Old 08-23-2001, 07:33 PM   #31
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Mark,

You think the two 400w Iwasaki's(on an *EYE* ballast), and four 110w actinics is my best option here?

I guess I could always add an extra two actinics to that if need be...three in the front, three in the back.
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Old 08-23-2001, 07:49 PM   #32
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tell me more about your tank. Do you have a cross bar?
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Old 08-23-2001, 10:25 PM   #33
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Mark,

Yeah, its a standard 120g Oceanic show tank. 11" crossbar made from glass.

Anything in particular you won't to know about it?
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Old 08-23-2001, 10:27 PM   #34
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BTW, just emailed Jason at PA...he said the new 400w Iwasaki's are supposed to be more white....quote "I haven't seen the new Iwaski bulb in action yet, but it's suppose to be close to a 10K now."
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Old 08-23-2001, 10:38 PM   #35
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I know you have the 2x250 watt HQI's. I would just add another bulb over the cross bar. I haven't heard anything about the 400 watt Iwasaki's looking more white. I hope so.
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Old 08-23-2001, 10:49 PM   #36
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Yeah, I sure hope so too. He said the new Iwasaki's supposedly look like 10k's....we'll see.

Gonna order my LR from Jeff's next week. Figure I'll give it a 2 week cure before adding it to the new tank.
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Old 08-23-2001, 10:51 PM   #37
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BTW, he also said the *EYE* ballast comsumes twice the amps as the regular MH ballast...does that sound right??
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Old 08-23-2001, 11:33 PM   #38
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Never ever heard that about the MV ballast using more juice. I wonder if Perry's out there.

Mark
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Old 08-24-2001, 04:49 PM   #39
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Perry is here for a minute. Don't have a computer setup at my place in Sac yet, and just grabbing some stuff from my folks place in Livermore.

The answer to the Amp draw is a simple one. The EYE ballast draws twice as much, but its only for the ignition of the lamp. Consumption after the firing will be very similar. If you are running near the breaker max, I would stay away from the EYE, or just have them start about 5min from eachother. Personally I would get the regular PFO due to the flexibility of the ballast.

FWIW, Tubs is running a similar setup JG, and his tank looks awesome. I think he has 3 VHO, 4 would look great as well. Check out some of his recent pics. Coloration is awesome.

-Perry
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Old 08-24-2001, 05:29 PM   #40
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Sweet,

Looks like I'm going to go with the dual 400w Iwasaki on the regular PFO MH ballast. Also with four 110w VHO actinics.

Someonbe wants to buy one of my HQI setups, so I'll probably sell the other also.
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