[Samper]

I'm trying a new method for doing water changes. I got a 5 gallon natural springs water bottle. It's one of those that's in most offices that they turn upside down and you get water your in little dusty tasting paper cups, yeah you know the one. Anyway I"m mixing up 5 gallons of water to do a change tomorrow. For Alk and PH I'll be using kent pro buffer and for calcium I'm using Turbo Calcium. I want the levels to be perfect when I add the new water...assuming this is a good idea so if it's not the best way to go about things for my situation let me know. I'll test a few times to make sure levels are correct. For the pro buffer the recommended is 5ml per 20 gallons. I need to know a good measurement for the 5 gallons I will be changing. In drops would be the best way I could think of to measure it for something that small. Also the Turbo Calcium is recommended at an eighth tsp for 50 gallons. Once again I'm only doing 5. Anyone know of an easy way for me to measure this stuff?

[Sueet]

Why do you need to use additives for fresh-mixed sw? Is there a problem with your water? I don't add anything to my change-water except water and salt... I track my tanks, and dose if needed. (haven't needed to since I started kalk)

[saltjunkie]

i wouldnt add all that stuff.... frsh saltwater should already be stable....
i would imagine..........

[Samper]

Sadly I'm not sure the alk and Ca of my salt mix tomorrow I'm finding out.

[Sueet]

Originally Posted by Samper

Sadly I'm not sure the alk and Ca of my salt mix tomorrow I'm finding out.

Are you using one of the mass-market 'popular' salts? If so, it shouldn't be an issue at all.

[ricksreef]

i can't remember exactly, but i think putting buffer
& calcium together will give you problems. that's why
2 parts are sold as 2 parts instead of one. i'll see if i can
find the reference in my data base & post it.

[Samper]

This is what the directions say for the pro buffer.

Description: Enhanced Pro•Buffer dKH with Coralline Accelerator raises alkalinity or buffering capacity and works automatically to control pH in any marine aquarium. In addition, when used with any of our calcium additives, it encourages strong coralline algae growth. Each 16 oz. of Pro•Buffer dKH will treat 1,900 gallons or 7,200 litres.

Directions: Important: Read use & interaction below! Add 10 ml per 40 gallons aquarium capacity each day, in a high flow area of the aquarium, until target alkalinity is reached. Use along with any good calcium supplement to stabilize alkalinity in a reef type marine aquarium. Add in the morning to prevent overshoot of pH. (Cap on 16 oz. bottle equals 5 ml, Cap on 64 oz. and gallon equals 10 ml) Never mix with a calcium or magnesium solution, add to tank separately. Some cloudiness may be observed. This should go away rapidly.

Considerations for use: A pH of 8.0 to 8.3 and an alkalinity of 2.9 to 4.0 meq/L (8 to 11 dKH) is recommended for reef type aquariums (fish only marine aquariums should maintain 3.5 to 5.5 meq/L or 10 to 14 dKH) and calcium level should be maintained between 400 and 450 ppm, using Kent Turbo•Calcium, Concentrated Liquid Calcium, or Kalkwasser Mix. Test calcium & alkalinity and adjust the recommended dose for your particular system! Do not exceed 1/2 ml of this product per gallon per 12 hour period. Daily addition of calcium along with this product will yield optimum results, particularly when trying to accelerate coralline algae growth! If you have trouble maintaining calcium or buffer level, check to see that the salt mix you are using has seawater level of magnesium. To save money and increase dissolvability, some manufacturers of popular newer salts have included only half the level of magnesium necessary in their sea salt mixes, resulting in low calcium solubility and poor buffering! If magnesium is low, use Kent Tech•M Magnesium.

Regular water changes are recommended. Kent Marine Essential Elements and Coral-Vite should be used simultaneously with the calcium supplement you are using and the Pro•Buffer dKH to replace those minerals lost in protein skimming and filtration and used up by corals and other invertebrates. Tanks with heavy coral populations require additional strontium to that which is in the Coral-Vite. Use Strontium & Molybdenum Supplement or Turbo•Strontium for this. Tech•I is our new timed release iodine supplement. You will notice increased size, growth and general health of soft corals with its use. Macro algae will require the Iron supplement, as well. Live corals require strong lighting of proper spectrum and immaculately clean systems.


Ingredients: deionized water containing carbonate, bicarbonate, sulfate and borate salts with trace minerals.







It says to use the turbo calcium but just to not mix it together........I know my salt mix isnt giving me 450ppm for Calcium so I was going to put turbo calcium in my change water until it equals 450, then use the buffer to get my ph right before adding it. I'm not understanding why that would be an issue. The water that will be coming out of my tank will have the same levels as what I'll be putting in. Testing my mix now to see what basic calcium level is from my salt mix. Will post in a bit.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by Samper

For the pro buffer the recommended is 5ml per 20 gallons. I need to know a good measurement for the 5 gallons I will be changing. In drops would be the best way I could think of to measure it for something that small.

5 ml per 20 gallons = 0.25 ml/gal = 1.25 ml/5 gal = 24 drops (1/4 tsp). Just use a standard 1/4 tsp. measuring spoon from the kitchen.

Also the Turbo Calcium is recommended at an eighth tsp for 50 gallons. Once again I'm only doing 5. Anyone know of an easy way for me to measure this stuff?

1/8 tsp. = 12 drops/10 = 1.2 drops per 5 gallons. You're on your own there! I have no idea how to measure a fifth of a drop.

I have never added anything to my water change water. I simply mix the saltwater and aerate it for three or four days to allow it to mellow and then use it. I do test it for proper salinity using my refractometer but I don't bother to adjust anything else. I'm sure it would be wise to adjust all of the other parameters if one is doing a very large water change (>33%) but I do 15% water changes every other month without testing for anything except salinity. I have previously tested my freshly made saltwater and know what the parameters are after three or four days. If I wanted to be super cautious, I guess I should test each and every batch for everything before using it but I just don't do that. I'm not criticizing anyone who wants to test for everything and adjust everything before using it but it's just something most people don't do.

