Frustrated...need help.

[Baytib13]

Ok, so I've had my 36g tank running a few months now, it's already gone through the cycle. Here's my parameters

SG: 1.026
Temp: ~79
Using API test kits

nitrates: 0
Nitrites: ~0
Ammo: ~0
Ph: ~8.0

I have around 40lbs of live rock
Using a fluval 205, and aqueon 40g HOB filters.
Caribsea white sand ~40lbs

I had 2 clownfish, a skunk cleaner shrimp, a peppermint shrimp, 1 4 striped damsel, 1 yellow tailed damsel, 3 green chromis.

I did a PWC of about 5gallons, and rinsed the sponge media from both filters in the tank water I took out. I also changed the media arrangement. it was 2bags of carbon on bottom, then 2 baskets of biomax. I changed it to 1carbon,1biomax,1carbon,1biomax.

After I got the water changes done( yes I turned the filters off while I was cleaning them but I did it one at a time so as to keep filtration going.) I started the fluval back up(as I did it second) and I had a bunch of whiteish slick looking flakes..and I mean alot..it made it hard to see but after around 10 minutes this cleared up.

All seemed well that night. The next morning my gf got up to go to school, all was well, the cleaner shrimp was running around doin his normal thing..I woke up a couple hours later and it looked like the cleaner shrimp was trying to molt on top of one of the liverocks. I took a shower and when I got out he was still there so I grabbed the net and stuck it in near him, and he didnt move..so I touched him..then he broke loose of the rock and started floating in the current. So, he was dead..I checked all my levels and they were normal, so later that day my gf and I got another cleaner shrimp, an emerald crab, and a rock of a bunch of colony polyps. the lfs called them redsand polyps but theres a bunch of different kinds on it.

We got home, acclimated everything by letting them float for around 20minutes, then added about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of tank water to each one. Including the polyps(zoanthids).

The clownfish both at this point seemed to have ich, I saw white spots all over there upper body, and they seemed to be rubbing on the rocks, so I gave them a freshwater dip for around 10 minutes apiece. When I put them in the bucket(I was using a 5g bucket) they both just sunk to the bottom and would only swim when I made a sort of current. They would swim against it. After the 10 minutes I moved them back to the DT and the bigger clownfish seemed to be doin fine, but the smaller one was constantly swimming up, and when he stopped he would just sink. He did this for awhile, then he'd lay on one of the rocks it seemed like "resting" and then he'd swim back up and continue. He did this for about 3 hours..and when I was almost home with the stress coat, he died.

The other clown at this point is doing fine, but seems lonely as I think they were starting to pair up. Also, none of my other fish show any symptoms of ich at all so I have not Quarantined them yet as I'd rather get the tank set up than give them a freshwater dip, unless they show symptoms.

Now leads to my next problem that prompted this post. Our new cleaner shrimp we have had for about a day and a half..and just now died. It had been shy and slow moving..but I figured he was just getting used to his environment. Well I noticed he hadn't moved for awhile, and wasn't moving his antennae, so I grabbed the net and put it beside him..nothing. touched him with it, nothing. moved the rocks around and he started floating with the current..so he was dead too. Checked all my levels, they were in spec like normal. water temp was the same, SG was the same. As a side note, the peppermint shrimp which i've read to be the more sensitive one, seems to be doing perfect and has been molting and growing/feeding perfect since I got him.

At this point I am at a standstill as I am not wasting anymore animals lives, or money until I get this figured out. The polyps seem to be doing ok, not alot of them have opened(there's around 100, i'd say about 20 of them are opened but I've read this is normal for the first few weeks.) I also have 4 hermit crabs, that seem to be doing just peachy and are busy devouring algae.

Does anybody have any idea wth is going on? I've spent hours looking, and have nothing to go off of..the only thing I can go back to is the filters, as this was the first time I had cleaned them..what was that white filmy stuff anybody? If it helps, one of the seals/lids on the fluval had this film on it, and I rinsed it/peeled it off and it looked exactly like the stuff that shot out of the outlet and all in my tank.

