New set up questions...

[newbieguy]

Ok, so after months of reading, planning and procrastinating I finally set up my first attempt at a reef this week. Thanks for all the help you folks provided. Here's what I've put together:

- 60 gallon All-Glass Hex
- Remora AquaC skimmer
- 50 lbs Caribsea Aragonite reef grade sand substrate
- 50 lbs Premium Select Fiji Live Rock (Walt Smith through Pacific Reef)
- RIO 800 and Powersweep 226 Powerheads
- Three light flourescent 15w light hood (came with tank) with Coral Life 50/50 bulbs. I will be replacing this tomorrow with a Coralife Twin Aqualight (2 - 65 watt 10000k daylight and one actinic) that I got from a friend. I will be updating lighting down the road.
- 110GPD RO+2DI REVERSE OSMOSIS water system from Filter Direct

Been set up for three days, two with live rock. Skimmer is chugging along (can't beleive what crap it is pulling from the water).

8.0 ph
4.0 ammonia
.50 ppm nitrite
10 ppm nitrate
1.021 specific gravity (dropped from 1.024 yesterday???)
78 degrees

Most of the microbubbles have cleared.

Questions:
1) Adjust Ph now or wait a few more days?
2) Explanation for the drop in specific gravity?
3) Will I see an algae bloom and how soon?
4) Should I begin weekly water changes immediately?
5) When do I add a cleanup crew and suggestions for an online package/vendor. (Pacific Reef had some interesting looking packages)
6) There seems to be some slime on the water's top. Will this go away?

I've attached a photo. Please pardon the reflections (no shades in room). I am building a custom cherry base and canopy to be added later.

Thanks.

[Ninong]

Questions:
1) Adjust Ph now or wait a few more days?

Leave the pH alone. There is no need to fool with it.

2) Explanation for the drop in specific gravity?

None, other than the possibility that one of your readings is incorrect. What are you using to measure your specific gravity? You can get a nice refractometer for about $45 and that is what I would recommend.

3) Will I see an algae bloom and how soon?

You have just started what appears to be a rather robust cycle, judging from your high ammonia reading. It could take another three or four weeks for you to complete just the initial cycle. That means that ammonia has spiked and dropped to undetectable, nitrite has spiked and dropped to almost undetectable and nitrate has spiked and dropped down to something reasonable (~50 ppm or less).

Most new tanks go through an algal progression as part of the cycle. A diatom bloom lasting perhaps 10 days is quite common but this may not appear for another couple of weeks or more. Whether you get any cyanobacteria and, if so, how much, is variable. You may or may not have a problem later on with nuisance algae of some sort.

4) Should I begin weekly water changes immediately?

I wouldn't do any water changes until after your ammonia has spiked and dropped and nitrite has spike and dropped. The only reason for doing early water changes during the cycle would be to protect visible life on the surface of the live rock. I don't see anything like that on your live rock, so I wouldn't do any water changes at all for at least another two weeks, maybe three.

5) When do I add a cleanup crew and suggestions for an online package/vendor. (Pacific Reef had some interesting looking packages)

Do NOT add any clean-up critters until after your tank has finished the initial cycle. Wait until nitrite has dropped and nitrate has dropped to a reasonable level. There are several good sources online. I like Inland Aquatics and Reeftopia among others.

6) There seems to be some slime on the water's top. Will this go away?

Yes, it should go away. It could be an indication that you are not draining water from the surface into your skimmer. I'm assuming there is no sump or I would have said that something is blocking the surface from draining into your overflow.

You could direct a powerhead upwards toward the surface to agitate the surface and break up the surface film.

Good luck!

[SomeHairyOldGuy]

just read what ninong said and do it. i want to stress the "just leave it alone and let it cycle"

i couldnt tell if you have a over flow box for your skipper or not. get one and it will get rid of the surface film. even if you use a ph to agitate the surface you most likely will still have pockets that wont go away.

looking good though. be patient and it will pay off.

SHOG

[newbieguy]

Thank you for the input.

