[rebrob]

OOps

6) alk hypothesis - I don't think the alk is the cause, but the over dosing from the B-ionic is what i am thinking. I placed about 90 mls everyday for many almost a month in there because i thought the alk was low, based on my old testor. My assumption is that by letting the tank settle, controlling phos and silicates, and doing water changes we might have a solution.

[ldrhawke]

1) Skimmer -

A skimmer is not a chemical or biological process. It is physical. The bubbles attach and float out waste into the cup. Set the ER slide tube so the water level inside the skimmer is at the level where the tube necks down just below the cup bottom. The skimming rate will vary with waste load it sees. Allow it a couple of hours to stablize. At first the cup may load up quickly if you have a high nutrients waste load and you may need to empty the cup a couple of times an hour. After the flow stabilizes try to set the over flow tube so it removes about a cup a day. A very slight adjustment, 1/4 inch, in the slide tube height can make a dramatic change in bubble overflow into the cup. A skimmer is the best waste removal tool you have. The ER is a good skimmer..........see my web site on my modifcation of my ER and the kind of load you want to see in the cup.

2) sponge - .........Throw the sponge away.

3) I keep a rowaphos and carbon filter (occasionally) in the sump to filter out that stuff)........use it all the time.


My main filtration is my live rock, and it has done a great job of filtering nitrates and such....................yes it does on nitrates but not on phosphates. That is why you need to keep the Rowaphos filter in operation and have good tank circulation to bring the most waste possible in contact with the skimmer..


3) i did use red slime remover last week (before i noticed the alk issue), but it did nothing noticiable. So i backed off.......I am surprised it wasn't more effective. My last out break was knocked out in 24 hours using it.

4) I'll get a lower lever phosphate kit. ...just use the RowaPhos filter all the time to help draw the stored phosphate out of the substrate and rock.

5) i'm only feeding once a day. one small mysis cube. should i cut that down? ........That sounds fine if the fish eat it all.

[rebrob]

Ok. I've done everything you guys have suggested. I even took my water to a LFS. I have water changed about 3 times since my last post. I am loosing fish and i have NNOOOO idea why. The LFS said the water levels were great, except about 30 ppm of nitrate. I have done 2 water changes since then, and nothings seems to have affected anything.

I blasted all the redslime with a power head, but keeps growing back. I am really getting annoyed and i have no idea what is wrong. Recently, i tested:

Nitrate - 10ppm
Alk - 9 dkh
ph - 8.5 (in the evening (right now))
Calcium - 450 ppm

I change my skimmer cup about once to twice a day.

New Hypothesis:
I have a lot of bubbles the size of a milimeter flying around, which i have had for some time (a few months) but i think i used to not have so much. I issolated their influx from the magdrive in the sump. Just today i tried turning it off for about an hour and just having the maxi-jets run. I got a lot less bubbles flying around. So here is my thought, could these bubbles be acting like a skimmer IN THE TANK. Cause junk to rise and instead of going into a skimmer up to be removed, they just sit on the top, where i currently see a lot crap. However, my nitrates are lower now, but my slime is still growing. I am at a loss.

I am providing these photos. Keep in mind, i waterchanged today and syphoned. Note the explosion of bubbles.

Sorry for such the long post, but i want to give the pros out there as much help as possible.

[rebrob]

the files are in my photo gallery under rebrob. I couldn't figure again how to drop them in a message.

[ldrhawke]

Originally Posted by rebrob

Ok. I've done everything you guys have suggested. I even took my water to a LFS. I have water changed about 3 times since my last post. I am loosing fish and i have NNOOOO idea why. The LFS said the water levels were great, except about 30 ppm of nitrate. I have done 2 water changes since then, and nothings seems to have affected anything.

I blasted all the redslime with a power head, but keeps growing back. I am really getting annoyed and i have no idea what is wrong. Recently, i tested:

Nitrate - 10ppm
Alk - 9 dkh
ph - 8.5 (in the evening (right now))
Calcium - 450 ppm

I change my skimmer cup about once to twice a day.

New Hypothesis:
I have a lot of bubbles the size of a milimeter flying around, which i have had for some time (a few months) but i think i used to not have so much. I issolated their influx from the magdrive in the sump. Just today i tried turning it off for about an hour and just having the maxi-jets run. I got a lot less bubbles flying around. So here is my thought, could these bubbles be acting like a skimmer IN THE TANK. Cause junk to rise and instead of going into a skimmer up to be removed, they just sit on the top, where i currently see a lot crap. However, my nitrates are lower now, but my slime is still growing. I am at a loss.

