[heinze]

I'm back agaian still with the same problem and I still can't get rid of my diatoms problem, i've removed my bioballs this last week and am hopping this is going to help, but at he minute it seems to be getting worse. If i can't get it to clear up in the next two months i'm going to sell the lot. I really don't want to cause i love my reef but it is so depressing coming home from work every day to see a tank full of brown slime..... If any one has had a servere case like this or any one knows anything about it plese help me as i'm at the end of my tether.....

Would be nice to post a different realated thread

[Ratpack]

Not sure if you have one or not, but if you don't, try a lawnmower blenny. I had green slime algae for awhile and after I put him in there, he took care of it in about two weeks. Since then I have gotten my system under control and it hasn't returned, at least not to the point that he can't keep it gone. He really has turned out to be one of my favorite fish. Runs around the tank all the time scraping the glass and rocks to remove algae.

[heinze]

I've got a algae blennie, not sure if he's the same. But he will not toch the stuff. the algae is a bubble covered, brown slimey, gunk, which coats absolutly every thing.

[Ninong]

If you are having a problem with diatoms in a tank that has been set up for more than a couple of months, then you have a water chemistry problem. It's as simple as that.

It really won't do you any good to go looking for a biological control to eat the diatoms because nothing you buy will be able to keep up. I could suggest you add a couple of fighting conchs (Strombus alatus) but they will only eat diatoms on the sand bed, not the live rock, and they wouldn't even make a dent into the problem if it's as bad as you describe.

Are you using R.O./D.I. water to make your saltwater? If you are using unfiltered tapwater, you could have soluble silica in the tapwater. If you are using R.O./D.I. water or distilled water, then we can eliminate the freshwater as the source of your silicate problem. Obviously you can't have diatoms without silicate. It's impossible. Typical NSW values for silica range from <0.06 ppm to as high as 2.7 ppm. There is no reason to maintain silica in a reef aquarium above 1 ppm and if you have a diatom problem, your goal is to get it down as low as possible, preferably much lower than 1 ppm.

Obviously you would want to watch your other parameters closely if you are experiencing any sort of problem, whether it be diatoms, cyanobacteria or green hair algae. While it is possible to maintain a reef aquarium with nitrate in the 10-15 ppm range, it's better to get it down below 1 ppm, especially if you're having any problems of any kind.

Phosphate should never be allowed to rise above 0.03 ppm. Anything higher than that will cause all sorts of problems. NSW PO4 = 0.005 ppm.

In summary, if you're having water chemistry problems (which you are), then you need to work on all your parameters to try to get them in line:

Calcium = 425-475 ppm
Alkalinity = 8-12 dKH (2.9-4.3 mEq/L)
Salinity = 35 ppt
Temperature = 78-83 F (25.6-28.3 C)
pH = 8.0-8.4
Magnesium = 1300 ppm
Phosphate = <0.03 ppm
Ammonia = <0.1 ppm
Nitrite = <0.1 ppm
Nitrate = <1.0 ppm
Silica = <1.0 ppm, but much lower if you have a diatom problem
Iodine = 0.06 ppm total
Strontium = 8-9 ppm
Boron = 4.4 ppm

There are various products you could try to see if your diatom situation improves. An iron oxide-based phosphate sponge product and Poly-filters are two possibilities. Both of those should work to lower silicate as well.

[heinze]

thanks for ypur reply. I get all my water from my lfs. But when i tested it the other day it had a nitrate reading of 10ppm and a phosphate reading og .1ppm, so i'm trying to resolve this my getting my own unit. the readings in my tank are all within the range of the list abouve apart from phosphate is .1ppm, and (iodine,strontium, boron and ammonia) haven't been tested for. Silica is 0...

I've been looking on the net and with the simptoms i've got i'm not so sure it's diatoms but rather dinoflagellites, which at the minute i don't no the difference or what cause it... If you no any thing about this could you please explain

[Ninong]

Dinoflagellates

[Cas]

Your silica maybe 0 because the diatoms are taking it out of the water and masking the problem.

[jle9123]

My first question for you is what size tank do you have, what light, how long you leave the lights on, how often do you feed and how much current do you have in the tank,when was last water change , what salt are you using and what do you keep your salinity? All this will give me a general understand and show you how to get rid of Diatom. Not hard but pretty simple.

-Joseph

[heinze]

Not sure it is diatoms now, from what i've read it's more like dinoflagellites, if you no any thing about this all help is gratfully wanted.
I have 120gallon tank, two 250watt halides and two 54watt actinics, halides on for 9 hours blues on for 11, get feed once a day two frozen blocks one day and flake the next. I've got an ocean runner 3500 return pump an seio 3000, 2 x mixi jet 1200 and a hydor korolia 4, 6000lph. I do a 25 liter water change every week. not sure what the salt mix is as i get it from my lfs. Salinity is keeped at 1.025/6 with the auto top up.
please please help.....

[jle9123]

I would recommend to feed every other day to limit the waste product, then lower the light to 7 hour MH and 11 hours Actinics. Water change should be limited due to over flux of tank. On a tank that size, water change should be limit to 20 gallon once a month for a heavey populated with fish tank, if mild /meduim 10 gallons a month willk be fine. You need to cut back to let the tank mature and let the skimmer and bacteria catch up. This is for all type of algea or bacteria bloom aka daitom. Make sure that the tank is flowing witha mild current on the dead area to prevent stagment sections. To me it sound like a feeding issue and water change. Lighting cut back is to limit the easte released by corals and light feeding bacteria or algae. This will help out quite a bit I garentee it. I helped over 20 member this yr alone with their tanks that I came to thier house and 30 over the phone. Understand the cycle of your tank is the key to fixing alot of problem meaning understand the bioload and your equipment ability & tuning.

-Joseph

[heinze]

i'l give it a go thanks..............