When you see leave the ph alone, does that mean now, or forever? The remora is hanging on the tank, not on a box (spave limitations with the hex). Eventually I will be adding a sump and refugium (through the back wall into my workshop).

I'm using a cheapo floating needle type hydrometer right now, maybe that's the problem. What's a few more dollars..., I keep telling my wife this is for the kids to watch (yeah right), she reminds me what a betta and a small goldfish bowl would cost.

Also, since the live rock has to be piled against the back wall, how much circulation do I need in these "dead areas". Are the two ph's enough?

Dumb question....when the weather turns cold here in Wisconsin (which it does occasionally), can livestock (cleanup crew) be successfully shipped, say in late fall or winter months?

[Ninong]

When you see leave the ph alone, does that mean now, or forever?

If your pH is off, it's an indication that something else is not right. Right now there is nothing wrong with your pH. It would be nice if we could keep our pH at a constant 8.2-8.3 but that's not going to happen in a tiny little aquarium. Your pH reading will be lowest early in the morning before the lights come on and then it will gradually rise during the day while the lights are on due to photosynthesis (net production of oxygen). Then, after your lights go out at night, oxygen levels will fall due to respiration (net production of carbon dioxide).

A normal pH range would be 8.0-8.4; however, it could drop as low as 7.9 or rise as high as 8.5 without causing real problems. Above 8.6 or below 7.8 is a real problem. Once you determine which method you intend to employ to maintain calcium and alkalinity levels, that should take care of your pH.

The remora is hanging on the tank, not on a box (spave limitations with the hex).

I'm not familiar with the Remora Pro but does it draw water from the surface? The important thing is that the surface water flows into something.

I'm using a cheapo floating needle type hydrometer right now, maybe that's the problem. What's a few more dollars..., I keep telling my wife this is for the kids to watch...

Be sure to tell her "it's educational."

Dumb question....when the weather turns cold here in Wisconsin (which it does occasionally), can livestock (cleanup crew) be successfully shipped, say in late fall or winter months?

They will use heat packs in the shipping box. A lot depends on just how cold it gets and how long the shipping carton is left in the cold. It is always riskier to ship in extremely cold or extremely hot weather.

[whatevva]

Can you do an alkalinity test?

[newbieguy]

Right now I have no way to test the alkalinity at home. I'll be running a sample to the LFS next week probably. The test kit I have only tests ammonia, ph, nitrite and nitrate.

As far as the skimmer goes, it hangs on the back of the tank and draws from a powerhead located in the tank (no surface skimming). Does someone make a box that mounts inside the tank that I could suck from that would allow the surface water more movement into the box reducing this "slime"? Not enough room behind tank to house overflow and the skimmer.

[SomeHairyOldGuy]

does someone make a box that mounts inside the tank that I could suck from that would allow the surface water more movement into the box reducing this "slime"? Not enough room behind tank to house overflow and the skimmer.

yeah i use the remora pro on my tank with a over flow. i think the over flow was made by aqua-c also. just ask the place where you got you skimmer at. i am sure they will know of one that will fit you skimmer.
SHOG

[newbieguy]

Thanks Hairy Guy...

I found one specifically for this Remora Skimmer, plus it will hide the ugly powerhead. Here's the link if anyone else is interested.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=AC3323

[Burning2nd]

MY remora ROCKS

so as ninong said. wait, your take must cycle. the only way you will know is by continueing to test the NH4 it should be 0ppm after that you might be able to get away with a few hardy clean up crew members, but anything b4 and your sending them 2 there death.

the tank needs time for the micro algae to stabalize.

The only thing i think you might have a problem with is your lighting what is the depth of that tank?

[newbieguy]

The tank is 24" deep (I know, not ideal for a reef). Until I can afford to upgrade I am using a Coralife twin 24" CF. I'm open for budget conscious suggestions on lighting this thing in the future, possible with a pendant style mh?

Do you have your remora hanging on your tank?

[fish outa wata]

a mh pendant would be great at all heights in your tank. A 250 mh would reach the lower depths for those corals who don't require as much lighting.