[zhenya]

Oh boy! Mike, have you looked at the stain closely to see if it penetrated the flooring material or just sitting on top? Although, I am pretty sure this stuff goes through anything...
Don't give up, this flooring can be easily repaired with some carefull planing( providing you have some extra material laying around). All you have to do is pick a good size square pattern where your stain is( like lines or borders) and double cut old and new material to fit. remove old and glue in new patch and you probably won't even see the new patch. It takes some doing but can be done( I;ve done it on numerous occasions in my rental days )

Speaking of the sumps, you could probably fit a nice 30g in there, which should be plenty for the 90 gallon tank.

[Poseidon]

Thanks for the encouragement Gene... I don't have any, but maybe the park does. Or maybe I'll get lucky @ Home Depot!

[Rook]

My biggest concern is the Tunze I just purchased, it is the 6060 model. I hope it won't cause a big ol' sand storm.

I just setup a 90 with a 4-6 inch dsb. I have roughly 1000 gph running from the retrun pump and a Tunze 6060 and I don't have a problem with sand storms. There is some sand in the water column, but nothing more than is normal and it was there before the 6060. However, you are a little more limited on placement of the 6060. I have mine on one side pointing into the corner at some liverock. Although, I could use more flow, and some more random flow. I am try those Bioflows on the return pump (which is split into four ways) or incorporate a squid.

BTW, I had major problems and I am still having problems with setup. Don't give up it will work out eventually.

[almostdiva]

Originally Posted by Poseidon

PVC primer had leaked out of the closed top, THROUGH a plastic bag, and onto the FLOOR! PURPLE STAIN in a brand new FLOOR! I have tried BLEACH, and some citrus cleaner, (it is a no wax linoleum type) next I have to try something with grit like Comet or Ajax, but I think it is too LATE I think I have this stain to live with now! I am sure I will get over it soon, I have yet to call the leasing office and tell them I have ruined a floor in a house that I have lived in for only SEVEN DAYS!!!! YIKES!

Mike,

Try soft scrub cleanser (the kind with BLEACH!). IME, it gets EVERYTHING. You may have to leave it on the stain for awhile, but the bleach in the cleanser usually takes care of anything, and it is soft so it is not abraisive. Also pick up a Chore Boy sponge (that specific brand if you can get it...) with the non-abbrasive scrubby surface. These are the YELLOW ones. My bf uses them to clean his white '71 Corvette, which is all fiberglass body. He SWEARS by them and now I use them too. Good luck!

If that doesn't work, go to Home Depot, Loew's (whichever you like better) and go to the furniture stain/paint aisle. Look for a product called OOPS! It comes in a metal can (like varnish remover) I use it to take the finish off of furniture that I am refinishing, but it has multiple applications. It stinks, open a window when you use it, and try it on a tiny spot first, as it might take some of the color out of your floor.

GOOD LUCK!

Rebecca

[Poseidon]

Thanks Rebecca! I will give those a try, anything that will even FADE it to a lighter shade would be great! I was thinking that clorox bleach paste may work too...

Rook thanks for the news on the 6060, I would hate to think I couldn't use a pump I bought just last month!

Well I have decided to take out the 45, and replace it with a 30 long... That should give me more "breathing room" to clean the sump and pumps out. I really wanted the extra volume, but OH WELL!

I will post some pictures once I start actually putting the plumbing together, I am going to be working on some cardboard boxes when it comes to applying that primer... Better yet I'll GO OUTSIDE! I don't want another spill to clean up... YIKES Man that really had me worked up today, luckily the wife was very supportive, she could see I was really upset by my mistake, and didn't even make a comment about it, other then to say "its okay, it's just a floor!" WOW am I lucky!

[Poseidon]

Just a quick update, the tank is 2/3 full and is clearing nicely. The plumbing is done, and of course the sump in place. I put in 200lbs of "playsand from the caribbean" from old castle and a couple of Hagen "quick filters" attached to 2 402's there is also a heater in there. It looks pretty bare! I work first shift this week so maybe I can actually move my livestock! One thing after another has set me back day by day, I was really hoping to get everything moved in this weekend, but it is taking LONGER then I remember for the tank to clear. Guess I should have expected more then 48 hours.... Oh well.... I have pictures, and I will post them soon, but now BEDTIME! 5am comes pretty fast!

[zhenya]

Originally Posted by Poseidon

5am comes pretty fast!

You bet! It seems I can't fall asleep before 3 am lately and I have to be up by 7 am as well... but than again I'm old so sleep is not all that important to me...

[Poseidon]

Well.... The move is done. I went over to the old house yesterday afternoon to add fresh water, and found the Naso had slight cloudy eyes, also was acting strange. The tank has been operating the last week WITHOUT the sump or skimmer, I had removed my overflow to set it up at the new house, same with the skimmer, the only circulation in the tank was my Tunze 6060, and a heater. The lights were still on schedule and I had kept the water topped up, but I must have waited to long to bring the system back online, I had a lot of scum floating on the surface and a definate odor. The sump had been running the same way, with a powerhead and heater. Well I made the decision to move everything yesterday! I didn't want to wait to long and start losing things, so the process began!

First, I moved approx 32 gallons of water from the old tank (OT) to the new one (NT). This in conjunction with the fresh ASW I already had in there was ALMOST enough to start the sump. I made a second trip to the OT and removed as much of the sump water as I could and added it to the OT. I let the waters circulate and mix for about 15 minutes, I could see an immediate improvement in Polyp extension on the birdnest coral and the Milli. That made me feel a little better. Then I removed an additional 20 gallons of the new mixxed sump and tank water to get the NT running.

