Kent marine nano reef

[Ninong]

Yes, the calcium demand in your tank will determine how much of Part A and Part B you should add. That's why it's always a good idea to start at half the manufacturer's recommended dosage and then adjust from there depending on your routine test results.

To be a reefkeeper, you must be an amateur chemist, mechanic, plumber, carpenter, electrician, and damage-control expert. You must also be an amateur psychologist to deal with the inevitable comments from your significant other concerning the amount of money you are "wasting" on your hobby and the amount of time you are "wasting" on your hobby.

Tactfully explaining why there are several gallons of saltwater on the floor is an acquired skill that comes with experience. It also helps to close off the room until the problem is solved.

Explaining why the smoke detector just went off is another learned skill. It's best to pull the plug on whatever is causing the smoke.

If new corals show up on your live rock, you can always say they "grew" there. If a new fish shows up in your tank, you can always say you won it as a door prize at your LFS.

Before long you will be a master of many different arts.

[TimH07]

you made my day LOL

[Parrothead]

Ninong,

You know for everything else in this hobby there is mastercard

Your advice above............priceless

Tanks,
Robert

P.S. I gonna copy and past so that it is handy for future reference, because I know for a fact it will be NEEDED

[charlie]

Yes, the calcium demand in your tank will determine how much of Part A and Part B you should add. That's why it's always a good idea to start at half the manufacturer's recommended dosage and then adjust from there depending on your routine test results.

To be a reefkeeper, you must be an amateur chemist, mechanic, plumber, carpenter, electrician, and damage-control expert. You must also be an amateur psychologist to deal with the inevitable comments from your significant other concerning the amount of money you are "wasting" on your hobby and the amount of time you are "wasting" on your hobby.

Tactfully explaining why there are several gallons of saltwater on the floor is an acquired skill that comes with experience. It also helps to close off the room until the problem is solved.

Explaining why the smoke detector just went off is another learned skill. It's best to pull the plug on whatever is causing the smoke.

If new corals show up on your live rock, you can always say they "grew" there. If a new fish shows up in your tank, you can always say you won it as a door prize at your LFS.

Before long you will be a master of many different arts.

Classic.........

[Papa Doug]

yes, the calcium demand in your tank will determine how much of part a and part b you should add. That's why it's always a good idea to start at half the manufacturer's recommended dosage and then adjust from there depending on your routine test results.

To be a reefkeeper, you must be an amateur chemist, mechanic, plumber, carpenter, electrician, and damage-control expert. You must also be an amateur psychologist to deal with the inevitable comments from your significant other concerning the amount of money you are "wasting" on your hobby and the amount of time you are "wasting" on your hobby.

Tactfully explaining why there are several gallons of saltwater on the floor is an acquired skill that comes with experience. It also helps to close off the room until the problem is solved.

Explaining why the smoke detector just went off is another learned skill. It's best to pull the plug on whatever is causing the smoke.

If new corals show up on your live rock, you can always say they "grew" there. If a new fish shows up in your tank, you can always say you won it as a door prize at your lfs.

Before long you will be a master of many different arts.

amen.

[yheartsp]

hello ninong

i have a question! i have the following corals
1. glove
2. xenia
3. lavender mushroom, , red mushroom
4. torch ( LPS )
5. open brain ( LPS)
6. alveopora (LPS )
7. button
8. yuma
9. fox

are all of them okay for 28 celsius, because i read that certain corals prefer colder climate , thanks! ( my temp is averaging at 28 celsius now, with little fluctuations )

[Ninong]

are all of them okay for 28 celsius...

Yes, 28 C (82.4 F) is ideal.

...because i read that certain corals prefer colder climate...

All corals do best when kept under conditions that are most like those in the natural world where individuals of that species do best.

Indonesia has the largest concentration and highest diversity of corals in the world; therefore, corals prefer the conditions found in Indonesian waters. Last time I checked, Indonesian waters were not cold.

Indonesia and Malaysia have nearly identical water conditions, so just go down to the beach and stick your toe in the water. Is it cold? Of course not.



P.S. -- I just checked again and Indonesian waters are still warm -- average sea temperature of 29.1 C (84.4 F). The lowest reading anywhere in Indonesia is 27 C (80.6 F) and the highest is 31 C (87.8 F).

For a reef aquarium, I think you will be in good shape if you keep your temperature no lower than 26 C (78.8 F) and no higher than 29 C (84.2 F). Your goal should be 27-28 C (80.6-82.4 F).

[yheartsp]

hi ninong i think i know why my calcium levels are always so high.. I have been using amway treatment system treated water for my wc and it only removes stuff harmful to humans.. I just found out it contains 10 ppm nitrates too ! No wonder my tanks nitrate is always 10 to 15.. My question is can i use bottled disstilled water for wc and topoff since the salt mix contains all the elements needed for reef
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[Ninong]

My question is can i use bottled disstilled water for wc and topoff since the salt mix contains all the elements needed for reef

Yes, distilled water is fine as long as no copper pipes were used in the distillation process. Distilled water over here is fine. It's probably fine where you are, too.

