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QT procedure for "dependants" |
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#1 |
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I'm just a bill
Join Date: May 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 467
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QT procedure for "dependants"
What I mean is, how do you quarantine fish like Mandarin's, Algae blennies and other fish that only eat either live foods or algaes that wouldn't be readily available in a QT? As an example, I have moved my fish to a QT one of which is an algae blennie. The other fish are eating the pellets and mysis I feed them but the blennie had only previously eaten algae in the display? I have tried hanging seaweed but he just ignores it. What to do?
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#2 |
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Moderator - LEE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So CA
Posts: 2,239
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I understand the challenge. The situation is a bit the 'cart before the horse.' If these fishes had gone through quarantine, they would be eating what you wanted them to eat. Now, they have been on their own, eating what they could find in the display tank, and now you'd like to change their diet, rather drastically. You'll have more work to do now.
You harvest the algae and live foods it was eating. Put it into the QT. If you need to the treat the QT/fish then proceed. Wean the fish to the foods you want it to eat by chopping up some of the dried algae and mixing it in with the harvested algae. Same with the pods and mysids and/or gut loaded brine shrimp. Try different colored seaweeds AND different brands of seaweeds. Try different brands of mysids and brine shrimp. Keep trying, making sure the frozen foods you try are fresh and haven't been kept in the freezer for months. Also, vary the means of presenting the food. If the Blenny was used to feeding off rocks and the aquarium wall, it may not recognize the hanging algae. Tie some (rubberband) to a fake rock and sink it into the QT. Put it in at morning lights on and remove uneaten by lights out. Repeat daily. In addition to the above, you'll need to spend some quiet time in front of the QT(s) so the fish grow accustomed to you and their new home. Sit and watch them for a couple hours a day, in addition to feeding them. Mandarins are fairly easy to wean onto other foods, if you will be patient with them and try different things. Rather than write it here, I'll reference you to articles on that subject: Mandarin Diner by Marc Levenson - Reefkeeping.com Melevsreef.com - Melev's Mandarin Diner Just a side-note: Don’t ever believe a mandarin is not possible to quarantine; don’t ever believe that a mandarin is totally impervious to Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). Ask if you have more questions or need additional ideas. Good luck!
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LEE Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.
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#3 |
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I'm just a bill
Join Date: May 2004
Location: York, PA
Posts: 467
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Thanks. It appears that tieing the seaweed to pvc and putting it in the tank worked for the blenny. Everyone else is eating as usual now. Thanks again for your help!
__________________
-Bguile Ever feel like you haven't learned crap after years in the hobby?! ![]() My 210G Build thread |
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#4 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Appleton, Wi
Posts: 11
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Since we are talking about certain fish in QT, what are your thoughts on fish like Regal angelfish and Moorish Idol. Lots of people that have been "successful" with these fish say they can't go through QT or they will starve. They suggest that only a reef tank has the food to get them eating.
What are your thoughts on this Lee? Happy Holidays Dave |
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#5 |
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Moderator - LEE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So CA
Posts: 2,239
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Dave,
You're brought up a subject that really upsets me! The Regal Angelfish is a fish I truly love and totally think that aquarists should not put in their aquarium. Let me go through my thoughts on that. 1. This fish is timid. Most large angelfishes are in the 'timid' category. Many are challenging in their own way. 2. The reef or FOWLR aquarium has just so much flora and fauna. It can't support any fish that eats pods, algae, etc. Not only is the flora a fauna in limited quantity but very importantly too is that they are not diverse enough to support our marine fishes. People who claim this is important for the fish to live are short sighted about the diversity of food found in the aquarium vs. the ocean. The marine aquarium cannot support fish life in a long lived (lifespan) that the fish could live if they were eating properly prepared and offered foods in the frequency they should be offered. 3. Any fish can be quarantined and should be quarantined not only to make sure it is disease-free but for all the other reasons I've listed in the post: A Fish Quarantine Process. One important reason is to get the fish eating properly. This I call 'trained.' 4. A wild fish released into an aquarium will not 'automatically' start eating prepared and offered foods unless it is trained to do so. 5. A wild fish released into an aquarium with some foods it can eat (like you say some others have said is necessary) ignores the offered foods and tries to count upon the food in the aquarium. This prolongs the training process (4.) and perhaps even prevents it from ever happening. The result is a fish that takes months to starve to death. Having said all the 'wrong' things, now let's look at the right things. I've quarantined more than 15 Regal Angelfishes since the early '70's. All but 2 of them survived the quarantine. All but two of those lived over 5 years (those two are still alive, just not over 5 years yet); some now 20 years old. The QT has to be large enough for this fish. Many don't do that. They think a 4" large angelfish is fine in a 20 gallon QT. NOT. This angelfish should be in a QT of no less than 39 gallons. I prefer 70 gallons. The QT should have only one PVC tube or 'cave' decoration for the fish to take refuge. It needs to be in a place of no human traffic except for the aquarist. The aquarist has to sit in front of the QT daily for no less than 1.5 hours, preferably 3 hours. The fish has got to trust and get to know the aquarist. This is something that most aquarists won't do for the large angelfishes and others that are 'timid.' But I tell you, it almost guarantees success. After the above, it is a matter of time and finding a food it likes to get it started. Some like clam on the half-shell (the last one wouldn't touch it -- haven't got a clue -- still won't eat it when I put some in the display as the others attack it). Others like shrimp flesh, gut loaded brine shrimp, plankton, mysids, etc. It's a matter of presentation as well as the choice of food. It's a matter of food freshness. It's a matter of patience. If the hobby wants that kind of success at keeping these kinds of fish (Idol included in this group) then they have to have this kind of patience, determine what foods the fish will eat, provide a reduced stress environment and get the trust of the fish by investing time. Dave, I find that people defend their lack of patience, ignorance, laziness, and inadequacy in the hobby by running out to those kinds of 'wrong' statements. So I usually just recommend that the average aquarist leave the Regal Angelfish (and Idols) in the ocean. I know they are attractive, but so are a lot of other much more captivity conducive fishes.
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LEE Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.
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#6 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Appleton, Wi
Posts: 11
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As usual, a very good and informative reply. Sorry to bring something up that makes you that upset.
Dave |
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#7 |
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Moderator - LEE
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So CA
Posts: 2,239
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Already over it!
__________________
LEE Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.
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