[anthias]

hi, good morning

recently I noticed my fish having this patches , can any one tel me what is it?
the fish looks good moving and eating ,some times it breath fast but most the time breath normaly.
my aquarium is still under anti white spot medication so mybe it is a medical reaction.
the PH , NO2, NO3 are normal and under control.

[leebca]

Nice photo!

Unfortunately, I can't tell the depth of the feature. Does it raise up on top of the skin or under the skin? Is it a depression into the fish? Is it at skin level? How long have you had this fish? How long have you seen this on the fish? Do you use a quarantine process? What and when were the last additions to the aquarium after this fish.

[anthias]

thanks leebca for your fast replay,this fish is only one month in my tank ,the patch appear yesterday only ,and the lesion seems to be skin level.
leebca there is some one want to thank u ,see the attachment please

[leebca]

Thank you! You're welcome. That looks like a young adult Annularis in transition.

Most likely what you see will go away on its own. Just watch it closely to see if it swells up or rises up from skin level. Let us know if it changes in appearance. It most likely is a reaction to something inside the fish, which could be coming from the water.

[anthias]

That looks like a young adult Annularis in transition
yes lee ur right ,do u know if it is male or femal?
it is the fish used to have white spot,but now it is ok(i hope)
I but the butterfly in hospital tank and start anti internal bacteria, cause I noticed another red patch on the other side of the fish.

[leebca]

I don't know its gender and I'm unaware of any outward marking that would indicate its gender.

I hope the butterfly will be okay.

[anthias]

good evening lee,

you said in another thread that adding vitamins to a hypo tank may caze a bacterial problem ,and it happend with me one time after adding chim-vit many fishes showed desease.
can u just explaine mor about it .

[leebca]

Vitamins are mostly proteins and amino acids. These are the 'foods' of many bacteria. In a hyposalinity situation, the introduction of excess proteins can lead to a bacterial bloom and/or an increase in ammonia and nitrite levels. So the routine addition of vitamins to the quarantine tank is not such a good idea.

However, there are times when the use of vitamins in a quarantine tank is called for. As you know the choice of what to do for the health and well-being of our marine fishes is often a trade-off of goods vs. evils. Although the addition of vitamins to a quarantine tank is something not to do on a regular basis, it is something to do when the fish is starving, not eating, has exhausted its energy reserve, or near a point in its well-being where some vitamins are needed or might help the fish in a timely manner, before the fish dies.

The bacterial bloom isn't directly related to the fish getting sick. It causes a drop in water quality. That drop in water quality can be the cause of more stress on the fish which then leads to an increase in susceptibility to disease and the opportunistic organisms (e.g. fungus). The disease of your fish could be a coincidence that occurred after the addition of the vitamins. By this I mean that the vitamin addition probably didn't lead to the diseases you see in the fish after the addition. But. . .it could have. The diseases would likely be bacterial and fungal infections and not something like parasitic pathogens (e.g., Marine Ich). So, for instance, if you saw a Marine Ich outbreak after the addition of vitamins to the quarantine tank/display tank, it wasn't likely because of the vitamin addition.

Is this what you were looking for? If not, just ask more questions.

[anthias]

yes lee thank u very much,
what about the display tank if you have ahealthy one is it ok to add vitamins weekly as its written on the bottle of the vitamins ,or there is no need to add .

[leebca]

For a fish only with live rock kind of system, the addition of vitamins to the water isn't needed. The fish foods you feed the fish together with supplements (vitamins and fats) added to those feedings, will be good enough. The fish should be getting adequate nutrition if you are following this guideline:
Feeding Marine Fish and Fish Nutrition

[anthias]

thanks lee, and one more question I realy need to know about mixing the salt with water.
I usually but water in atank and I add anti chlorine and then I run apower head then I add a proper amount of salt and keep the power head runing for three days then I test the SG and I use this water to change part of the main tank or QT.
what do u think of my procedure?
and should I wait mor or less time in the mixing period?

[leebca]

I'm concerned about your source water. Your mixing procedure is good. Some hobbyists and some of the more scientific types say that a long mix is good. It depends really on the type of salt you're using and the source chemicals that salt is made from. If the salt manufacturer doesn't provide directions for mixing, then what you are doing is very good.

The power head must be strong enough to mix the water well such that when you add the salt, the salt will dissolve out of sight in an hour or two at the most.

The only thing I would change is the kind of source water you are using. If you are adding the anti-chlorine chemical because you are using tap water, then I would stop using the tap water, stop using the anti-chlorine chemical and start to use RO or DI or RO/DI water for your salt water makeup

What kind/manufacturer of salt are you using? What kinds of salt do you have available to you there? Do you have a source of pure water? RO or DI or RO/DI water?

[anthias]

yes I am using tap water and I can smell chlorine in it.
we dont drink tap water here we buy menral water .
but after ur advise to use DO water Ill buy a good DO fillter caze It seems I need to change water alot of time in QT.(what about the display tank do u advise to change 25% every month)
I use asalt from italy it is written on the bag that I can use after mixing for 8 hours .
I have another salt from germany that I have to wait for 2 weeks but I dont know what is the point .

[leebca]

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any artificial salt manufacturer that recommends mixing for two weeks before using their salt. That's a new one to me. The 8 hours would seem to be more reasonable.

I'm glad you're getting a filter. But what does "DO" mean?

For a FOWLR system, deionized (DI) water is good enough, if the DI filter is a good quality one. You still want to test the water after the filter, for contaminants, just to be sure the filter is working reasonably well. Another test is to test for Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). This is an inexpensive meter that gives you an immediate reading.

If you pass DI water through an activated carbon filter to remove organics, the water would be good enough for a FOWLR system.

Changing 25% of the display tank water per month is an okay water change plan. If you find you are having water control problems, you can increase that to change 20% every two weeks.

You should set up your quarantine tank to have an inexpensive sponge filter to act as the biological filter in the QT.

This is a good article on the value of using a quarantine process:
An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com