[Reefer769]

can anyone recommend me a brand of some kind of chemical i should use to treat my fish from ICH in my QT.

[Penguin]

I think the name of the one I've used is Seacure copper. The key with copper is to keep the level within the effective range (.15-.20 ppm) for several weeks. You must test the levels daily. If you have too little it's not going to kill the parasite. If you have too much you'll kill your fish.

You also need to make sure you get the proper test kit for your type of copper. Chelated for chelated and non-chelated for non-chelated. I prefer the non-chelated. Good luck.

[Reefer769]

alright i am going out today to buy a 10gal aquarium, a small heater, a filter, a copper test kit, and i will try and find a good copper treatment.

what should i put in the tank though, some sand? pvc? plastic plants? i need some ideas.

[Penguin]

Don't put any sand, rock, or shells in the tank, as it will interfere with the copper treatment. Plastic things are ok. PVC pipe is ideal for a fish hideout in a QT.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by Reefer769

alright i am going out today to buy a 10gal aquarium, a small heater, a filter, a copper test kit, and i will try and find a good copper treatment.

what should i put in the tank though, some sand? pvc? plastic plants? i need some ideas.

David,

You realize, of course, that all of your questions above were answered by Scott (Reefland) in the very first reply to your previous ich thread. If you had bothered to read the references he linked for you, you would have seen this:


Copper treatment

Copper therapy is the most well established means of combating Cryptocaryon irritans (Cardeilhac & Whitaker, 1988). However, copper is lethal to invertebrates, micro fauna and micro flora. Copper is removed from solution by calcium, magnesium and organics.

Copper-based medications (some contain other chemicals in combination with copper) should only be administered in an aquarium that does not contain invertebrates, rock, substrate or other calcareous material.

Copper suppresses immune function and is highly stressful to fish. Copper is also toxic to fish, but to a lesser degree than with invertebrates. Administering a dose that is too high may kill the fish being treated. If the copper level is not high enough then the treatment will be ineffective. This necessitates testing the copper level twice a day and making adjustments as needed.

Take care to read the recommended dosage in the instructions when using any copper-based medication. The correct dosage varies with the product. Test the copper level twice a day with a test kit that will accurately measure the particular type of copper that you are medicating with. The results of using an incorrect dosage with any copper-based medication can be catastrophic. Chelated forms of copper tend to require a higher dose and they are generally less effective than the non-chelated forms. A therapeutic copper level should be maintained continuously for a minimum of three weeks.

I have personally used Cupramine™, a Seachem product, several times with "copper sensitive species" such as lionfish, puffers, dwarf angels and mandarins with impressive results. In my experience, it has been more effective and better tolerated than other forms of copper. Seachem recommends .5ppm as the correct dosage for Cupramine. However, I have used this product successfully at .4ppm. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2004/mini3.htm

[Reefer769]

thanks ninong

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by Reefer769

thanks ninong

You're welcome!

[Reefer769]

should i use 10gallons from the main tank? or should i make up 10 new gallons?

im not so sure about making 10 new gallons becuase wouldnt it have to cycle before i put any fish in? someone please help me with this one.

[Reefland]

I would do 5 gallons of aged water and 5 gallons of new water.

[Reefer769]

okay cool, that sounds like a plan thanks scott