[Rhonda.J]

Scolymia australis and cynarina lacrymalis
I just got these two new corals Thursday. I was told they were easy to care for. I am trying to find out as much info on them that I can. I have searched the net but so far haven't found out enough to satisfy me. I bought them as a Red modern coral and a clear button coral. I have researched and I beleive I found the true scientific names. The button has never opened since I got it. I placed it on the sand bottom. The red modern is opened just a little but not much. I placed it on the rocks about half way down. i did read that they prefer to be placed on the sand also. So I guess when the lights go out I will move it down. I am running out of sand space lol.

Do these corals sting and if so how aggressive are they? Should I be careful as to what corals are around them? Do you think that i should move the red modern down to the sand. It is under a 400 watt MH half way down and I am afraid it is too much light. I read they prefer low to medium light. What do you think?

[Reefland]

My research has their placement on rock substrates, commonly on overhangs and slopes. The Scolymia sp. are often found in areas with little coral coverage, which may be a hint to placement in the aquarium.

With this in mind, mid ways to lower in the water column sounds best. The translucent Cynarina may be a sign of always receiving low light and should receive more direct feedings.

Scott

[Rhonda.J]

The red modern is looking worse. Can anyone give me any advice? The button looks the same. they are both on the sand bottom now. The red modern looks like it is receding just a little in one area. Will it recover or is it doomed?

[srgtkoons]

Try feeding the modern coral a bit of shrimp or silversides. That should help with the tissue recession. If it doesnt improve over the next few days move it to a more shaded area.

[SPasse]

Rhonda.J

I keep my Cynarina lacrymalis mid level on the live rock. I is sheltered from strong current by the surrounding rock work.

This species has a wide tolerance for light level, but needs to be fed. I have the approx. the same lighting arrangement that that you do.

I purchased a specimen in December that was receding, suffering from a being in a dealers NO illuminated tank, and not being fed.

This is what it looked like when I purchased it:



6 weeks later with good light and feedings:



So I would recommend moderate light and low to moderate current with as much feeding as it will take.

Same regime for the meat coral.

Regards,

Scott

[Rhonda.J]

I have them both under the side with the 250 watt now. The button has not attempted to open since I got it on thursday. I don't know it will make it or not. The red modern has opened a little at the top but the bottom looks like it may has receded just a bit. I do spot feed my corals often but I didn't know if I should put any food on these since they aren't opening. What do you think? I also add DT phytoplanton and golden pearls. I have rechecked the water parameters.
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate under 10
phosphate barely detectable
ph 8.0 to 8.2

I am assuming it is because they are new. when the fedex man delivered them he was running almost 2 hours late so I was watching for him. when he got out of the truck he got a call on his cell phone. when he went to answer it it threw the box on it side and over his shoulder. When I opened the box water was leaking out and these two corals were upside down in their bags. Do you think they were damaged because of this?

[SPasse]

Rhonda.J,

I would try a piece of shrimp, etc to see if you can provoke a feeding response. If you don’t, remove that piece of meat so that it doesn’t “rot” on top of the coral.

The button coral in the top picture was almost 50% detached when I bought it.

Tissue damage is quite common when shipping these corals because of the sharp projections of the internal skeleton. If the shipping bag had “poke holes” from the “tissue covered” part of the coral, some tissue damage was quite likely.

Make sure you keep any hermits or large bristle worms away from a damaged coral.

Finally, could you tel me about a few of your other parameters? :

1 Specific gravity

2 CA & Alkalinity

3 Temperature

Regards,

Scott

[Rhonda.J]

salinity is 1.023
alkalinity 3.5
calcium 465
temp 80

[Rhonda.J]

The red modern looked like it might have been trying to come out and eat but it didn't. The button did nothing. I also wanted to add that the temperature is set at 80 but does go up to 85 or 86 with lights on. Also from what I have researched if I am right a salinity of 1.023 and a temperature of 80 will give me somewhere around 1.025 for specific gravity. right?

[SPasse]

Rhonda.J,

A specific gravity of 1.025 or 1.026 is what I shoot for.

How much compensation that you need to apply is dependent on what specific device that you use to measure it with.

Here is the compensation table the I created for my hydrometer.



The third row is actual specific gravity.

The 81 degree row is the reading indicated on my hydrometer at 81 degrees.

Your device has it’s own relative compensation factor.

Now we could also get into the discussion about specific gravity only having an implied associative relationship with salinity, but that is another discussion.

Regards,

Scott