[Future]

OK I've successfully brought my tank to the proper readings, and this time I did 3 tests on the following to get precise readings...

Nitrates - 0ppm
Nitrites - 0ppm
Amonia - 0ppm
PH - 8.2 to 8.4
Salinity/SG - 1.021

I know the salinity is low and I need to figure out how to keep control over it. My top off is usually just bottled RO, but should I possibly top off with some saltwater once or twice?

I want to eventually go with corals, but I don't know what tests kits I'll need for the calcium and such. What should I get? Please list all tests I'll need.

Also I do not know what "extras" I should be adding into the tank. So far I only add Kent Microvert and Kent Essential Elements. I haven't added any calcium lately because I don't know about testing it.

I managed to eradicate all the Nitrates by literally placing Caulerpa and Chaeto in the tank. This WILL be removed in the next day or two and placed into a small tank I'm going to get as to make a sump. I also took an old Penguin biowheel and filled it with Chaeto as to fabricate some kind of hang on overflow (Not great, but it was what I had on hand at the time)
I've read all about the macro's going sexual, so I've kept the lights on longer than normal lately to keep that process down. I should be able to take care of that w/o any problems before it tries to take over.
I'm open to any/all ideas on personal macro algae filtration because I have no clue what-so-ever on how it supposedly grows as it does in other people sumps.

Finally I'll be looking into corals, what is best for a beginner that doesn't require extreme maintenance to thrive? I'm asking so I can read up on any/all corals that fit before I jump into it. I know I've a way to go before I go coral, I just want to research the easiest ones.


Thanks in advance!

[weez1959]

Are you using a refractometer? If you're using a swing arm hydrometer you'll be getting different readings all the time, at least that's what it did when I had one.
Your salinity should be around 1.025 - 26. It shouldn't change because you're topping off. What I mean to say is if you have 10 gallons of water at 1.025 and it evaporates to 9 gallons it will go up but when you replace the 1 gallon it will be back to 1.025 unless you add too much water then it will be lower. The salt always stays in the tank, only the water evaporates. With the exception of salt creep but that's over time, it shouldn't make too much difference

[weez1959]

I forgot about the tests

main tests should be:
calcium
magnesium
alk
phosphates

I don't really test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates unless there's a problem or I'm starting a new tank

For the corals, it depends on your lights...

[Future]

Originally Posted by weez1959

Are you using a refractometer? If you're using a swing arm hydrometer you'll be getting different readings all the time, at least that's what it did when I had one.
Your salinity should be around 1.025 - 26. It shouldn't change because you're topping off. What I mean to say is if you have 10 gallons of water at 1.025 and it evaporates to 9 gallons it will go up but when you replace the 1 gallon it will be back to 1.025 unless you add too much water then it will be lower. The salt always stays in the tank, only the water evaporates. With the exception of salt creep but that's over time, it shouldn't make too much difference

Yes it's a swing arm. My salinity has been low for a bit and I didn't want to add salt too quickly. I brought it up from 1.018, and still know it's low. It kind of just bugs me being that low I guess.

[Future]

Originally Posted by weez1959

I forgot about the tests

main tests should be:
calcium
magnesium
alk
phosphates

I don't really test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates unless there's a problem or I'm starting a new tank

For the corals, it depends on your lights...

Sounds good, I'll look into getting the ones you listed, even though I'm still going to be anal and do whatever testing I can..