Any help is greatly appreciated as this is getting extremely frustrating. I'm almost to the point of putting all the fish in the 10g with enough water from the tank, and then emptying the DT completely, doing a sand vac,and refilling it, then just moving the fish back into it with brand new water..Any opinions on this? It doesn't seem very safe to me, but I'm at a loss here.

Edit: Sorry about the novel, just felt that this matter needed as much info as possible.

Edit #2: Also, I added some purple up, a capfull of the smallest bottle, Idk if this did the shrimp in or not, but I havn't read that it could harm them.

Another Edit: Sorry remembered another tidbit, I have been squirting lemon juice at some aptasia about once a day, did this for 2 days, then a smaller dose on the 3rd as all but one massive aptasia had died off. Could the lemon juice cause problems? It's the juice from the yellow lemmon shaped bottles with the spout, as this is what I'd read to use. But, this I finished about a week ago.

[Kmoriarty]

So much is wrong with the approach you've taken. #1 you're way over stocking capacity for that small tank. #2 a 10 minute frehwater dip can't cure ich in your display tank. #3 invertebrates need to be drip acclimated for at least an hour and a half before being dropped in. That's why your cleaners are dying. They're getting PH or SG shock from the drastic water changes. #4 if your clown did in fact have ich, your main tank is full of ich...it's gonna take about 8 weeks w/o fish to fully get the ich out...there are plenty more problems but I'll let the experts chime in...that should be plenty for you to work on

[Baytib13]

I acclimated both cleaners the same way, the first one lived for almost a month, molted twice, before dying randomly..I'm not an expert, but I doubt that would be SG or PH shock. The second one very well could have been, and as for overstocking, I've read about it and talked to a few people about it, and all have said that as long as I can keep up with filtration for the bio load, etc, it should be fine as they're all small fish.

Edit: He molted once, the peppermint shrimp, who was acclimated the same way, but has been in almost a month longer, has molted twice

[chrisfont23]

I am not sure what the problem is...the filters are tough. A lot of people state that improper cleaning leads to problems. I have had zero problems with mine in 6 months, but it's truly about maintenance. If you clean them w/ your water changes, you will be fine. For starters, I would yank the filter sponges and run w/o them. Some people even use live rock in them!!! I would also ditch the HOB and invest in a protein skimmer. Finally, I would up the amount of live rock between 50 and 60 lbs. I am a proponent of canister filters, if they are maintained. I run a Fluval on my 29 gallon. I actually use a 305 because the 205 just is too light. I use it for polishing, phosphate removal and carbons on it (carbon/carbon...phosphate/carbon...biomax/biomax w/ the polishing pads on top). Water is clear. Levels are great. Fish are happy.

Now onto the fish/shrimp. Personally, I think your tank is way overstocked and the live rock understocked. For the ich... if your fish have it, don't add anymore. You are just going to get frustrated. There is a ton of literature on this site for dealing w/ ich. Just read it. As for the shrimp, is it possible your fish or crab got to him? Molting can be a sign of stress. Did you match salinity when you drip acclimated him? Did you drip him (2 hrs should be the min). SW inverts are super sensitive. That's why I don't own one. Also, are you using tap water? RO? RODI? Distilled? Tap contains heavy metals that aren't good for anything, let alone inverts. Also, do you check your calcium? Would be appropriate to add a kit now that you are stocking corals.

GL

[Baytib13]

I havn't gotten a reef testing kit yet as all i have are the polyps, but I plan on it before I get any others, and I also plan on getting more liverock, just running on a limited fund.

The shrimp I have all done the same way, I floated the bags for around 30 minutes to match temp, and then I add about 1/4 cup of water to them every 15-20 minutes, about 3-4 times, and the peppermint shrimp is going on about 2 months, the first cleaner was about a month, and then this last one was just a couple days. And the crabs I didn't have until after the shrimp had died so that's a negative on them gettin em.

I had also heard of people yanking the sponges and putting liverock in them, I had planned on doing this once I get more rock, and was going to replace the HOB with a skimmer, just again, running on limited funds.

