[Minh Nguyen]

It is a very bleached anemone, but if it live, it will recover. Keep feeding it but not over feed. A cubic cm every few day should be fine. H. magnifica require very bright light and high current (alternation or random current). Mine just right under a 400 W MH and did very well there.

[dangerousdave]

Allright, fed it last night so I´ll let it be and feed it again tomorrow. It´s tentacles are thinner but the moutch is closed and it has a good grip when I touch it. It dont move though and I have to powerheads "meeting" over it so its run through pretty good. Will post in a few days so we can see if we (me and you) got it through!!

Gonna ask a friend to borrow his camera so I can film it so U can see if the current is sufficient!

THanks for the replies!

Dave

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by dangerousdave

Allright, fed it last night so I´ll let it be and feed it again tomorrow.

As Minh pointed out, a couple of times a week should be sufficient for this species. Just make sure to give it sufficient time between feedings for it to "do its business." Remember, anemones have only one orifice; they do not have a separate anus. Waste and undigested food comes out the same way it went in.

[dangerousdave]

yes your´re right, I just wrote wrong. Im feeding it on sunday afternoon when I do the weekly waterchange of 10 gal.

Dave

[dangerousdave]

OK got it going pretty good I think, its now more bowlshaped, upwards and I do hope that is a good thing...
Im now feeding it a small piece of shrimp ever third day and I have lowered my 150 MH lamp about two inc. So hopefully!

[Minh Nguyen]

As long as he eat and hold it down, he should be fine.
Minh

[dangerousdave]

He´s still eating but has thin tentacles, I only have 150W mh lamp, mabye upgrade to a 250? might make him happier??

Dave

[Minh Nguyen]

He will be happier under 250 W light, but are your other coral gong to be happy. It looks like you have solf coral in the tank that may not like the increase light.
does he deflate at all during the day?

[dangerousdave]

Hm

[dangerousdave]

Hm yer probably right that my softies will not be too happy, Ill think it over. The anemone dont deflate at all anymore! Its thin somethimes but not as in the begining. A friend has a 240 e40 lying around, might give it a try

heres the whole tank: planing a sump so I can get rid of the al the green stuff and the skimmer etc.
Thanks for the reply!

Dave

[Minh Nguyen]

You can chage to 250W MH, but re-arrange the coral and rock. Keep one large rock area with somewhat flat top for the H. magnifica and all the solf corals lower in the tank or in the semi shade under the rock. This should be OK for all.

[dangerousdave]

Ok bobbo came by with his new camera so I made a littlel film. You can see the anemone and the rest of my guys in the tank. The text under the title says "Before I was a schizo but now We are fine.." in case anyone wonders...
Dave
akvariet20061124_0001.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[kevinpo]

Hi Dave,
Very cool video! That Lawnmower Blenny has quite the belly on it It also looks like you have good flow in the tank.

Regards,
Kevin

[dangerousdave]

Yes I do! and my blenny´s really doing a fine job!

Dave

[Redskins]

So you keep a temp of 78 degrees? I thought 80 to 82 was prime temp for a reef. Is a daytime temp of 82-84 too hot?

[dangerousdave]

Yes I do! read about other reefnuts that hade coralls damaged by 82 degrees. So to be safe I keep it alittle cool.

Dave

[Minh Nguyen]

Originally Posted by dangerousdave

Yes I do! read about other reefnuts that hade coralls damaged by 82 degrees. So to be safe I keep it alittle cool.

Dave

Stability of temp is the main thing. I keep my tank at 81-82 degree but it get to 84 on summer afternoon. If it got to 88 for several days, my corals got stressed but no problem. Once when some workers turned my chiller off to work on the electricity but did not turn it back on again, and I did not catch it until I got home that night, my tank hit 92. I had some corals died and some bleaching but recovered. The tank as a whole did OK. If a tank were keeping at 78, it would not have survived 10-degree spike at 88 degree. Your friend who has tank damage at 82 degree got to keep his tank at a very low temperature. I know that my anemones do much better if a temperature is over 80 degree.

[dangerousdave]

Doing better over 80 degrees? Hm interesting. Íll give it a try!

Thanks!

Dave

[Minh Nguyen]

Don't increase it too quickly. If you have a chiller increase only 1/2 degree every few days to make sure your coral don't get stress out. Stability of temperature is most importank.. But, IMO, coral grow faster at higher temperature.

[kevinpo]

Here is my experience on temperature with fish, SPS, LPS, and soft corals. Several of my tanks swing from 76F-80F every 24 hours without any problem. In the summer though they run 79F-82F and a few SPS corals have problems with temperatures higher than 83F. In my 550 at home I have about 135 corals living there and when the temperature hits 84F a couple will start to RTN. You have a max of 24 hours to move them or lower the temp before you lose the whole colony. Lucky for me I have a 90 gal 4' away to move them to. Both colonies were saved. At 85F a couple more begin to RTN and at 86F a couple more. I have never been past 86F so I can't say what would happen then. So all the fish and the majority of the corals can withstand higher temperatures but a small percentage can die. As a result I have since corrected my cooling system to not exceed 83F and have not had a problem in the last 3 years. Corals and fish can take quite cool temperatures (as low as 72F) without any problems.
My preferred target temperature (the range in 24 hours where my corals have done best) is 78F - 82F. This is on 7 separate systems all with fish and corals of some type.

HTH,
Kevin