[Kashi]

Maybe Andy@Icecap can answer this better but I welcome anyone elses thoughts!

I am currently replacing my MH system which consists of 3 250w 65K Iwasaki's on PFO ballasts and 1 660 Icecap ballast powering 2 160w actinic VHO bulbs. Now this was my 'dream' lighting susyem for my 125gal tank but I am returning to ALL VHO lighting like when I had a 55gal with 440w of VHO over it.

Now I'm sure people are now thinking I'm crazy ! But I'm tired of the heat, evaporation, and the powerful fans needed to cool these off (sounded like a helocopter in my den).

I have SPS,LPS, Softies, anemone, etc.

My question: My MH lights are 8 inches off the water. If I mount the new VHO's ( I'm adding another Icecap 660 with 3 5ft long 50/50's) where the current 6ft actinics are will 10 inches off the water be ok as far as intensity is ??

I'm also looking forward to the colors that the VHO will bring out. The 65k's were nice but the colors werent great as far as corals

[dattack]

Why don't you replace the Iwasakis with 10K Ushios or AB? That would be a very nice color with the actinics you have now.

Anyways, I would mount the VHO around 3-4" from the water so it doesn't lose intensity. Intensity of lighting decreases exponentially with distance and 10" is too high IMO.

[Reefland]

I hope Andy will read this thread and give some input. I know he recently posted stating he mounted his VHO 10" (I think) above the water, mainly so the bulbs didn't interfere with his MH lighting, but as far as effectiveness is that the best thing to do? I would say if your going with only VHO to stay around 4-6" off the surface.

Scott Z.

[Kashi]

Thanks. I replaced my Halides this weekend and now have a total of 740w of VHO lighting using 2 Icecap 660's. My hood was designed for Halides so the VHO bulbs are now 9 inches above the water. I wanted to see how they look and how the corals respond but most likely I will drop the lights about 4 to 5 inches (or less) above the water.

WOW what a diference in lighting intensity, I'm missing my halides already - LOL. I can always go back to the Halides but I think I'm going to be happy with the cool running VHO and I also replaced the "helicopter" muffin fans with the very quiet one's from Icecap. I removed the big standing fan from the den and now I have "peace and quiet" !

Now we'll see how it affects my evaporation.

[ASH]

From IceCap:
Sorry I'm late getting in on this thread. You mentioned your hood was designed for MH. Does that mean you have a reflector above the lamps? If not, you may want to add that, even if you're using URI 180 lamps.

Also, describe your hood. Does it still have the Mogal sockets? Assuming you need more lighting, I'd like to suggest some compromise solutions, like some 150-MH bulbs or a new non-ballasted CFL of a wattage and Kelvin we're not used to seeing. We're currently trying these out on our IceCap shop tank.

Space must be at a premium so here's some other ideas.
Use a pair of NO T-8's on a Model 430 for when you want maximum lighting. Finally, there's a space-saver light-blaster, T-5 6.5K lamps for peak lighting. We're waiting on some water-proof endcaps but it's otherwise ready to go.

Andy

[Kashi]

Thanks Andy.

What is your feeling on how high above the water the VHO's should be ?

I now have 2 660 ballasts; 1 powering 2 160w 6ft actinic (left over from my Halide setup) and 1 powering 3 5ft 140w (1 AquaSun and 2 5/50)
for a total of 740w. I am planning on replacing the 2 6ft actinics with 3 140w actinics which will then bring my total watts to 840. What do you think?

Also, can you give me some details/ideas on the refectors? Currently I used Aluminum reflective duc tape on the inside but it looks like I need something a lot better now. What do you suggest and where to get it?
(anything at Home Depot?)

Looks like for now I am going to try my luck with this VHO setup and see how my corals do.

[ASH]

From IceCap:
Going from 2X6 to 3X5ft will help, but I'd go with 2Super Actinics and 1 Aqua Sun or 50/50. I'll get back to you on reflectors as we're doing some testing at IC now.

I was serious when I asked if you still have the Mogal sockets. I might have a non-HID use for them to give your lighting a boost.

Andy

[Kashi]

I don't have the moguls as I sold my complete 250w PFO Halide setup. I am interested in hearing about the non-hid use.