I do use tap water, but I use tap conditioner by API, and as of now have switched to using stress coat with a couple drops of the tap conditioner. I was having a problem with diatoms during cycling, but since then they have gone away for the most part, and I have a good bit of green algae, which i know is not good, but it's not the worst, and am actually starting to get coraline algae now.

As for being overstocked, I have to dissagree as they are all small fish, and I have arranged the liverock as to give them ample hiding places, a couple caves, and plenty area to spread out in, and my filtration/CUC have been keeping all parameters under control.

[chrisfont23]

I havn't gotten a reef testing kit yet as all i have are the polyps, but I plan on it before I get any others, and I also plan on getting more liverock, just running on a limited fund.

I am not an expert, but I am pretty sure peppermint shrimp need good calcium levels to survive. A good reef kit seems like it is more important than your fish at this pt.

The shrimp I have all done the same way, I floated the bags for around 30 minutes to match temp, and then I add about 1/4 cup of water to them every 15-20 minutes, about 3-4 times

Regardless of what / how you did each time, did you match the salinity and ph levels? I think 2 hrs minimum is safe for what I have read on these guys.

...was going to replace the HOB with a skimmer, just again, running on limited funds.

Check out the AquaLife Internal Mini Skimmer 115. Might be on the light side, but it does the trick for $60 in my 29 gallon tank.

I do use tap water, but I use tap conditioner by API, and as of now have switched to using stress coat with a couple drops of the tap conditioner. I was having a problem with diatoms during cycling, but since then they have gone away for the most part, and I have a good bit of green algae, which i know is not good, but it's not the worst, and am actually starting to get coraline algae now.

I learned this the hard way. Tap water leads to issues. I am still battling mine. Use distilled if you cannot get your hands on RO or RO/DI water. In the future, invest in a RO/DI unit. That is my next purchase.

As for being overstocked, I have to dissagree as they are all small fish, and I have arranged the liverock as to give them ample hiding places, a couple caves, and plenty area to spread out in, and my filtration/CUC have been keeping all parameters under control.

As Ron Burgundy said to Veronica Corningstone, "agree to disagree." The size of the fish can be irrelevant and misleading sometimes. Its about the bioload and what your tank can handle. I had 2 Green Spotted Puffers in my brackish tank that ate like my kids. They were 3 inches each!!! They would KILL my levels if I went a week w/o a water change.

Also, not to completely kill your enthusiasm...what kind of lighting are you using? A decent T5 will cost you north of $200 and you'll need that if you start keeping (healthy) corals.

[Original Fin]

I have to agree with the others...you're overstocked and under rocked. You're not testing, and you use tap water and conditioners...this is very bad news. You have much to work on.

Spend some time reading all the stickies on this forum. It will be an eye opener for you. Whomever you've been getting your advice from...stop now, and pretend you know nothing. Read, read, read an you can turn this thing around. It's obvious why you're frustrated.

[Baytib13]

Not sure where you got I wasn't testing..as I test nitrates,nitrites,and ammonia on a daily/semi-daily routine. Only thing I havn't tested was with the reef test kit, and I have tested alk/hardness with strips, which I know are not the best, but they registered in the recommended range.

Also, I did match Ph and SG levels each time.

And I've been using conditioned tap water the entire life of my aquarium. (3 almost 4 months) and havn't had any problems due to it, the algae started getting bad bout a month ago, but I was leaving my lights on for the better part of 12 hours a day, with nothing really to clean it. Once I cut my lighting back and got a clean up crew going, everything settled down. And until this past week when I cleaned my filters, I had had no problems.

Again, on the rock. I'm on a limited budget, and rock around here is 8-9$ a pound, and even then, it's hard to get hold of it.

Edit: Also, does anyone recommend this skimmer? http://www.petco.com/product/110883/...roteinSkimmers

[chrisfont23]

Not sure where you got I wasn't testing..as I test nitrates,nitrites,and ammonia on a daily/semi-daily routine. Only thing I havn't tested was with the reef test kit, and I have tested alk/hardness with strips, which I know are not the best, but they registered in the recommended range.

