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Thread: Black ich

  1. #1
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    Black ich

    Hi there,
    I am new to this forum but have read some and I think it gives good information. I have a Yellow Tang that recently got "black ich." I am waiting for the QT tank to stabilize right now so I can treat him. I have a 90 gallon tank and was wondering about riding the Display tank of the parasite. I know about its life cycle and all that. I have read that hyposalinity is good for ridding the parasite from the fish. If I were to take all the fish out of my tank and reduce the salinity dramatically in the display tank, would that be sufficient to kill the "black ich." I don't want to go through the trouble of treating the Yellow Tang and then throw him back into a infected tank and watch him get it all over again. On top of that I don't want the other fish to get it either. Thank you for your time.

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    Moderator - LEE
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    I moved your post to the Marine Fish: Care, Health and Disease Forum since this subject is better suited to that Forum.

    WELCOME TO REEFLAND !

    I'm glad you posted here.

    There seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding or mis-information about Black Ich (BI). BI is caused by a flat worm. The 'black' that is seen is actual hemorrhaging or a reaction of the skin to the parasite which causes hypermelanisation.

    Some hobbyists have had success with NOT a hyposalinity treatment, but a freshwater dip treatment that is repeated 3 times.

    The best way to treat the fish is a formalin bath (repeated for a total of 3 baths). The organism is an obligate parasite. This worm will not be killed by hyposalinity. If hyposalinity is done in the main display tank, live rock will die and all micro fauna (copepods, worms, amphipods, etc.) that are in the substrate and live rock will die. The worm, however, will live. The massive deaths will send the tank into a nose dive kind of die off with elevated ammonia and nitrites that would probably kill a few more things that managed to survive the hyposalinity treatment.

    If the fish wasn't quarantined to make sure it didn't have this parasite and the parasite is now in the display tank, then the display tank must go fishless for at least 4 weeks (to be on the extreme conservative side, 8 weeks). This will rid the display of this worm.
    LEE

    Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.

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    I have also read that a UV sterilizer can help to control black ich by killing the free floating juvenile form of the parasite. It can't kill the adult form on the fish but after the adult has reproduced in the substrate and burst, releasing its offspring, the offspring get sucked into the UV and killed. Is this true? Do you think that a UV sterilizer would be a good purchase? I am a college student so I don't have much money at this point so the expense of the UV sterilizer is the only thing keeping me from getting it.

    Also, for I have chosen to use prolonged treatment with formaline (Kordon Rid-Ich+... formaldehyde 4.26% ... formaline 11.52%) in a QT. I cannot find the 37% formaline in my town. I just moved here and it is a HORRIBLE town for saltwater fish and supplies. The only place that has saltwater is Petco and the kids that work there know NOTHING. They just try to sell me the first thing they see and have no knowledge what-so-ever. Anyway back to the treatment...I plan to treat the yellow tang with the prolonged diluted formaline daily water changes and treatments.

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    Moderator - LEE
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puffy_SK View Post
    I have also read that a UV sterilizer can help to control black ich by killing the free floating juvenile form of the parasite. . . . Is this true? Do you think that a UV sterilizer would be a good purchase?
    What you heard is true, but a bit misleading. The worm multiplies in the substrate and very few of them get through the UV. The value of the UV is to control very large blooms of bacteria, micro algae and to improve the clarity of the water. The UV cannot be counted upon to keep fish healthy nor to cure fish from diseases.

    Quote Originally Posted by Puffy_SK View Post
    I just moved here and it is a HORRIBLE town for saltwater fish and supplies.
    Sorry to hear of the lack of competent help and resources. That is sort of typical of the larger 'chain stores' for pets. You may wish to get friendly with a veterinarian or try to find a store that had a large koi/pond supplies. They often carry some of the medications used in and for saltwater fishes, even though they may not know it! You're a fine reason why online/Internet sources do pretty well. Look for what you need from the Reefland sponsors.

    Quote Originally Posted by Puffy_SK View Post
    I plan to treat the yellow tang with the prolonged diluted formaline daily water changes and treatments
    Please keep us informed how it goes. I've not heard of much success with this medication, but hope it will do the trick for you and your fish.

    The usual formalin treatment is by following what is written in this article: Formaldehyde: Friend or Foe - Treating Saltwater Fish Diseases.
    LEE

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    Quote Originally Posted by leebca View Post
    What you heard is true, but a bit misleading. The worm multiplies in the substrate and very few of them get through the UV. The value of the UV is to control very large blooms of bacteria, micro algae and to improve the clarity of the water. The UV cannot be counted upon to keep fish healthy nor to cure fish from diseases.
    LEE, so I guess UV will not be able to clear ich/velvet type of free swimming parasites? I had a velvet infection earlier and I ran it with a UV for 3 weeks (fish less, only LR), just wondering if the tank is safe again.

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    Moderator - LEE
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    As long as fish were kept in the tank during the UV treatment, the disease organisms are still there. I wish that UV did in fact do that. This hobby would be much easier!
    LEE

    Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.


 

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