[Sueet]

I am also curious, what made you decide to choose that number (450ppm) as your target? Do you have hard corals? I thought you only had softies?

[Samper]

Ninong, thank you very much. I think the reason I'm wanting to know this is due to some reading I've been doing. Seems like the guys who monitor everything real close have the right idea. I know some of the best systems are the ones that are left alone. Most people want to sit back and enjoy but I feel like I should try as hard as I can to maintain as close to NSW as possible. After all I am in the hobby of caring for organisms that come from NSW. Just wanna be on top of things, also keeping a very lenghty log in a notebook. Sueet, the only reason I'm on the 450 mark right now is cause I'm trying to speed up corraline growth to fuse my rock together, it's working as far as I'm concerned. Have seen explosion of green, maroon and pink since I hit that mark. Once I'm satisfied with everything corraline related I'll slowly drop it down to 400ppm and maintain that.

[Reefland]

Originally Posted by Samper

...also keeping a very lenghty log in a notebook.

In a notebook? You mean your not using our new Online Log?

[Samper]

Originally Posted by Reefland

In a notebook? You mean your not using our new Online Log?

The log here is nice but I like to have something tangible in case the power goes out. I take it to my lfs sometimes. Anything that peaks my interest here I jot it down, when I learn new things I jot em down, anything. I also write down my observations of my system, "sightings", new life things like that in my notebook, I like to have it all here with me in case anything ever happens where I cant use the computer. I'll make it up to ya somehow . Sorry about the spelling of lengthy btw.

[Sueet]

Originally Posted by Samper

Sueet, the only reason I'm on the 450 mark right now is cause I'm trying to speed up corraline growth to fuse my rock together, it's working as far as I'm concerned. Have seen explosion of green, maroon and pink since I hit that mark.

Awesome, thanks for the info... Any idea if it will help if the coralline is being eaten? In the one tank that I have actual coralline growth (I see new splotches all over the rear and sides of the tank) I can't seem to keep it on the rocks because my crabs and urchin keep eating it! If I up my calcium, would it help the coralline on the rocks? And would it be harmful to my softies and/or fish to raise it up that high?

[saltjunkie]

10 years ago,, i followed directions on the back of bottles!
9 years ago i stopped all that stuff..........

i havent used any of that "CRAP" since really getting hard core into the hobby!
i only use B-ionic, or that other stuff advertised here.... and i have ... since i been in the hobby, only gone through 3 each of the 2 part gallon bottles.
i havent used it in months.. all my corals are good.. in fact i have had a majority of my corals since before i moved from KY to Florida almost 3 years ago..... my coraline covered my glass and rocks.. again, up until i moved in which i scraped it all off to start over...


Good luck with all that stuff and work.......

[Samper]

All I'm doing is making sure my Ca and Alk levels are where I want them constantly. I test water params every saturday but never have to do anything to them, the weekend during the month I do a water change I test once on saturday before the change, test the change water, then test the system after adding it. Clean skimmer on saturday, clean lights every other saturday, pumps once a month.Then I drip Kalk at night until water change time. Next water change I log all the levels, make sure they are all correct then I drip Kalk at night and start the process over again. It's not hard I just wanted to know for reference. I'm pretty proud of the way my system is looking here lately and it's actually relaxing for me to devote myself to taking care of it. Does this seem like too much work or in any way abnormal to anyone?

[saltjunkie]

if it is working for you and the system,.. then it must not be too much work... i know i havent ever done that much total, ever to my tank(s)

[Samper]

Originally Posted by Sueet

Awesome, thanks for the info... Any idea if it will help if the coralline is being eaten? In the one tank that I have actual coralline growth (I see new splotches all over the rear and sides of the tank) I can't seem to keep it on the rocks because my crabs and urchin keep eating it! If I up my calcium, would it help the coralline on the rocks? And would it be harmful to my softies and/or fish to raise it up that high?

I know plenty of people who maintain Ca at 450 or even a little higher without any ill effects. These guys are mostly keeping hard corals though. If you could speed it up and keep a little on the rocks I don't think that would be a problem however I'm not a "seasoned" reefer by any means. I'm hoping someone else will see your situation and point you in the right direction.

[Sueet]

Originally Posted by Samper

I know plenty of people who maintain Ca at 450 or even a little higher without any ill effects. These guys are mostly keeping hard corals though. If you could speed it up and keep a little on the rocks I don't think that would be a problem however I'm not a "seasoned" reefer by any means. I'm hoping someone else will see your situation and point you in the right direction.

Well, it's not really a major issue honestly... would just look a little nicer if the rocks would stay purple instead of white-ish/purple ... I have zero intention of getting rid of the critters... well, maybe the urchin, OUCH I stab myself on him at least twice a week, and man, that hurts alot!! But that is MY fault, not his.. I just forget how long his spines are (and apparently they're sharp, but not sharp enough to make my brain remember just how painful the pokes are)

I know the coralline is growing, as I said, I can see it on the glass, and the urchin is the only one that goes on the glass. It is growing there faster than he can eat it, so it's just the rocks that the crabs are munching that I can even tell. (I got several really large hermits, different varieties from a fellow reefer) I enjoy watching them more than I worry about the purple.

[Samper]

Since my flame hawk destroyed my crabs with the exception of one blue legged and one red legged hermit I've decided to just do without.

[fishgeeksrus]

You know, I don't add anything to my tank. I do regular water changes and drip kalk. I havent had to adjust anything yet. It is doing the best that it ever has.