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Removal of crushed coral, |
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#1 |
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Contributing Member
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Removal of crushed coral,
I have decided that I would like to remove my crushed coral from the bottom of my 20 gal and would like to either go bare bottom or get live sand. The problem with this is that I have been running a UGF. Would I be better to just leave it alone and let the outdated UGF do its thing? I've been worried about the buildup of detritus because my crushed coral pieces are rather large with various shells and junk mixed in. If I should go with the live sand how would I go about running my powerhead, cause the ugf setup wouldnt work with sand. If I went barebottom I might could leave the powerhead setup the way that it is. Any thoughts?
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#2 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,030
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1. Remove all livestock from your tank and put in a temporary holding tank.
2. Remove the current substrate and teh UGF (throw it away unless you have freshwater set-ups and want to use it for a back-up; keep the powerheads you use to run it. 3. Add the new substrate (if you plan to use any)and refill the tank with new ASW. 4. After the tank is clear, temp is correct and SG is correct, move the livestock back to the tank. The UGF is a bad idea but your powerhead(s) should still be used for added water movement. |
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#3 |
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Contributing Member
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Would you go with a barebottom and move the powerhead to the bottom or would you put in live sand and let the powerhead stay where it is? I'm very interested in the sand and some of the critters that make use of it. I am also liking the idea of having everything up on "stilts" and being able to get rid of the buildup. I'm wondering what are the pros and cons of the bare/sand bottoms, surely nature is more perfect than our aquarium science and you cant find a barebottom ocean floor so......
I've read the posts on barebottoms on this forum and reef central but havent seen anything that particularly made me want to do one or the other. |
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#4 | |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,030
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Quote:
Both menthods can be and are successful if the husbandry is adapted to the specific environment. |
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#5 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 22
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Scott,
What are your thoughts on Oolitic Sand beds? From what I have come to understand is that when you are using Oolitic Sand Beds you can achieve a de-nitrating effect in only 1 inch of sand. Personally I always enjoyed the PH balancing effect of crushed coral. All the LFS have recommended against using sand as it tends to clog up filters and stuff and is a nuisance when it comes time to vacuum crap off the bottom during maintenance. Sand gets sucked up easily using a python. Still it is a viable option considering that a 6 inch DSB means you likely need a 30 inch high display tank. Your thoughts? |
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#6 | ||||
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,724
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Quote:
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The same surface area of crushed coral is equal to the same surface area of finer particle aragonite sands when it comes to buffering effects and colonization sites for beneficial bacteria. A cup of fine particle sand will have many times the surface area of a cup of crushed coral; therefore, fine particle sand beds are far superior to crushed coral in this respect. Quote:
Quote:
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Ninong |
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#7 |
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Contributing Member
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This is all good knowledge but it didnt answer my question below reeflands post.
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#8 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,724
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Quote:
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Ninong |
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#9 |
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Contributing Member
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It's not to reefland it's to anyone who can answer it. Sorry I didnt mean to be rude.
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#10 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 22
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I've used bare bottom and crushed coral in my tank(s). The bare bottom is certainly easier to clean but It looks nicer having some sort of bottom. If you ever have had the opportunity to remove a thick layer of old substrate its quite nasty realizing all the heinous shmutz that gets trapped in there and it stinks like mad. Not to mention the dangers of unleashing death removing it.
I guess a reeftank might be somewhat different but if you like Puffers.... |
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#11 | |
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Contributing Member
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#12 | ||||
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,724
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Quote:
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Putting the live rock on stilts so that you can blast under them to remove detritus is a different approach altogether. This is difficult to do with a fine particle sand bed but it is possible with either a bare bottom tank of one with a shallow large grain substrate. Quote:
The biggest disadvantage is that it can make it difficult to run really strong water circulation in the average size reef tank. My tank is 120-gallons with a 6" DSB and I am limited in the amount of flow that I can run without kicking up the sand bed. I have been told by people who have 500-gal tanks with fine particle deep sand beds that they do not have that problem. Some hobbyists have experienced other problems with deep sand beds that may or may not be related to heavy metals toxicity which may or may not have been the result of poorly formulated artificial salt mixes. Other potential problems to watch out for would be a sand bed that does not support healthy, diverse infaunal populations. This can lead to clumping and other nasty complications. There are successful reef tanks with deep sand beds, shallow sand beds, and no sand beds. There are even successful reef tanks with plenums. All are different approaches and all can be effective if maintained properly. All will fail if poorly maintained.
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Ninong |
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#13 |
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Contributing Member
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Thank you Ninong, that is the information I was looking for. Infauna and Epifauna are two new words in my reef vocabulary. Gonna research them now.
Is it possible to find white or black fine particle live sand? |
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#14 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,724
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Quote:
Aragonite sand is naturally white. This is what most people use for reef tanks. Southdown (now called Oldcastle) Play Sand from the Caribbean is aragonite sand that is sold by Home Depot on the East Coast. It is very good and it is very cheap. You can probably find it near you. Black sand is NOT recommended for a reef tank. It is volcanic in origin. You really want calcareous sand (aragonite).
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Ninong |
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#15 |
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Contributing Member
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Good information Ninong....Did you go to school for any of this stuff or is this just your hobby/obcession? The reason I ask is that I would like to go to school to possibly study some sort of marine science. Thinking marine medicine. Was a psychology major with a sociology minor but my interests have changed
Last edited by Samper; 07-06-2004 at 09:10 PM. Reason: left some stuff out |
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#16 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,724
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Ninong |
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#17 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 22
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Just do a quick search and you'll read plenty of horror stories of people deciding to replace there substrate only to accidently unleash contaminants that were buried in the depths of the substrate. let sleeping dogs lie.
My Puffer comment was aimed at the FO folks. Puffers have to be somewhere near the top (if not the top) of the messiest food eater. Biting spitting food all over as the chew into dinner. I would guess my puffer eats about half of what he chews up. He just likes spitting food all over and then leaving it there for me to clean up. I dont think an Oolitic sand beds can process the crap he spits out. Unless someone can recommend some type of hermit crab the Puffer wont eat its either bare bottom or a substrate I can vacuum. I've read its possible to keep hermits with him but then theres always that story about the one puffer who died because he couldnt digest the whole hermit he swallowed. Knowing my luck that would be me. Ninong, any recommendations for substrate with FO sloppy eaters or better yet are there any "Puffer-Safe" hermits? hehehe |
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#18 |
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Contributing Member
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Can anyone here recommend some schools for marine science that I can look into?
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