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Phosphate sponge |
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#1 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Palm Springs ,CA
Posts: 18
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Phosphate sponge
I would just like to know how to use a phosphate sponge? And can i place it in a filter and use it like the carbon inserts? what are the benefits of using a phosphate sponge?
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#2 |
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Moderator - LEE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So CA
Posts: 2,239
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First, let's be sure we're talking about the same thing.
A phosphate sponge is a proper name of a product, such as Kent's Phosphate Sponge. This is a ceramic medium which first absorbs phosphate and then, when it the phosphate concentration is too low, it absorbs silica. There is also the generic use of the term phosphate sponge to mean a product that is going to reduce the phosphate levels in the aquarium. Some are suited to freshwater, others to saltwater, others to both. If this is what we're talking about, then. . . The medium is placed into the flow of the aquarium water. This can be done in-line to the system flow (e.g. from sump return water), or it can a stand-alone piece of equipment. The equipment consists of almost anything that would hold carbon for filtering the water. That is, for a stand alone, there would be a filter chamber and a pump with the necessary plumbing. There are such things made for this purpose that are called phosphate reactors. The word reactor has a rather ominous connotation, but it's just a tall tube, and would be suitable for a variety of media. To use these products properly, you need to know what your phosphate levels are (test it) and then you need to be sure you're using the right amount of the product to do the job properly. This information (on quantity to use) comes from the manufacturer of the product which, if they are responsible, should be able to specify how much is needed to reduce phosphate from X levels to Y levels in a G gallon system. You test for phosphate before, during, and after the use of these products to be sure you have made a good choice, using it properly, and succeeding at achieving your target phosphate concentration goal. Without testing, you're in the dark and only guessing and there's enough of that in this hobby already. :slap: I think the above covers your first two questions. Phosphate removing water treatments have a distinct advantage to my system. I have a FOWLR system with some delicate and reclusive fishes. In order to feed them properly, I usually overfeed my tanks. I have extra clean up crews that are responsible for getting left over foods, but what I'm doing is putting more-than-normal OR more-than-needed levels of phosphates into my system. I always use a phosphate remover of one type or other. But it isn't for everyone. The need for this needs to be evaluated. To do this properly, you need to determine where the phosphates are coming from and then see if you can reduce or eliminate them through other means. The phosphate sponge and other systems don't totally remove all phosphates. They just reduce them (hopefully, if you're using the right kind, properly) to below problematic concentrations. I have a refugium stocked with thriving macro algae of various kinds, yet I still attack extra phosphates in my system. See: Tang Macro Algae Foods One of the problems associated with higher-than-desired phosphate levels is the growth of nuisance microbes and algae (not to mention the dreaded hair algae, red algae, etc.). If your mature system is plagued by these and you cannot or are unable to reduce the phosphates you're adding to your system, then alternate means to reduce phosphate would be a good choice. A chemical remover is one option; a refugium with macro algae is another choice; more water changes is another choice; or any combination of these; or (like I do) all these things. I say mature because I would not evaluate the need for these chemical removers until after the aquarium has settled into a pattern and matured. New aquariums and young (under 6 months) aquariums are going through microbial changes that may not be representative of what the mature aquarium will be dealing with in the long term. After that, the aquarist must decide how to handle the waste or undesirable nutrients/components in the system. If you need more info or if the definition doesn't match what you're asking, please ask. Hope the above helps!
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LEE Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.
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#3 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Palm Springs ,CA
Posts: 18
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Thanks for the info.. it helped me a lot on this new hobby of mine. I wasz just wondering since i have a 3 month old tank and i too experienced the algae blooms like hair algae and diatom(those green stuff on top of the substrate..if thats what it is called). I was able to remove all hair algae from my tank with the help of a very hungry emerald crab.. my concern is about using the phosphat sponge. i was planning to place it in a canister filter.. is tha tok? and when do i change them or how often do i change them? another was is it too early for me to use a phosphate sponge in my tank? od do i need my tank to MATURE more??
Again thank you very much this is a very helpful and informative forum for begginers like me... |
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#4 |
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Moderator - LEE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So CA
Posts: 2,239
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You're welcome!
Sponge in canister filter is okay. Remember in the previous post about measuring phosphate? You replace the sponge when the phosphate levels go up again. You want to test before you put in the sponge, during the use of the sponge, and at the time of replacement. You know when to change the sponge when the phosphate concentration measurement goes higher than your desired limit, or when the phosphate measures over 0.05 ppm or the minimum the phosphate sponge is able to attain. I would let your tank mature longer. You may not need a phosphate sponge once you see how everything turns out. Ideally, the tank matures, then you add fish, and the hardier corals you want to keep. Most don't or won't wait that long, but that is the best way to start a new marine aquarium. I'd suggest that for the next three months that you measure the phosphate concentration. Start with the measurements of your source water and make-up saltwater (for your changes) and display tank water, as soon as you get the test kit (which should be within the next few days). Then test your display tank water once every two to three weeks to get a feel for the phosphate concentration ranges you see.
__________________
LEE Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.
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