[cichlidfort]

I have a PC 220 watt Jebo lighting system on my 55 gallon tank. I was just wondering if this is enought light to support a Hammer Coral. A hammer coral is a softy and many told me I would be able to support most softies. Is this true?

Thanks

[zhenya]

Originally Posted by cichlidfort

I have a PC 220 watt Jebo lighting system on my 55 gallon tank. I was just wondering if this is enought light to support a Hammer Coral. A hammer coral is a softy and many told me I would be able to support most softies. Is this true?

Thanks

I think you will be able to support this coral if you place it somewhere near the top ( that is just about the lighting). BTW, hammer coral is not a softie by any means, it is a hard, stony coral.
E.ancora.

[cichlidfort]

ITs a lps than right? How do you tell by looking at it or do you have to see the base of the coral to tell. Because its soft to the touch.

So if I place in good flow, near the top, with good water paramters, it will do good? It just won't barley survive or never grow but will ok but nothing like it would under MH right?

[vtec si]

Yes, hammers are LPS ( Large Polyp Stony). You can tell by the hard skelton branches or base which softies do not have.

Martin

[Jeff Sr]

First thing a hammer coral is a stony coral the lighting is ok provided you place it mid to high in the tank. Plus it needs plenty of water flo. May be new to this site but not to the hobby. 15yrs. 180 gal. full blown reef tank.

>>First thing a hammer coral is a stony coral the lighting is ok provided you place it mid to high in the tank. Plus it needs plenty of water flo. May be new to this site but not to the hobby. 15yrs. 180 gal. full blown reef tank.<<

As far as my collection of aquarium books goes, including my own, none of them suggest high light or water flow. Having done population studies in the field on this genus, as well, I will say that high light and water flow areas are almost certainly going to be devoid or nearly devoid of any Euphyllia. They tend to be found in very calm waters, lagoons, reef slopes and sandy/silty bottoms in deep water and the collection areas can be as far down as 120-150' - but sometimes in as little as 20-40'. The water clarity is usually turbid except where on a slope or in deep water, indicating that low to moderate light is probably more indicative of their natural habitat. They are also common on shipwrecks - I am not sure why some species do well on wrecks. What they can tolerate is another story. I, too, have put mine up high in tanks and they have done well, but never in strong water flow or the tentacle remain contracted and/or tend to form sweeper tentacles.

[BubbaWPB]

My euphillias did well when I only had VHO lighting (10K, 420nm, 460nm). They are not totally dependent on photosynthesis either - they do like meaty treats.

Putting euphyllias in a high flow area is a bad idea, in my personal experience. It makes their tentacles grow VERY long (over a foot) and they sting the living heck out of anything they touch. Medium to low flow is adequate for the euphyllia and much better for just about everything else in your tank.

[cichlidfort]

Wow, thanks for all the input guys. I think I want this coral. I know just a perfect spot in my tank that is mid to high level with less flow.

[kevinpo]

Hi Eric nice to see you here my friend.

I have grown many of the Euphyllia (and even spawned a few) and found they are very adaptable but do best under moderate lighting. 12-16" below PC or VHO's and 24-30" below halides. They will have the best polyp extension in low flow conditions. The polyps should sway gently back and forth. High flow will strip the polyps off the coral. I have fed mine small (pencil eraser size or smaller) pieces of raw shrimp or not fed them at all. They only difference I observed was growth rate of the fed ones increased dramatically. A fairly easy coral to keep not too demanding in regards to water quality (will tolerate 10-20ppm nitrate). It is a good coral for propagation rather than collection as once established in the aquarium it is quite hardy and easily cut.

Regards,
Kevin

[cichlidfort]

Thanks a lot Kevinpro. I am pretty confident that I should get one of these guys.

[gregb]

I like the expert input on this forum, it makes me feel all warm inside.

[cichlidfort]

Hey guys I got the hammer coral today. I want to know if a clown will host this coral. Also can you feed it small pieces of meat like an anemone?

BTW, I got a Condy the other day. I know. Its mean, and bad to the bone but oh well. Its small and I am experimenting with it.


Thanks

[Steven Pro]

The clown might host in the hammer, but it is probably not good for either. The constant, unnatural physical trauma of a clownfish flaying around in it could damage the coral while clownfish sometimes develop black spots/blotches from hosting in corals.

[cichlidfort]

Originally Posted by Steven Pro

The clown might host in the hammer, but it is probably not good for either. The constant, unnatural physical trauma of a clownfish flaying around in it could damage the coral while clownfish sometimes develop black spots/blotches from hosting in corals.

Today when I turned the lights on, the Condy was in a red ball with no tentacles out. Then they eventually came out but are shorter than usuual. How long does it take a Condy to stretch all the way out?

So far the Hammer looks pretty good. Can you feed it pieces of meet?

[BubbaWPB]

Yes, you can feed the hammer pieces of "meat" (fresh frozen thawed seafood), but make sure it is small, and don't be surprised if at first (few weeks or so) that it spits it out.

Anemones can take a few days to a few weeks to feel comfortable in their new surroundings. Inflation/deflation of anemones has a lot of variables (feeding, flow, irritation, chemistry, etc.).

[dreams]

like a mysis size shrimp?....do you need to feed each head?

[cichlidfort]

Thank you BubbaWPB. It seems like my anemone has deflated. I fed him today a small piece of shrimp and it ate it readily.

When I get some of my new test kits in I will tell you my parameters.

Thanks

[cichlidfort]

I noticed that when the lights go out, the hamme coral stretches its "hammer tentacles." When you turn the lights on it retracts them.

Is that normal?

BTW, my condy anemone was disposing of its waste in a gooey form. I guess thats the shrimp I fed it a couple days ago.

[kevinpo]

Hammer (and other LPS) corals have specialized polyps that have the capability to extend much further than the rest of their polyps. They are commonly called sweeper tentacles. They use them to defend their space on the reef and can produce a powerful sting which can sometimes be felt by humans.

Regards,
Kevin

LPS, SPS ... polyp size has nothing to do with the formation of sweepers. Pocillopora, Stylophora, Pavona, Psammacora....all form swepers. Fungia, Tracyphyllia, Lobophyllia - don't form sweepers. Some corals form sweepers. Euphyllia do. Family member Catalaphyllia do not.