[bguile]

Originally Posted by FireEater

Why use the foam? Is your stand not level?

I didn't use foam on my build and I have no problems. I'm not sure why foam is used other than an unlevel setup and the person wants the stand to self level. Even then I'm not sure that would work as the water would gather on the low end and cause more weight which in turn would cause the foam to compress more on that end.

I could just never see the benefit of foam. I trimmed around the bottom of my tank with small crown molding. It came out nice and clean. Hides most of the side of the sandbed also.

Yeah, it is level. I had only put the foam under it as a suggestion because once I put the table top on the tank sat about 1/16th off the table. The tabletop is 1.5in thick via 2 boards so I'm not so sure it's a bowing problem and shimming underneath I don't think would change anything, but unleveling it. Suggestions?

[charlie]

If it was me, I wouldn't worry about it. I tested my 300 with tap water, and my tap water has a TDS of 280. I just washed it out real good after the test. When I filled it up I used 1/2 RO/DI, then got tired of waiting and filled the rest with tap water. I had the normal cycle, and no real ill effects afterwards.
I think if the husbandry techniques that follow the initial tests are good, you are in no danger. Mind you, this is only my opinion, so take what you want from it.

[FireEater]

Originally Posted by bguile

Yeah, it is level. I had only put the foam under it as a suggestion because once I put the table top on the tank sat about 1/16th off the table. The tabletop is 1.5in thick via 2 boards so I'm not so sure it's a bowing problem and shimming underneath I don't think would change anything, but unleveling it. Suggestions?

You mean you saw a gap between the bottom of the tank and the table top? I see where you used two sheets of plywood for the tabletop and then put formica on it. So where is the gap at?

I would say to run the 4' level you have across the top where the tank sits but now that you have glued the formica down it is to late to belt sand the high spot level. Unless you think you have an air bubble in the formica. Though the way your work looks in the pics, you know what you are doing. So I doubt an air bubble exists in it.

You could do two things here. You can fill the tank without the foam in place watching the gap closely. If it goes away once the tank is half full, then it is most likely an air pocket somewhere in the plywood and the water will compress it back into place. Which is what will happen anyway with the foam in place also.

If it doesn't go away, then it is just an imperfection in the wood somewhere. So using the foam should help in that situation which is your second option.

As for as the compressing of the foam goes. That can be tricky. It might compress no more than a 1/4" at first. But then start slowly compressing over the years like a house would. But overall, I wouldn't think it would compress anymore than 1/2" at best in the long run.

You need to contact Myth Busters. Tell them that you heard that the foam you are using compresses over 1/2" with a tank so large and weighing so many pounds. Water weighs 7 pounds per gallon. They can figure all the calculations up and let you know.

Were you planning on trimming it out like the pic I showed you for the bottom? Because if it does settle some it will be no problem there as the trim is not attached to the tank. I just simply shot nails into the bottom of it and they go into the stand. So basically the tank can move up and down and not affect the trim.

The top will be no problem also. When the tank settles it will pull away from the top. So just make you doors about 1/2" below the top trim. That way if the tank settles down, your doors still cover the trim.

Your setup is a lot like mine. Top and bottom.

Oh yea, just use a water hose to fill the tank for testing. Nothing will leach into the silicon to contaminate your tank. Something like that can take years to do.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by charlie

If it was me, I wouldn't worry about it. I tested my 300 with tap water, and my tap water has a TDS of 280. I just washed it out real good after the test. When I filled it up I used 1/2 RO/DI, then got tired of waiting and filled the rest with tap water. I had the normal cycle, and no real ill effects afterwards.
I think if the husbandry techniques that follow the initial tests are good, you are in no danger. Mind you, this is only my opinion, so take what you want from it.

I understand. I was thinking about how long it would take to fill the tank and I really didn't want to wait that long for a test. If somethings wrong, I need to be standing there the moment it does so that I can minimize the damage. I wouldn't be standing around for 3 days. I'll fill it with tap water and just wash it out good after. It'll be a few weeks yet before its filled for service anyways.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by FireEater

You mean you saw a gap between the bottom of the tank and the table top? I see where you used two sheets of plywood for the tabletop and then put formica on it. So where is the gap at?