I have seen all VHO setups with less wattage than mine and these people kept almost any coral. Take for example championlighting.com tanks.

I still need to know what you recomend the height above the water the VHO bulbs should be. I am going to lower them in the hood this weekend.

Thanks!

[ASH]

I had replied to this but it got lost with the move to the new address.

I'd recommend the bottom of the lamps to be 3.5 to 6 inches off the water depending on how much spray there is and heat issues.

Here's a picture of what I was hinting at for your MH sockets. It's running on a Model 430, rated for 85-watts, 6.4K and being pushed at 120+ watts.

Andy

[Reefland]

Is that a halide bulb in the picture running on a 430? It looks nice white and bright!

Scott Z.

[ASH]

It's a Mogal based, remote ballasted, CFL. Here's a shot where you can see the bulb. We're doing some life testing and have a pair run by a Model 660 over our 75G tank at IceCap.
A pair of 85-watters run at 272 watts on our Model 660.
Andy

[Reefland]

I missed that statement in your previous post....apologies.

The picture you posted this time really shows the coloration good! This looks like one of the bulbs that can be picked up at the local hardware stores but I assume it is not? Boy that would be too easy to go to Home Depot to pick up replacement bulbs huh?

Do you have any specifics on the bulbs that you can share such as PAR or preliminary life span data?

Regards,
Scott Z.

[Papa Doug]

Must be the new thing.

I also just replaced my halides with vho. As a matter of fact I had a brand new Blue Wave duel ballast, powering a pair of 400 watt 20K Radiums. It was stunning to say the least.

Anyways, I had a buyer for all my vho equipment or the above,{which he took}, so I said what the heck. As my tank is heading in another direction, {all soft corals, plus some lps}, filtered by a turf scrubber, I fugured why not change lighting also.

I have 4- 110w 50/50 bulbs running on a 660 at the present. I purchased another 660, that will be powering 4- 110w actinics soon.

Will have some pics in the near future.

[Kashi]

Kinda funny. I wanted a "super" halide system over my 125 for a long time and enjoyed it for 9 months. Now I think I'm enjoying the VHO even more. Not as intense lighting but less stressful and more relaxing to me - again, kinda funny.

[ASH]

Scott,
We're doing life testing on them now and running a pair over our 75-G tank at IceCap powered by a Model 660. Nice part is for one lamp change-over, using a Model 430, no re-wiring is required if you're using one of our MH ballasts with a Molex connector. Just switch the MH bulb to the CFL and change the ballast to a M430 and you're up and running. Unlike the HD lamps, this isn't self-ballasted so we can overdrive it. If the bulbs hold up we'll test for PAR but for now we're concentrating on lamp depreciation and reliability.
Andy

[Reefland]

That's great stuff Andy!

As always, you and your teams innovative efforts are most appreciated! Be sure to keep us updated on this test as data becomes available!

Regards,
Scott Z.

[bartstar]

Hi Andy,

Appreciate all the good information you have posted. My understanding is that Compact Fluorescents, while terrific in some applications (replacing incandescents) have a relatively short lamp life (10,000 hours), lose efficiency at higher tempatures, are position sensative, and the lamp "fingers" tend to shadow each other.

I've also heard that at linear source (T5HO and T8 NO) are much more efficient but are limited in kelvin termpature to 6500K. Are there any with a higher K?

Thanks,

Bartstar

[dattack]

I am not sure about that Bartster, but the power compacts easily break, especially when you try to get them off the rubber end caps.

[ASH]

From IceCap:
I agree PC's aren't the solution they claimed to be and only recommend them when space is the major criteria. These screw-in CFL are no cure-all either, and but for so far not appearing fragile or short-lived, we would not be testing them. What I find interesting is that you can take a MH setup and use it for a CFL without re-wiring. You can use the same reflector. So far 6.4K and lower K's is all that's available in them.

As far as T-8 and T-5's, there's already lots of K values to choose from. On our web-site is the FAMA reprint, http://www.icecapinc.com/famaarticle2.htm of using full spectrum T-8 NO lamps, and Zoo Med makes a line of Aquarium T-8 NO lamps I've seen in several stores.
Andy