Lets talk RADIUMS! and new 15k's

[scubadude]

Radium(20k) and 15k's

Ok guys, I want to start playing around with these...but I have just recently started researching them, so I am very naive on this topic....I want opinions, facts, chart comparisons, debates, growth rates of corals, coloring issues, effeciency comparisons w/other ballast and/or bulbs. Overcharging ballast, duration of bulbs as well as how drastic their falloff levels are.

My whole perspective on them from what I have read is that they produce the BEST coloring of your corals for a "one-shot" MH bulb w/out any actinics, however there are other issues that I think are starting to arise w/these. I think that the best growout bulb is still the iwasaki's. My thoughts where to put 2 radiums in between my 3 250w HQI bulbs, so I can get a more blue spectrum possibly coloring up my corals more ( I swore i wouldnt do this ). There im curious as to which ones I should use...the 150w HQI's? the 250w HQI's? 400w HQI's or should I use moguls? My main concern is effeciency, and coloring to the coral itself (NOT looks)

Also lets try and give some links as for some of the best prices for these ballast and bulbs please. The only place I have been to is

www.lampsnow.com

and they dont even carry the 400w ballast

[Papa Doug]

I have run most of them at one time or another. To be honest, I cant make up my mind.

As many know, I have always been a fan of 400 watt 12K,s flanked by 175 watt 10K,s. This combo worked well on my 4ft. 170. I was running the same on the 6ft. 180.

On my 170 I have been running a 400 watt 20K Radium, {I get mine from www.saltwaterconnection} in Canada. I ran it on a standard ballast, so I assume its not as bright as when using HQI or an electronic.

Now for the change. I just closed my 170 down and put the stock in the 180. I have been playing with the lighting. Just for the heck, I put my 400 watt Iwasaki in between the pair of 10K bulbs the other day.

What an amazing difference in the corals. My yellow porites, which would be directly under it, was the nicest its looked in some time. I fragged a large umbrella leather some time ago, and today the frags and momma are the largest & the most polyp extension also. Even the lps, that were under the 400w Radium, are looking better. Some frogspawn colonies were huge. An open brain was huge, much larger than under the 20K. Of course these are to the side of the Iwasaki, and more directly under the 175 watt 10K bulbs.

So I just dont know anymore. Mark is gonna make fun of me, when he reads this.

I guess one thing is the 20K is to weak, run on a normal ballast. I ran it side by side, with a 400 watt 12K. We seen absolutely no difference. That I assume is the reason for the increase in lps expansion. I would also say that the 6ft tank is that much larger coverage area than my 4ft. so the 10K- 12K- 10K, was not as effective, esp for the sps.

Not sure what I will run now. The 400 Iwasaki, is so much brighter than any other, but is still yellow. I have always loved the 12K or 20K colour. Very nice. I guess the best advice is as I have always said. If one is going to use a higher "K" bulb, then the wattage must be stepped up to compensate for the lower par. If your going to use 20,s then I would make sure the correct ballasts are employed.

[dattack]

I am pretty much still waiting for the consensus in terms of the radium bulb also. Looks like there are a few people that did some research and it turns out that the M-135 is the closest ballast in terms of lighting these radiums. However, I haven't seen them personally yet. I did however seen a few radiums on the PFO's which are very nice in terms of the right white and blue without actinics needed. Supposedly, the PFO's are run on the Son Agro ballasts used in hydroponics.

I haven't seen anybody posting a picture of these 20Ks on the Son Agro ballast yet either. The M-135s I can get locally for around $50 which is very decent considering most 400 W HQI ballast run at around $150.

[eddie]

HI all

dattack as you know I have son agro's but havent tryed them yet

will soon though I'm temped to fire up one of these 400watt BLV 52k HQI top floods that "doctors foster & smith "sent me as 10k s for $49 each

but...I dont want the bulbs so have to send them back

your correct going by spec M-135 is the way to go but they will be bluer (which I like )than the agro ballasts supposedly


I'm gonna run either 400 watt 10k Ushios ,10k BLV or Hamilton's on my 430 agros & 400 S-51 HPS because they are the closest to spec for these ballasts

I was planning the 20k radiums for the 430's(supposedly same as PFO HQI) but after intensive research (by others & relayed to me)so called HQI(HPS) ballasts are not the best choice going by specs for 20k Radiums

A true HQI european ballast is a Mercury vapor + ignitor & runs the Radiums blue like they are supposed to look but incorperates the ignitor to make the bulb start better and I asume last longer

so either contact Tridonic which will get you a true HQI(which will run the Radium blue)from Europe or get a cheap M-135 pulse start and a $20 ballast box from discount hydroponics and add a 400 250 or 175 10k Ushio (IMO)if you think its to blue

BTW John F at RC should be sending me my 1000watt true HQI ballast he orderd from Europe for me for a 20 k Radium this week
dont know when I'll start using it
It'll be used with a 20k radium on a hydroponic light mover over a frag vat in the future to color up greenhouse grown frags along with a 1000watt 20k Ushio bulb which isnt avalible to me yet but will be soon (from Hellolights)
I have a 1000 watt M-47 sunlight supply ballast & hydroponic light mover with a 20k coralife now
BTW the Ushio 1000 watt 20k needs a M-47 not a TRUE HQI ballast like the Radium FWIW

Scuba dude the 15k's are on my list of bulbs I want to try mainly because I have alot of M-59 ballasts & that along with the Ushio 400 watt 20k are designed for the M-59's

btw Hellolights has the 15k made special for them thats why you cant get them no where else (to my knowlege)thats why they are out of stock

[eddie]

btw the 400 20k Ushios that are designed for cheap M-59's are bluer than 20k Radiums on M-59's so supplementing sakis I'd choose the 20k Ushio but would suggest 10k Ushio X 20k Ushio for a display(to anyone)

I'll definantly be using the 65k Iwasakis not only for the cheap price but long life mabey just to supplement winter light durations in the greenhouse growout stock tanks with a circular light mover that holds 2-3 reflectors


I'm sure I'll have to just figure it out as I go slowly for my location


I plan to run 400 Radiums on M-135's or Electronics if I opt to use them now

[mrok12]

Just a word from the peanut gallery.

I have been running 2-400 watt 20k Radiums for a month now and have noticed a change in the colors of my corals. I also Have a better growth rate now. I will post pics in three weeks of a pink Acropora millepora that has taken off like a weed in the new tank.

Anyway, I run the Radiums at the ends of the canopy and Have 2-250 watt Iwasakis in the center. It give a nice clean white spectrum when they are all on. I run the radiums 12 hours and the Sakis for five.

So far things are looking up with the radiums.