Algie Problem

[astokl12000]

All,

I posted earler about a problem I have with keeping nails alive. Since I had my water tested by two deffierent places and all check out fine. In the meantime however, my tank is begining to get taken ove rby algie. I have 40 crabs in there and plan on buing more this weekend but wanted to ask the forum members if the algie will go away once I get enought algie eaters in there or if there are any other steps I need to take ot get rid of the problem.

Thanks,

Adam

[Ninong]

This is what you posted earlier about your snails:
PH is 8. Salinity is 1.023. Over what period of time whould you do the drip? What snails would you recommend? I was told in the pet store I got them at that there was no need for the drip but rather to just put them in right away. I guess that is not correct.

Two points:

1) Raise your salinity to 1.025-1.026 specific gravity (~35ppt salinity). You can do that gradually by using saltwater for your evaporation replacement instead of freshwater.

2) Next time you buy some snails, acclimate them slowly over a period of at least three hours before putting them in your tank. This is especially important if there is a big different in salinity between your tank and the tank they came out of.

As far as your algae problem is concerned, this is not unexpected for a newly set up aquarium. You have more than enough hermit crabs already. If I were you, I would get more snails. For your 210-gal tank, you should consider having about three or four dozen Trochus snails and maybe one or two dozen Cerith snails. If you have a sandbed, you should consider adding two or three dozen Nassarius snails. There are other possibilites but that would get you started. No need to go overboard with a new tank. You can always add more later.

You should also consider purchasing some test kits so that you can test your own water parameters. If you have a 210-gal tank, you need to do this yourself and not rely on the LFS. Besides, they rarely test everything. You need test kits for calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and nitrate, at the very least. Salifert makes decent test kits for the price. Most of the cheaper test kits are useless. I prefer LaMotte for calcium and alkalinity but Salifert is acceptable.

You will want to maintain your calcium around 425 ppm (at least 375 ppm) and your alkalinity anywhere from 8-12 dKH. Try to keep your nitrates below 20 ppm, eventually getting down to less than 10 ppm -- the lower the better. You should get a refractometer to test your salinity. They're only about $45.

Algae problems usually dissipate as a tank matures, provided water parameters are maintained within proper guidelines. Grazing snails are more important for keeping algae under control than hermit crabs. A nice foxface rabbitfish (Siganus vulpinus or S. unimaculatus) would be a great addition. They are terrific herbivores. Be aware that their dorsal, anal and pectoral spines are venomous.

[astokl12000]

Ninong,

Thank you. Very helpful. I do have my own test kid but wanted to make sure I am getting correct results but haveing a store do a test. ALl check out. I also have the refractometer and it works great. I will start to increase my salinity and continue to measure water parameters. Also, that you for the heads up on the aclimation process. Very helpfull.

AS far as bed is concerned. I have a bed made out of finely crashed coral. Would you still recomment the same bed snails? How about a sand shifting gobby?

Adam

[Ninong]

I would not add any sand-sifting fish at all if your "sand" bed is crushed coral. I'm not sure what you mean by "finely" crushed coral???

Nassarius snails really require a normal sandbed to thrive. I wouldn't bother adding them to a tank with a crushed coral substrate.

I don't consider a crushed coral substrate an acceptable option for a reef tank. That's just my personal opinion. Many people who have started out with crushed coral in their reef aquariums have chosen to remove the crushed coral and start over with sand. That's something you may wish to consider.

Crushed coral substrates have a tendency to trap detritus and thus contribute to nitrate problems. A crushed coral substrate is difficult to maintain unless it is very shallow (about 1/2" deep).