I am providing these photos. Keep in mind, i waterchanged today and syphoned. Note the explosion of bubbles.

Sorry for such the long post, but i want to give the pros out there as much help as possible.

Fish kills.....Neither the bubbles. the cyno, nor the nitrates are going to kill fish. Your fish are dying from something in your water changes. Call your water department and find out if they are using it to treat your drinking water. It takes a special Hach test kit to test for chloramine which is deadly to fish in very low doses.

Are you using a carbon filter on your make up water? What is SG of your water.

Cyano......I don't see where you have tested for Phopshates or are using anything to remove it.

[rebrob]

phosphates are at 0. I started using a rowaphos in the sump and my test and the low end phosphate test at the lfs said 0

My ro/di, i thought uses a carbon filter - it is a maxxima hi-s.

What is "sg"?

[Reefland]

Specific Gravity or Salinity.

[ldrhawke]

Originally Posted by Reefland

Specific Gravity or Salinity.

Interchangeable.... that's like asking C ot F in temperature

What percent water changes are you making?

Cyano....When did you replace all your RO/DI filter cartridges last?

[rebrob]

1.025

usually about 5-10 gallons

because my house water is prefiltered from my water softener and additional large micron filter before hitting the ro/di , my cartridges look in great shape. But i did replace the Silicamax a week ago.

I have not replaced my RO filter or the first two cartridges in 9 months. I could replace the 1st two, but they look white, pure as they were bought. A few people have told me that that is because most of the stuff they filter is being taken care of by the softerner and house micron filter.

[ldrhawke]

Originally Posted by rebrob

1.025

usually about 5-10 gallons

because my house water is prefiltered from my water softener and additional large micron filter before hitting the ro/di , my cartridges look in great shape. But i did replace the Silicamax a week ago.

I have not replaced my RO filter or the first two cartridges in 9 months. I could replace the 1st two, but they look white, pure as they were bought. A few people have told me that that is because most of the stuff they filter is being taken care of by the softerner and house micron filter.

The SG is fine.

With a 72 g tank plus, that is no where near enough of a water change have a reduction effect if you have a water problem. You need to change out 25 to 50% of your water every two weeks.

Change out your DI and carbon filter cartridges. The white filters are only particle filters. If they look clean they are probably still OK. I take it the Silicamax is a DI cartridge. If you have chloramines in your water, only the carbon filter will have any effect at all, and it is not fully effective in removing chloramines in the water.

Check with your water department. I have a small, 250 g KOI pond at my front door. I added 10 gallons of make up water one day and all the KOI., which I had for 5 years, died within hours. I later found out my local water dept had after a power outage added a heavier dose of chloramines to the stagnant lines and for disinfection. Chloramines are fish killers. A fresh carbon filter will help, but it won't totally solve the problem.

[rebrob]

I'll call the water company.

the silicamax is the di

1) the carbon filter says to replace after 3500 gallons or 6 months. it is clearly older than 6 months, but i maybe run 20 gallons a week = 1040 a year. That doesn't even touch the 3500 gallons. It is still white. I'll change it if you still think i should

2) if i have activated carbon in my sump, shouldn't that pick up anything the filter didn't get from the water?

3) water changes - i did do three water changes within a week = a total of 15 gallons = around 20 %. I can do more.

[ldrhawke]

Originally Posted by rebrob

I'll call the water company.

the silicamax is the di

1) the carbon filter says to replace after 3500 gallons or 6 months. it is clearly older than 6 months, but i maybe run 20 gallons a week = 1040 a year. That doesn't even touch the 3500 gallons. It is still white. I'll change it if you still think i should

2) if i have activated carbon in my sump, shouldn't that pick up anything the filter didn't get from the water?

3) water changes - i did do three water changes within a week = a total of 15 gallons = around 20 %. I can do more.

A filters life is dependent upon loading rate, I would go by the time in the either 6 months or 3500 gallons. Your are probably using over 1000 gallons a year just for make up water from evaporation, without even taking water changes into account.

if you have cyano or green algaes they are simply and indicator. Their bloom is telling you that you have excess nutrients in the water column which is feeding them. The bacteria and algae does not harm the fish unless it suddenly dies and pollutes. In fact, their presence is unsightly, but they are benefiting the system by feeding on excess waste and removing it from the water column. It is simply telling your nutrient and waste loading is out of balance compared to a normal reef.

Getting a system out of balance can take months or years. Getting a reef system back in balance can take almost as long if you don't want to cause dramatic changes, which can cause a whole new set of problems. Right now you have excess nutrients in your system......you need to export more and reduce import.