You know the colors differ on a reef kit and a freshwater kit, right? Sounds like you may have a FW kit. Be careful if you do.

Your problems will iron out...no worries. Takes patience. My 250 G outdoor pond is JUST coming into it's own after 3 years. I am in the Northeast so winters absolutely SHELLACK the hell out of my pond...thats with the pond equivilant of a reef (live reeds, plants etc). It's all about time and research - what you put in, you get out.

Do some research and study up. Switch to distilled. Save some dough. Then I would invest in some more rock and a skimmer. GL.

[Baytib13]

I realize the colors differ, I have the API liquid marine fish test kit, and my brothers gf has the multi test strips, it has a chart for both saltwater and freshwater on the bottle.

Also on a side note, I have a flame scallop as well, who I've had for almost 2 months now, and is still in just as well of condition as when I bought it. I add a few drops of Zooplex every week or so. I plan on adding another drop or two now for the zoanthids.

[chrisfont23]

Peppermint shrimp. Flow. Filter feeders? Can't believe I didn't realize...just hit me. You have a power head or two - right? How's your flow? IMHO the 205 and HOB is not enough flow. Not an expert on shrimp, but thought I would throw it out there. If they are scavengers / bottom feeders, ignore. But you'll need a PH for those corals.

[Baytib13]

I had planned on getting a koralia today at the lfs, but they were sold out of the one I need, and should be getting it tomorrow. The shrimp are scavengers, the scallop and polyps are filter feeders, but they're positioned in the best flow area right now (around 250gph) and are doing well. the scallop actually stuck himself to the side/bottom of a rock, and has been there just doin his thing for the last month-ish.

rest assured though, before I go deeper into corals I'm getting adequate flow, and I have some reefbrite LED's coming in in the next week that I've had on layaway.

Also I will be looking into distilled water. The nearest walmart though is around an hour and a half drive round trip. Maybe I'll get lucky and a local store will have some distilled water that I can get in a good supply for decent price.

[Original Fin]

Not sure where you got I wasn't testing..as I test nitrates,nitrites,and ammonia on a daily/semi-daily routine. Only thing I havn't tested was with the reef test kit, and I have tested alk/hardness with strips, which I know are not the best, but they registered in the recommended range.

Not testing for Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium is what I meant. These are the major parameters for a reef. After your initial cycle, there's not much need for continuing testing for Ammonia and Nitrites. If you're still geting readings on these, something has gone wrong. I test no more than every couple weeks for these, unless something seems off, then I test as needed. Continuing to do this on a daily basis is really just a waste of time and $.
It's much more important at this point to regularly test (Weekly as a suggested minimum) test for Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium, and to know how to balance them with eachother. Also, you'll continue testing for nitrates, SG, temperature just as you always have. Lastly, test for phosphorous too. As a food source for nuisance algae, (along with nitrates) you'll want to keep it as low as possible.

And I've been using conditioned tap water the entire life of my aquarium. (3 almost 4 months) and havn't had any problems due to it,

I'd say you have. What about the inexplicable invert deaths? Even if those turned out to be caused by something else, you will continue to have problems down the road with conditioned Tap source water. If it was a FO tank, maybe it would be ok...not in a reef tank.

Again, on the rock. I'm on a limited budget, and rock around here is 8-9$ a pound, and even then, it's hard to get hold of it.

I think that's way overpriced. Have you considered dry rock from MarcoRocks.com, or Bulk Reef Supply Eco rocks? Much lower prices, like $2-$3/lb. It doesn't need to be live as long as you have live in the tank already, it will seed the rest.
We all have our different budgets we have to work within, but it's not an excuse to do things incorrectly. It's like spending all your money on car you can't afford, and then not having any money left over to maintain it. Bad things are going to happen, and it will cost you more in the long run.