Second, Okay I am back at the NT and getting ready to test my plumbing and get the system flowing. I had filled the main chamber of the sump already with the previous water, so I only needed to fill the end chamber of the sump to get things going. The additional water was EXACTLY what I needed to get the thing going! At this point I start to think things may turn out okay! Then I decide to get the skimmer going! On the OT the skimmer was EXTERNAL, located about 4' above the sump on a shelf. In the NT the skimmer is in the sump, and the MAG 12 is connected to it by only 12" of clear vinyl tubing. I had made a platform out of eggcrate to raise the skimmers output above my proposed water level. I opened the gate valve all the way on the skimmer so that I didn't flood anything, plugged in the pump and watched! To my dismay the water level kept rising and rising and rising in the reaction chamber, to the point where it flooded the collection cup. Back to normal for this project, another setback! This one was easy fixed, by adding a ball valve to the MAGs output but still....

Third, Okay the NT is up and running, the skimmer is running properly and the power failure tests are successful! The only concern is I can not run the return wide open do to the velocity that it leaves the PVC at, it causes such a turbulent surface that water was actually coming out over the side... I solved this by adding a T connection to the output with a 45 on each end, I can now open the output a little more without causing the mess. Twice the area for the flow to exit, reduced the velocity, but INCREASED my volume... I know there is a law in Physics for this... Bernoulli perhaps? Anyway back to the move.

Fourth, Picked up some extra muscle power (Hymie069, THANKS A TON!!!) and went back to the OT. I removed my 2 largest pieces and placed them in 32 gallon brute container to move to the NT, I also used 4 additional buckets to move my other SPS and favorite LPS, like Galaxia, Hammer etc. I also brought 2 buckets of just live rock, I moved the few pieces without any polyps (at least ones I didn't care about much) dry. These 2 buckets were added to the NT first. Then I carefully arranged the corals in the 32 gallon can so I could acclimate them and free up some more buckets for a 2nd trip. I started the acclimation process before heading back to the NT.

Fifth, this trip was for the fish, remaining corals, and the Macro algae in the sump. As I removed the remaining pieces from the tank, I removed any unwanted algae and inspected for any crabs or Mantis shrimp. I did NOT find any! I hope that means their GONE, but we will see! I managed to get everything EXCEPT my birdnest coral on this trip. It is still back at the OT, with the LIGHTS! I figured that everything would be okay for 1 day without the halides in place, it may even help them recover from the move to be in the dark a bit.

Sixth, by this time it is now about 11 PM! I had started the project at about 3:30. I acclimated and placed everything in the tank in a rushed manner. Being that I had to be here, (work) @ 6 am I wanted to get some sleep. By 1 AM I had placed the last piece in the tank, but NO AQUASCAPING to speak of. My only concern last night was to get everything in the new tank, I will do the decorating after the lights are placed. Which brings me to....

Seventh, How should I mount the LIGHTS!? I have a canopy that is hinged at the back so opens up and back. Will a MH bulb be damaged if I open the canopy while the bulb is lit? I would be moving the lit lamp from a horizontal to vertical orientation I don't know if that would cause a pre-mature failure or not. Also I want to be able to remove the canopy easily, so I need to carefully route the wiring so that I can pick up the canopy and place it on the side of the tank. I have already mounted some brass handles to the canopy so I have something to hold onto. My theoretical solution so far is to install some sort of plug between the ballast and the bulbs. That would allow me to UNPLUG the bulbs before I REMOVE the canopy, WITHOUT any dangling wires attached to the ballasts! If I can locate my ballasts AWAY from the bulbs and canopy I know that would be MUCH better! Plus I have to allow space for 3 timers and such... UGH! I think this is not going to be EASY! If anyone has a suggestion for what kind of plugs I can use I sure would appreciate it!

The worst part to me is, that I didn't take a SINGLE PICTURE of the actual move! I was so absorbed and concerned about the fish that the camera was the furthest thing from my mind! I was really hoping to document the whole thing, that was the point of this thread! Hopefully I was descriptive enough to help someone else out, and I will post what pictures I did take of the set-up in an upcoming "documenting" thread.... I will be posting the final stages of the move soon, I get out of work at 2:30 and will start the light mounting process soon after I get home!

[Poseidon]

Well it looks like I am going to have at least one casuality, my Naso tang. He has developed serious cloudy eye, and has a small area that looks like ICK! YUK! I guess this proves the parasite lives in our tanks all the time, and just comes out in times of stress. I am going to pick up some selcon and garlic, hopefully he will come around, but I am not very optamistic (sp?)....

[zhenya]

Hi Mike,

Sorry to hear about your Naso...

As you know, moving can be very hard on the critters so I hope he'll pull through for you and everyone else as well.

I read your previous posts and man, that sounded like a lot of things went not exactly the way you planned... I don;t know what I would do if I had to move,probably just sell everything and start from scratch...
Keep updating us on what's going on, please.

[kevinpo]

Hi Mike,
I think the Naso should recover as long as he was healthy before.

As for the lights the MH bulbs will burn OK in the positions you describe. The problem is going to be that they can be damaged just from jarring no matter if they are on or off. I have jarred many without any failures (that I know of) but the company instruction manuals always warn about it. Moving tanks can be such a pain

Regards,
Kevin
PS: PFO makes quick disconnect cables for MH's.