You accomplish import reduction by only using RO/DI water, with good cartridges, reduce feeding levels, and reduced fish load.

You increase exports with good skimming, daily filter media changes, use adsorbtion filters (carbon and iron), aeration, water changes, algae removal.

If your DI filter was spent before you changed it out, you have a tank full of excess nitrates, phosphates, and silicate. It will take 3 or 4, 50% water changes to signicantly reduce their concentration and get it back under control by reducing the excess in the tank. This is probably the cause of your cyano problem.

A carbon filter in your tank only removes toxic elements... after...your tank life has been exposed to it. A carbon filter on the incoming water eliminates it before it is put in to the tank. Running a carbon filter in the tank is a good thing, but I would change out the carbon in the tank. It is probably what saved you from not losing more fish. Also, be aware some carbon contains excess phopshates. You should soak and flush the carbon with RO/DI water before putting it i n the tank.

I would not do any more water changes until you have eliminated the possiblity of your water being toxic, either from chloramines or heavy metal (copper); both of which are highly toxic to marine life.

The most positive way is to get a large garbage can to make up fresh salt mix and recirculate all the water for a week through an a carbon filter before you use it to make a water change. Or...you can continue to support your LFS with purchasing new fish as quick as you kill them off.

[My2heartboys]

Originally Posted by Reefland

For the sponge, I would build it into my routine to clean it weekly, despite it's looks it has to be holding waste.

I think it would also make sense to change the sponge now and then again once you see that the cyano is gone. Reason being is that it can harbor cyano spores just waiting for the right circumstances to start blooming again. What kind of sponge do you use? Is it just primarily for biomedia?

Anne

[Reefland]

Originally Posted by My2heartboys

I think it would also make sense to change the sponge now and then again once you see that the cyano is gone. Reason being is that it can harbor cyano spores just waiting for the right circumstances to start blooming again. What kind of sponge do you use? Is it just primarily for biomedia?

Anne

You can never get rid of cyanobacteria "spores", they are available everywhere, always. Still wouldn't be a bad idea to be more proactive with the sponge though.

[My2heartboys]

Originally Posted by Reefland

You can never get rid of cyanobacteria "spores", they are available everywhere, always. Still wouldn't be a bad idea to be more proactive with the sponge though.

Thank you--that does seem logical now that you would say it. Sorry, I'm only trying to do three things at once here (dishes, keep up on posts, and changing water in my tank).

Anne

[Reefland]

Sounds like your busy. No problem at all, just wanted to clarify.

[My2heartboys]

Yeah, to top all of that off, I had a red slimey spot on my sand so I had to vacuum it up. Not to mention that I had to take the drip shield off of the lights to get the ##### salt creep off of it. Talk about a job and a half.

Anne

[Reefland]

Originally Posted by ldrhawke

Interchangeable.... that's like asking C ot F in temperature

What percent water changes are you making?

Cyano....When did you replace all your RO/DI filter cartridges last?

Yeha I know. I was replying to rebrob who asked "what is sg".

[rebrob]

i removed the sponge completely as per the advice in the post. I do think i am narrowing to the ro/di water, but i am still not sure.

Also, no one said anything about the tiny tiny bubbles in my tank. They are floating everywhere. I am wondering if it is from my mag drive or the connection, since when i turn it off, the number of bubbles decreases.

Do you guys have lots of tiny bubbles in your tanks?

[ldrhawke]

Originally Posted by rebrob

i removed the sponge completely as per the advice in the post. I do think i am narrowing to the ro/di water, but i am still not sure.

Also, no one said anything about the tiny tiny bubbles in my tank. They are floating everywhere. I am wondering if it is from my mag drive or the connection, since when i turn it off, the number of bubbles decreases.

Do you guys have lots of tiny bubbles in your tanks?

The "Lawrence Welk Syndrome".......tiney bubbles in the air :slap:

When you removed the sponge you probably made the bubbles production worse. It was most likely there to capture the bubbles. The problem is a sponge is a nitrate factory that you don't want.

The bubbles are water flow problem cause by where your return pump is located and how it is fed. If the water is directly falling into the pump over a weir it will see entrained air. You need to set up your recirculation system so the water flows through a stilling area which allows the entrained air in the return water to dissipate. That was probably what the sponge was doing. Most people go through a series of baffles and reduced velocity zones in the return system. It is a matter of playing around with the return pump location to find the best spot that has little entrained air in the water for the pump suction.