The gap was between the top of the formica and the bottom of the tank. Almost as if the bottom brace of the tank was intentionally concave. I don't remember laying my level on the tabletop after finding this out, but I'll have to go back and see if the table maybe bowed in a little as I secured it to the stand or not. As you stated, it doesn't seem to be air bubble issue because the tank is either bowed up or the tabletop is bowed down. i'll have to check.

Originally Posted by FireEater

As for as the compressing of the foam goes. That can be tricky. It might compress no more than a 1/4" at first. But then start slowly compressing over the years like a house would. But overall, I wouldn't think it would compress anymore than 1/2" at best in the long run.

That's what I was thinking but didn't want to cut the extra 1/2" if I didn't have to. I guess that's just me trying to be perfect. My biggest concern with the foam compressing was that I didn't want it to compress into the bottom trim and displace it. So I guess what I'll do is fill it initially and wait a couple days and see what happens. If it does expand the sides I'll just trim it and then install. That is, if I find the need for foam after checking the flatness with my level.

Originally Posted by FireEater

You need to contact Myth Busters. Tell them that you heard that the foam you are using compresses over 1/2" with a tank so large and weighing so many pounds. Water weighs 7 pounds per gallon. They can figure all the calculations up and let you know.

Yeah, they'd probably drop an anvil on it from 25ft to show me that it won't compress any more than 1/4"! The foam is 3/4" thick BTW.

Originally Posted by FireEater

Were you planning on trimming it out like the pic I showed you for the bottom?

Yep! Almost exactly.

[FireEater]

Originally Posted by bguile

The gap was between the top of the formica and the bottom of the tank. Almost as if the bottom brace of the tank was intentionally concave.

Now we are getting somewhere. I have yet to see a glass tank where the bottom glass is supported. The support for the tanks are on the sides where the bottom trim is at.

The bottom glass is always the thick piece for this reason. It is thick to support all the weight that will be place inside the tank. The bottom trim is there to let the tank sit evenly and distribute the weight.

I think those bottom braces you have are there to support extra heavy weight "if" the glass tries to bow down. I bet if you turn the tank over and then run your level, which will act as a straight edge, across it, those braces might not even come into play. The level will rest on all the bottom trim pieces and not touch the middle pieces.

My tank, which is 6 foot long by 19 inches wide does not even have those bottom braces. It sits only on the bottom trim pieces. From my tank shots you can see all the rock I have in there. Below is a pic of the bottom. As you can see the tank only rests on the bottom trim pieces. I have the other part covered with black construction paper. I was seeing some ugly green/black algae growing on the bottom of my sandbed from underneath. this was caused by the lights reflecting up from my sump. I figured that could not be a good thing so I covered the bottom.

I'm wondering now at this point why you even need the foam. Check the bottom like I said and I bet those braces come into play only when the tank bottom needs the extra support. Then they will simply rest onto your table top as the bottom trim pieces.

[NeroIsKing]

Looks good except for one thing. Why would you not use Hardie Back board? I use that **** in all of my shower/bath installs and have yet to have mold/mildew/leak problems. Other than that its looks great.

[NeroIsKing]

I meant Hardie Backer Board, but can't figure out how to edit my message lol. Before you put the rustoleum on the floor I would recommend spraying enviroshield on it first. It is the industries best mold and mildew protectant and it works like a champ.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by NeroIsKing

I meant Hardie Backer Board, but can't figure out how to edit my message lol. Before you put the rustoleum on the floor I would recommend spraying enviroshield on it first. It is the industries best mold and mildew protectant and it works like a champ.

Thanks Nero and welcome to the board! it's a little too late as I've already put the rustoleum on the floor, but if I need a couple more coats and it can go on top of what I have already I might do that.

[bguile]

Ok so here' the update. After a LOT of thought, I've decided to remove the foam from under the tank. I was basically afraid at the thought of the foam compressing unevenly a few years down the road and eventually unleveling the tank and leading to an eminent disaster. So I removed it and began working on closing the small gaps at the tank bottom. I was abe to do so with a few shims under the tabletop and still kept everything level. I guess screwing down the tabletop compressed it in some areas.

I filled it with water on yesterday and everything appears to be holding well with no leaks! Later on today I will begin to mudd and tape the drywall and begin cutting the trim and access panels for the front of the tank. Wish me luck as I'm still trying to get the hang of the mudd and tape thing. The last time I did it, it was ok.. but a nightmare in sanding so hopefully I'll do better this time. Will update pics later this evening.