Edit: Also, does anyone recommend this skimmer? Coralife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel Protein Skimmers at PETCO

No, because those types of low $ skimmers require constant attention and very frequent cleaning in order to consistently perform. If you're willing to take the thing apart every day, then go for it. Otherwise, plan on spending twise that amount for something of higher quality.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

All other issues aside, the ich is going to be the one to really test your commitment. I've dealt with it once in my display tank and also in my quarantine tank. You have to cure the tank and ALL of your fish. If one fish has ich, ALL of your fish have it, regardless if they show signs or not. Fresh water dips are useless if the fish is put back in the DT that's infested with the parasite. If you choose to do nothing, the ich will not go away on its own. All new fish additions will become infected. Some will die, just like your clown.
If it were my tank, I would first cure the fish AND the display tank before trying to fix invertebrate concerns, overstocking ( which you definately are), source water, etc...
Don't get me wrong. ALL of those other things are contributing and can be fixed relatively easily but curing your fish/ tank of ich is the tough one, especially if you don't have a QT running that's large enough and has an active biological filter that can handle the fish.
IMO, you're screwed unless you're willing to take the drastic measures needed.

[chrisfont23]

In my 29 G I have been battling some frustrations too. I am actually brining fish back to the LFS this weekend. Imagine that? Bringing them back. Asking for nothing in return but their happiness. I am doing this because the bioload on my tank is too much for it to handle naturally.

It's imperative in this hobby to think about the implications that come with not knowing. I trolled this board for months before I placed an ounce of salt in my tank. Research is the number one part of success. And I don't even consider my tank one yet. It's more a work in progress with the need to take a step back every now and then and ask if you are "doing it right."

I would start there, no?

[mk1151]

Here is my suggestion - first, everyone has an opinion. There are "best practices" and there are "right" and "wrong" but the reality is, if something works for you, then it works.

The facts are:
- most tap water is dangerous not because of the chemicals which can be neutralized, but because of the solids, but not all tap water is dangerous, as people have used tap water with success for decades without RO/DI technology in the home

- ammonia and nitrites are dangerous to fish, like a human breathing in cyanide or arsenic, so if your fish are creating more waste than your tank can handle you'll have a MAJOR problem. A protein skimmer is required, as is live rock and clean up crew.

- rules about overstocking are great but they're just rules of thumb. Common sense wins. Keep waste out, and your fish need to not be crowded and they'll be stress-free and healthy.

- not everything you buy at the LFS is healthy in the first place, so if your water quality is good and the fish that have been in the tank continue to be happy and healthy, it may not be your tank that caused your new tank members to die. There are many stickies on this forum that seem a bit stubborn and "all or nothing", but one that I do recommend following to the T is the one on picking a fish from the LFS. I can't find it now, but it details a 90-minute process on selecting a fish that has saved me from some major disasters, and even allowed me to point out issues with my LFS's livestock that THEY hadn't noticed yet.

- (this one is just mine) the bigger the tank, the easier it is to maintain. small changes minimally or negligibly impact tank chemistry and inhabitants, the bigger equipment is better designed and easier to maintain, and it's easier to put a but clean-up crew and live rock in.

Based on your description of what happened - I'd say that you need to test for dissolved solids and check your phosphate, SG, and iodine levels just to be sure there is nothing off there.

I'd also suggest NOT getting an RO/DI system - the good ones are expensive, you need to tap into your plumbing, and if space is tight you need to find a place to keep it. Plus if you rent you may not be able to properly install it.

If you can find a LFS that sells RO/DI and salt water, it shouldn't cost you more than $3.50 a week to top off/change your water for your tank. The RO/DI system would take 2-4 years to get your money back at that rate. Sometimes a little at a time is cheaper than a massive up-front cost.

Good luck to you, and I wish you and your fish friends well.

[Original Fin]

most tap water is dangerous not because of the chemicals which can be neutralized, but because of the solids

Here is just some of what can be found in tap water that is absolutely dangerous to reef systems...Nitrates, Phosphorous, Silicates, Copper, Chlorine, Chloramines. The only thing that conditioners neutralize is the chlorine. What good is knowing the TDS levels if you're not going to do anything about it?

i'd also suggest not getting an ro/di system - the good ones are expensive, you need to tap into your plumbing, and if space is tight you need to find a place to keep it. Plus if you rent you may not be able to properly install it.

