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Thread: anthias and ick

  1. #21
    Just Moved In
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    Re: anthias and ick

    well i screwed up already.. i was supposed to take 1 1/4 gallons out of the tank, add 1 1/4 gal of reef water, and then 1/4 cup of copper water (out of a two cup mixture)

    but i took 1 gal out and added 1 gal reef water before taking out the 1/4 gal... so then i took out the 1/4 gal and added 1/4 gal... then i added a lil less than 1/4 cup copper water. i really need to understand this copper test. i just tested it and it looks like its about the same color as 0.50

    is this right?

  2. #22
    Moderator - LEE
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    Re: anthias and ick

    Despite what may have happened, you are where it belongs! Hold the concentration at that, but no less than 0.3
    LEE

    Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.

  3. #23
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    Re: anthias and ick

    all is going quite well. I had alot of white dots on the glass floor i sucked em out, and the fish themselves look much better. I sat and discreetly watched them for 45 minutes yesterday. 1 of them keeps scratching on the rocks, but no signs of stress.

    the soon to be male is being quite the bully right now (grrr)

    My lost in the mail copper test finally found me (i bought it to use with coppersafe because it does chelated and non chelated) well thats well past due, but it reads my copper level at .5 as well so im happy.

    I had a question about qt time. After the 14 day treatment of cupramine, would you run copper and keep them in qt 4-6 weeks more for observation? Or a freshwater dip and theyre good to go? I think I already know the answer. But since im already at 4 weeks in the qt id like to free them in the reef before april lol

  4. #24
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    Re: anthias and ick

    Don't be too concerned about 'residual' flashing (scratching). I have noticed a few fish are healing from the disease and a few fish are 'annoyed' by the copper's presence.

    For the above second point in particular, and because you want to know if the treatment was effective, the copper is removed at the end of the treatment period and the fish held in quarantine another 4 weeks to make sure the treatment worked.

    For some of the reasons mentioned here: Marine Ich - Myths and Facts it is hard to tell if the parasite is truly gone or just 'hiding.' In the confining space of the QT and with time, if the parasite is still alive, it will spread and show itself to the aquarist.

    I know the temptation. But with all you and they have been through, it's best to make it worthwhile and finish the job properly. Hang in there!
    LEE

    Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.

  5. #25
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    Re: anthias and ick

    fish are doing great, alot of aggression from the soon to be male, but all is well health wise. 3 days left of copper!! *yay*

    I had a quick question. when i get these guys into the reef, I plan on getting my next fish very shortly after (my 90 looks a wee bit bare with only 3 fish lol)

    what would u suggest i do to the qt to get it ready?? since there is/was ick, copper, life gaurd, etc, should i empty it and let it dry? how long would be a safe ammount of time of leaveing it dry before ick or anything would 100% be dead?

    Im really not wanting to try bleach. im kinda clumsy and prone to mistakes and it seems like a pretty harsh chemical for a tank.

    normally i take apart everything, and run the plastic rock, all parts of the aquaclear (except pump) all pitchers, spoons basters etc thru the dishwasher on hot twice, 1 with soap one with no soap. and i rinse the tank with hot tap water for a long time. it usually sits dry for months..

  6. #26
    Moderator - LEE
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    Re: anthias and ick

    The equipment and tank should be free of Marine Ich after the treatment. However, if you used copper, the tank and equipment will have a copper 'coating.' This isn't a problem for the quarantine of marine fishes, but the equipment will be unsuitable for the quarantine of invertebrates and non-fish marine life.

    Store bought bleach is just concentrated chlorine/chloride ion which is in salt water. If you think of it that way, it is not that dangerous or difficult to use and it will help remove some of the copper. If you don't want to use it, then wash everything out with soap and water (do not use detergent or dishwater soaps -- use a mild soap like Ivory liquid). Rinse several times in hot tap water; then cold tap water; then RO/DI or distilled water. Let dry to a bone dry condition. Then it is ready again for the next quarantine of fish, but still has a very low level of copper in it that would not be good for invertebrates.
    LEE

    Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.


 
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