[charlie]

Good news!!!!! We'll be waiting for the pics. Good luck with the mud and taping, my theory is, that's why they make drywall guys, I hate that job!!!!!

[Papa Doug]

I always use foam under custom made, frameless aquariums, where the bottom glass is in full contact with the stand.

Never used any with a framed tank. Not certain, but I even remember threads someplace, where it was discussed about no warrenty on certain tanks, if the foam was used.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by charlie

Good news!!!!! We'll be waiting for the pics. Good luck with the mud and taping, my theory is, that's why they make drywall guys, I hate that job!!!!!

Yeah, me too but I'd rather save the money for equipment and livestock! I live in a new area now so I dont know anyone that would do it for kinda cheap (read: free or food and beer) so it's either I do it or pay someone. I'm already interested in knowing what the electrical guy is going to cost me to run me a couple dedicated lines.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by Papa Doug

I always use foam under custom made, frameless aquariums, where the bottom glass is in full contact with the stand.

Never used any with a framed tank. Not certain, but I even remember threads someplace, where it was discussed about no warrenty on certain tanks, if the foam was used.

I've seen some of them too. I just took the guess work out of it and removed it. Makes it much easier on my measurements also. No future guesswork.

[charlie]

Originally Posted by bguile

Yeah, me too but I'd rather save the money for equipment and livestock! I live in a new area now so I dont know anyone that would do it for kinda cheap (read: free or food and beer) so it's either I do it or pay someone. I'm already interested in knowing what the electrical guy is going to cost me to run me a couple dedicated lines.

I think if you could run the wire yourself and have them hook it up for you, it would save you a bunch. I usually do most of my own electrical stuff, but I enjoy that stuff. Plus I get all the food and adult beverages I want.
All you have to do is make sure it is up to spec, and a phone call should at least give you that.

[FireEater]

Originally Posted by charlie

Good luck with the mud and taping, my theory is, that's why they make drywall guys, I hate that job!!!!!

HAHA! I love the job! I have been doing it for 20 years, the last 14 as my part time job with a buddy.

I only work 9 days a month at the FD and that is only if i do not have any days off. Like this month I only work 6 days due to vacation days.

So it gives me plenty of time for a second job. I'm the best white boy tape and floater in construction!

[bguile]

Originally Posted by FireEater

I'm the best white boy tape and floater in construction!

That's pretty funny. I could've used you up here today though. I had an emergency and didn't get as much time to work on it today, so new pics are delayed a bit.

[bguile]

Originally Posted by charlie

I think if you could run the wire yourself and have them hook it up for you, it would save you a bunch. I usually do most of my own electrical stuff, but I enjoy that stuff. Plus I get all the food and adult beverages I want.
All you have to do is make sure it is up to spec, and a phone call should at least give you that.

Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll have to figure out how to fish the wire to the main panel. There's an easy (almost) access soffit that a lot of the other lines run through but the lines disappear up and over the main beam to the panel which is maybe 3ft from the soffit. I think that'll be the trickiest part. My closest open access to the point where they go over the beam is 13ft and that part of the basement is drywalled already. Any suggestions?

[bguile]

Finally after dealing with real life and having to replace the motherboard in my computer I can finally update this thread. It's a slow going process since I'm doing this all myself, but I'm in no rush anyways. I still need to figure out what my problem is with not being able to keep corals and other inverts.

Anyway, here's what's taken place. I've gone from this:


To this:


In my original design, I wanted to create a canopy that would give me full access to the tank from the front without looking like I can do so (ie. cabinet doors). The doors are separate with the openings covered by the vertical trim. In this pic they are unpainted, I have painted them since to match the rest. The display wall was painted using the "ragging" technique. Texturing the wall was a part of the original plan also to give it more of a highlight than the rest of the walls. It happened to work out well since the texturing helps to hide a lot of flaws of the mud and tape job! Although, I was a bit impressed with my work this time. Much better than the first.

It's now on to the nitty gritty and getting the behind the scenes things done so we can get some water moving. Here's additional pics recording progress. All comments and suggestions and critiques are welcomed! I need them. Thanks!

[bguile]

This is where the sump will go. I am caulking the entire room at the floor in hopes that it will be able to hold up to an inch and a half of water before any water would go into any other area. Since the sump is in the floor in the same room, it should never reach that height. Hopefully, it wont ever have to be used in that manner.


Next up is plumbing the supply and returns to the tank...