Until now, I've never heard anyone recommend NOT buying an RODI unit.
If you've never owned an RODI, I can see how you might have this attitude. You kind of have to have one to fully appreciate their value.
I used to think that they are just another piece of equipment you really don't need...testing of my local RO water suppliers changed my mind. None of them were doing the filter maintenance they should be doing, and the resulting TDS, Nitrates and Phos made me consider buying my own. Plus, it was getting old going out for water all the time.
Not sure where you got the idea that they are expensive? You don't need to go for the top of the line Spectrapure systems that cost $800. $200 gets it done, and that's for a quality system. And they are not difficult to do the plumbing on at all. There are all sorts of different places and ways to tap into your water supply. Most reputable retailers are willing to walk you through all your options if you just give them a call.
Most people can find someone selling RO locally, but not RODI, and that's what you want. You can also buy normal sea water if you're lucky enough to live near the sea and you have an LFS that sells it. You still never know exactly what your getting, you still have to make all those trips, and it's a cost to operate that never ends.

[Baytib13]

Ok, so I have alot to reply to, and if I've come off as haughty or stubborn, it's because I am stubborn, but I am taking all you guys' advice.

It's hard for me to get water from a LFS, because of how far it is. (about an hour and a half or more, round trip). I've looked into ordering live rock, but had not found a site that I really trusted, I will look into the ones you suggested.

Currently I have stress coat, and am getting cupramine, or a kent/api anti-ich, medicated marine flakes, and a master reef test kit by API, as my gf went to town with her friends and is stopping by the store.

As for distilled, does anyone have an input on walmarts distilled water station? I've heard it's fine but I would like to make sure, because it is also a good length trip to and from.

The ich, right now. The only thing I can think of as of right now instead of a QT, is a 5g bucket, raised to all the same levels as my DT, temp included. With something to aerate it, and dose them with the medicine as the spots come up on the fish. I realize this is not a perfect solution, but the only one I can do right now. I will be attempting to get rid of the "pregnant" ich, and then re-introduce them to the tank. My thoughts on this, is, again this is theoretical, but after reading the myths and facts of ich, the "spots" when they appear are just before the ich is ready to fall off and then hatch eventually. By making them fall off in a different container, and thoroughly cleaning the container afterwards, eventually the ich would be gone..again this is theoretical. It's my only hope to go on at the moment, I get paid in two weeks so maybe I can get a QT started then.

also, besides the ich popping up, everything seems to be settled down in the aquarium. My thoughts on why the smaller clown died..as he was about half the size of the bigger one, maybe an inch big..I think the ich got too bad, too quick on him. and after the dip, he was just too stressed out and passed away.(I was on my way home with the stress coat )

And also, I found a little bug on the zoanthid's rock. It looked like a tiny nudibranch, but I'm not sure. It was maybe..MAYBE..1cm in size. I quickly grabbed a pair of tweezers and carefully got him off the polyps and out of the tank. Since then, I've noticed a considerable amount more of them opening.

Also, I know about the bio-load rule, that's why I check my levels so often, as I'm trying to figure out whether or not my filtration/cuc and bacteria can handle it. So far it seems they can as all levels have been stable.

If I missed anything, please let me know

Edit: What about the seaclone100 protein skimmer?

[mk1151]

Here is just some of what can be found in tap water that
Until now, I've never heard anyone recommend NOT buying an RODI unit.
If you've never owned an RODI, I can see how you might have this attitude. You kind of have to have one to fully appreciate their value.
I used to think that they are just another piece of equipment you really don't need...testing of my local RO water suppliers changed my mind. None of them were doing the filter maintenance they should be doing, and the resulting TDS, Nitrates and Phos made me consider buying my own. Plus, it was getting old going out for water all the time.
Not sure where you got the idea that they are expensive? You don't need to go for the top of the line Spectrapure systems that cost $800. $200 gets it done, and that's for a quality system. And they are not difficult to do the plumbing on at all. There are all sorts of different places and ways to tap into your water supply. Most reputable retailers are willing to walk you through all your options if you just give them a call.
Most people can find someone selling RO locally, but not RODI, and that's what you want. You can also buy normal sea water if you're lucky enough to live near the sea and you have an LFS that sells it. You still never know exactly what your getting, you still have to make all those trips, and it's a cost to operate that never ends.

