[nitratehater]

I just set up my new tank three weeks ago. I have 80 lbs of LR. 40 was cured and only transferred from the old tank, the other 40 was cured and only out of water for about 3 hours when transferred from a friend's. it's been up and running for a little over 3 weeks and there was very little cycling. the only thing that was new was the sand (50 lbs) (it's a 65 gallon tank) I used Seachem Stability for the first 7 days as directed. just now i'm starting to notice the light covering of brown algae covering the sand. What part of the cycle, if at all, is this? Also, my nitrates are reading just above 12.5 mg/l. i just now started my skimmer for the first time, as well as the UV sterilizer. I did this so any cycling and establishing of the biological filter in the brand new sump/bio balls and sand could occur normally.


My problem is, and has always been Nitrates. Is it too soon to worry about this reading of 12.5mg/l or more? Will this stabilize and or drop in the weeks to come? Today I did the first of weekly 5 gallon water changes.

Should i expect the Protein skimmer (nautilus TE-Kent) to lower nitrates?

Also, I've just come across a Nitrate reactor made by Aqua Medic. Are these things worthy? Is it a worthwhile investment for me?

My future plan is to slowly remove my bio balls and replace them with rubble in my sump.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[Meric]

If you are going to keep only fish nitrate readings below 100mg/l should be safe. Most Invertabrates (Non Corals and Clams) should be able to handle a nitrates below 25mg/l. Below 12 for more sensative inveratabrates.

I use a Refugium filled with Culerpa Aglae (Grape Culerpa) that keeps my nitrates below 5mg/l.

Regular water changes and Macro algaes are the best way to reduce nitrates and keep them in check. I've been told that a deep sand bed (Greater than 4" deep) can also reduce nitrates.

More important readings would be Ammonia (NH3/NH4) and Nitrites (NO2), these should be 0 before adding any live animals to the tank.

A protein skimmer usually removes DOC's and Proteins from the water. I do not believe Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates are considers DOC's or Proteins.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by nitratehater

I used Seachem Stability for the first 7 days as directed.

That was a completely unnecessary expense. There is absolutely no reason to add bacteria to a tank that is being set up with live rock. Most of the products that are hyped as being beneficial are really a waste of money.

just now i'm starting to notice the light covering of brown algae covering the sand. What part of the cycle, if at all, is this?

Diatoms are part of the natural progression of algal blooms that one experiences in the initial cycle. This phase usually passes in about 10 days or less. I believe my diatom phase was completely gone in about ten days.

Also, my nitrates are reading just above 12.5 mg/l. i just now started my skimmer for the first time, as well as the UV sterilizer. I did this so any cycling and establishing of the biological filter in the brand new sump/bio balls and sand could occur normally.

Your nitrates are fine. I wouldn't worry about them. I wouldn't use any remote biological filtration (bio-balls) in a tank that is being set up with live rock and a sand bed.

My problem is, and has always been Nitrates. Is it too soon to worry about this reading of 12.5mg/l or more?

You DON'T have a problem with nitrates. Your nitrates are perfectly fine at this stage of the game. Many people run perfectly successful reef tanks with nitrate readings of 15 mg/l. It is BETTER to get the nitrates down as low as possible, especially for SPS dominated tanks, but that takes time. My nitrates didn't get down to the 2-3 mg/l range until after the tank was set up for several months.

Should i expect the Protein skimmer (nautilus TE-Kent) to lower nitrates?

Yes, protein skimming lowers nitrates.

Also, I've just come across a Nitrate reactor made by Aqua Medic. Are these things worthy? Is it a worthwhile investment for me?

I wouldn't use one. I don't think they are necessary for tanks with live rock.

My future plan is to slowly remove my bio balls and replace them with rubble in my sump.

Yes, removal of the bio-balls would be a good idea in my opinion.

Good luck!

[nitratehater]

Ok. I don't think the "stability" hurt anything. I thought it would speed up the cycle and help establish. I saw no ammonia spike or nitrite spike. anyway, that's Water under the bridge...

About the Live Rock rubble that will replace the bioballs. i'm guessing that i can't "trickle" over that like over the bio balls. Does it have to be completely submerged? if that's the case, I wouldn't be able to put nearly as much LR as bio balls. It would be cool if it can simply be put in place of the bio balls and have the water trickle over it from the drip tray.

How slowly and when can I convert to the LR in the sump?

Thanks for the great advice!

[vtec si]

When I took the bioballs out I did it over a month if I can remember correctly. I took a fourth out evry week and then placed in the LR. I got a small algea bloom during this time but nothing out of control.

I have since got rid of this set up and went with a refugium.

Martin

[nitratehater]

...but does the live rock have to be completely submerged, or can i trickle over it just like the bio balls?


thanks, mike

[vtec si]

I kept mine well submerged! Had to add between 1-1 1/2 gallons of RO water evry day to keep it under water.

Martin

[ibjmg]

my question is this how much rock rubble should you have in a say"45gallon sump


jerrod

[ibjmg]

how much rock rubble should I have in a 45 gallon sump

right now I have 1 inch of live sand


thanks jerrod

[ick sucks]

I would not simm during tank cycling as the bactiria use docs as food(wich your skimmer removes)Unless i missed it and you already have fish in the tank then skimm.