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Thread: RO/DI Water

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    RO/DI Water

    I just purchased a 5 Stage Deluxe RO/DI system from BulkReefSupply. Does anyone have any experiences with these, as I heard nothing but great reviews with this product.

    Also, what's the best way to store RO/DI water and how long can I effectively store it before mixing with my salt.?
    Last edited by Musbtr1pin; 02-15-2011 at 08:43 PM.

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    With that kind of investment, you want to be able to test the water. Make sure you get and calibrate a TDS meter to monitor/check your water.

    Generally, treated water can be stored in the dark for a couple of weeks. If in the light, a few days. There is just enough TDS left to encourage the growth of microbes. The more the TDS, the shorter the storage time is the rule.
    LEE

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    [QUOTE=leebca;233246]With that kind of investment, you want to be able to test the water. Make sure you get and calibrate a TDS meter to monitor/check your water.

    Generally, treated water can be stored in the dark for a couple of weeks. If in the light, a few days. There is just enough TDS left to encourage the growth of microbes. The more the TDS, the shorter the storage time is the rule.[/QUOTE

    It came with a dual TDS meter inline after the ro stage and after the di stage. Also came with a pressure gauge if that matters... I know it will help me tell when my filters as well as the TDS meter when they go bad.

    As far as storage 5 gal pale lid and in dark room? or lid on it alone good enough?

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    The lid should be on it loosely, not air tight. Just be sure to make up the new water in advance of when you need it, so it is thoroughly mixed. Like recommended here: How to Make a Successful Water Change

    Although the in-line TDS meters serve the purpose of the unit, I'd still recommend a hand-held one to test what is actually in the bucket. The in-line and hand-held unit TDS meters would require periodic calibration to a standard.

    Good luck!

    LEE

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    I just checked the PPM of the water going into my RO/DI and its at 275 PPM... Seems crazy high, as I know the well water in my development is liquid diareaha in a can. I just mixed up my first 6 gallons to do a change tomorrow.. Salinity from the tank and bucket are spot on..

    I am still cycling my tank, but I know there is a lot of die off from the rock, all 100 lbs of it.. So will this 6 gal change effect my cycle? I have heard mixed opinions?

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    IMO doing water changes during an initial cycle will prolong that cycle. I don't foresee doing water changes during the initial cycle causing any harm.

    However, when I cycle my next tank, I will not be doing any water changes until the cycle has completed. I don't see any reason to do water changes during the initial cycle.

    Just another opinion though.
    JOE

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    I agree with Joe. Water changes during cycling is counterproductive and a waste of time and $.

    If there is a lot of organic material floating around due to die off, you can run the skimmer to remove it that way. Every few days I would take a turkey baster and blow off all the rocks. Get all of those organics into the water column so the skimmer can remove them. If you have a carbon cartridge filter, you could run that too. It will do a better job than a skimmer for removing the larger solids. Just be sure to rinse the cartridges weekly to prevent beneficial bacteria from colonizing there. You want to force colonization in the rocks and sand only.

    Algae blooms are common for a while with new tanks, but there are things you can and should do to minimize their magnitude. Keep known algae nutrients as low as you can (Phosphates, Nitrates, Silicates), while ensuring that magnesium is kept within normal sea water concentrations. Low mag has been associated with algae problems. This is usually not a problem with new tanks though. Salt mixes contain adequate concentrations of mag, and it doesn't start being depleted until significant calcification occurs through coral and coraline algae growth. It's worth knowing about early on though. Manually remove as much existing nuisance algae as you can, and keep it starved of light. Be sure to keep the tank dark during the cycle, and for two weeks after the cycle has finished.

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    Water changes during the cylciing has no bearing on the cycling. If the water is 'smelly' or excessive organics are present, I would recommend performing a very large water change and continue to do so to control this feature. Beyond this, it is up to you.

    Otherwise, following these guidelines is all you need to do:
    Setting Up a FOWLR Aquarium

    LEE

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    Hey Musbtr1pin,
    I have also acquired a 6 stage RO/DI unit. I haven't found this information elsewhere, but how much water is coming out of your drain hose? For me, it is draining at a much faster rate than my output is, almost 3 times. (1 bucket of pure water for 3 buckets of drained water)
    I was wondering how fast you are draining.

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    Quote Originally Posted by simn22 View Post
    Hey Musbtr1pin,
    I have also acquired a 6 stage RO/DI unit. I haven't found this information elsewhere, but how much water is coming out of your drain hose? For me, it is draining at a much faster rate than my output is, almost 3 times. (1 bucket of pure water for 3 buckets of drained water)
    I was wondering how fast you are draining.
    Simn22 -

    Seems pretty ridiculous doesn't it? When I hooked my RO/DI up to my faucet I noticed this as well, and this is normal. What pressure "PSIG" is your RO/DI at? Mine is running at 50 PSIG and I get around a 3 to 1 ratio, as far as waste water and RO/DI go. If you are running really low PSIG you might want to invest in a pressure booster for your RO/DI.. Let me know what your running...

    PSIG = PSIA - 14.7
    PSIA = PSIG + 14.7
    PSIA = Pounds Per Square Inch Atmospheric "Absolute"
    PSIG = Pounds Per Square Inch Gauge "Calibrated to 0 PSI at atmospheric pressure" "14.7"

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    Quote Originally Posted by leebca View Post
    Water changes during the cylciing has no bearing on the cycling. If the water is 'smelly' or excessive organics are present, I would recommend performing a very large water change and continue to do so to control this feature. Beyond this, it is up to you.

    Otherwise, following these guidelines is all you need to do:
    Setting Up a FOWLR Aquarium
    I have heard something similar to this as well, except I heard that this can be somewhat good for the tank by making the cycle less "Toxic".

    I have also read in other sites and forums that this can actually help speed the cycle process up. Thoughts??

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    IMO, it's a waste of salt and your time. Unless, like Lee mentioned, you get so much die off that it starts smelling really rank.

    There's a lot you can do to screw up a cycle and prolong it, but nothing to really speed it up. I've read about quite a few people getting very fast cycles with tank transfers, but starting from scratch, you'll just have to test and wait, and it will just take as long as it takes.
    On a tank transfer, you're using well cured rock to start out with. As long as you match salinity, PH and temp from the original tank, there should be very little die off, and a fast cycle. Obviously once you've removed that much rock from the first tank, so goes it's bio filtration.

    FWIW, I think it's extremely important to wait at least an additional 2 weeks after Ammonia and Nitrites hit zero before adding any clean up crew and/or livestock.

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    It's all about the bacteria. I am a microbiologist and I can say that the others you have 'heard from' don't know what they're talking about. You may spend time listening to them, but for me, I wouldn't bother responding.
    LEE

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    Musbtr1pin-
    After reading more about the system, it IS shocking there is that much "waste water"
    I've read that you can use the water for laundry, water plants, etc... so it isnt really wasted.
    Im not sure what the house pressure is, but it is filtering at a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio.
    My TDS in is also about 750 and out <10.

    Lee-
    I have acquired cured live rock from a disassembled reef, about 50-60 lbs. It was being held in a rubbermaid storage bin with a powerhead and heater. For some reason overnight the heater was stuck on "ON" and never turned off. The next day the basement smelled like low tide and the water reached 100 degrees! Im assuming the bacteria was "cooked" and has all died? How resilient are these bacterial strains?

    Thanks

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    Re: RO/DI Water

    The bacteria used in the biological filtration system are everywhere -- land, sea, and air. They will repopulate the rock, if they were killed (which is doubtful but possible). However, at those temperatures, many other organisms may have died off (which would account in part, for the smell).
    LEE

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