I didn't recommend against getting one in general, I recommended against getting one where money is tight and it's only a 39 gallon DT, assuming quality water was available from a LFS. You paraphrased my statement out of context to the OP and my response.

I had one for a freshwater tank I had a while back and I found it to be a waste of money. The higher flow rate systems are expensive and for large water changes it was both cheaper and faster for me to go to the LFS that had high quality water and buy what I needed.

I have a marine tank now and for me it's still faster and easier to get water from the LFS both for top-offs and changes. As for cost, it would be about a 12-20 month ROI on a good high-flow RO/DI system so I'm holding off.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

I agree that there is a convience factor and upfront cost benefit (both to an extent) of purchasing source water. In defense (as a firm believer in owning your own RO/DI unit), there are so many unknown variables when purchasing source water. There could be nothing wrong with it or there could be large enough issues to cause catastrophe. I used store water machine bough RO water for a while and never had any issues (other than a sore back) but decided that overall, it would be more beneficial for myself and my tank to have a RO/DI unit available to me at all times. Should the need arise, I always have water ready for use.
In baytib's case, I think the upfront cost of a unit would be less than store bought due to the cost of driving to and from the vendor. The ROI may not be immediate but surely it would have to be less than 12 months (of course, I'm just assuming here).
Additionally, the use of a TDS meter with the unit would help verify there either is, or isn't any issues with the source water.
For me, it's a huge piece of mind and one less thing (of the very many) to worry about when it comes to marine system care.
If funding prohibits purchases, then so be it. It's funny though... We always have enough to buy the livestock that we feel we need but never have the money for the equipment we should have (myself included).

Baytib, treating the one infected fish with copper in a bucket probably won't do much because I believe the treatment time for cupramine is two weeks. Even then, you'd still be introducing the fish into a tank that already has free swimming parasites (which I'm sure you already know). Maybe use freshwater dips as temporary relief for the irritated fish until a hospital tank can be established? If you read Lee's sticky, all of the fish need to be treated for ich and the display tank needs be left fallow for 8 weeks to allow for the parasite to finish it's life cycle ( without fish to host) and die off.
If I remember correctly ( which I probably don't) the cyst can take a couple of weeks before it hatches and releases the free swimming parasite. I'd have to go back and read up on it. The method you describe sounds like there would be too much time available for the fish to be reinfected or for the parasite life cycle to go interrupted. The latter applies especially since you have other fish in the display tank.

The nudibranch is probably what irritated your zoas. I had like 5 hitchhike on a frag. Luckily the type I had was only interested in the zoas they came on. They even shared the same coloration. I was able to remove all of them with tweezers and haven't seen another in at least 5-6 months.

As far as the whole bio lead and stocking issue... Your tank may be able to handle a high load like you have but it's likely that you're right on the line between a stable tank and a crashed one. Something small could cause the whole thing to come down in flames. It's always good, IMO, to sandbag or have a safety net when it comes to balance. For example, we know the max temperature corals can handle is about 84 degrees but most keep the temp around 80 in case there's that unexpected swing on a hot day when the a/c goes out. I view stocking a tank in the same manner. I'd rather have fewer fish than the tank can handle just in case. If you can pull it off, more power to you. No one here is guaranteeing your going to crash, we're just trying to make recommendations to prevent that.

The sea clone skimmer...
I never used one but Im pretty sure they're not worth the money you would spend on them. In general, you get what you pay for when buying a skimmer. Figure you're price range and research every skimmer in that range. Read as many reviews as possible and take into account all of the information you can find. Don't try to convince yourself to get a specific one or not. Just try to figure out weather or not it will be able to do what you need it to do. Sorry. Not much help there.

Edit: just went over Lee's sticky on the myths and facts of MI and I didn't see a time frame breakdown for each parasite stage. The entire cycle can take as little as 7 days and as much as 72 days, with 60 days being in the 99th percentile.