R.O./D.I. water is recommended and it's pure, too. You don't need tapwater. I don't know why some of the salt mix manufacturers recommend tapwater because it's usually a bad idea. Not everyone's tapwater is the same. For some people it may be fine but for most people it's too risky.

Over here the Wal-Mart Supercenters have Culligan drinking water dispensing machines in the front of the store and that water is R.O. water that passes through a U.V. sterilizer as it is dispensed. The R.O. process will remove all of the nitrates and almost all of the phosphates and silicates. That water is usually fine for use in a reef aquarium. It sells for only 25 cents a gallon if you bring your own containers.

I don't know if you have something similar over there where you live but I know that Wal-Mart is all over the planet.

Do not use any of the so-called spring water or other forms of bottled water sold in bulk as drinking water. Usually it is not R.O. water and no drinking water will ever be D.I. All of the real spring waters will contain lots of minerals, which is what gives them their distinctive flavor.

Anyway, distilled water is fine as long as no copper plumbing was used in the distillation process.

[cucatrap]

Ninong : Excellent response... was very helpfull and clear... thank you so much.. i'm killing my clownfish with this f* Kent strontium ... i will make a 50% water change and trough these additives to the garbage..

THANKS A LOT

No, your shrimp does NOT like it. Your shrimp does NOT need EXTRA iodine. In fact, excess iodine is toxic to your shrimp. It gets rid of this toxic iodine by depositing it in its exoskeleton and then molting. Excess iodine leads to premature molting.

Nothing in your aquarium needs iodine (or strontium) at concentrations in excess of natural seawater levels. In fact, both iodine and strontium are TOXIC at elevated levels. Excess strontium results in retarded growth in corals by interferring with calcium deposition. Excess strontium in humans leads to deformed bones for exactly the same reasons.

NEVER add anything that you haven't tested for and found to be deficient. If you are adding strontium and iodine without even testing for them, you almost certainly have elevated levels of both. NSW concentration of iodine is ~0.06 ppm (all forms). NSW concentration of strontium is ~9 ppm.

Besides, the Kent Marine two-part product that you are using to maintain calcium and alkalinity is alleged to contain strontium.


Kent Marine's nano reef Part A and Part B is just a brand of two-part calcium and alkalinity additive used to manage calcium and alkalinity. The manufacturer claims that this product also contains magnesium, strontium, iron and other elements. The magnesium is a good thing if it's present in an appropriate concentration. The strontium, iron and other elements are not harmful if they are present in small concentrations. I suspect that they're listed only because they were present as impurities.

Two-part products, such as this one, are fine for maintaining calcium and alkalinity is small aquariums. For larger tanks, they can become too expensive and other methods of calcium and alkalinity maintenance are usually employed.

Directions for Use
NanoReef Part A: Add 1 ml (8 drops) per 4 gallons tank capacity daily to maintain proper water parameters. Add directly to the system in an area of good water movement. Wait 5 minutes, then add Part B. Do not mix with other supplements outside of aquarium. Use NanoReef Part B to maintain alkalinity within a range of 7-10 dKH. Use of accurate test kits with these products is highly recommended and will ensure that the concentrations in the aquarium are within the desired ranges.

General Information
NanoReef Part B is an ionically-balanced buffer to NanoReef Part A that increases alkalinity and maintains stable pH. When added at the same dosage as NanoReef Part A, NanoReef Part B provides alkalinity in the same ratio found in natural seawater. It is recommended that accurate test kits be used on a regular basis to ensure water parameters remain consistent within the desired ranges (calcium 420-450 ppm, magnesium 1,300 � 1,350 ppm, strontium 8-10 ppm, alkalinity 7-10 dKH).

Those claimed levels of calcium, magnesium, strontium and alkalinity are EXCELLENT. If the product performs as advertised, then that's all you need.

I suggest you start out with 1/4-1/2 teaspoon (1.25-2.5ml) of each part, making sure to wait five minutes between these additions. I would suggest you first remove about 500ml of tankwater and add the product to that, then pour that into your tank directly into the flow from a powerhead or other water current outlet. That's because you don't have a sump. Wait five minutes between each part.

This is a balanced additive. You would normally add equal parts of A and B. However, if either your calcium or your alkalinty should drift out of line, then you would adjust your doses of each part to address your situation. In other words, if your calcium is too low, then just add 5ml (1 tsp) of Part A for each 2.5ml (1.2 tsp) of Part B until your calcium level is back to normal.

Obviously you will need decent test kits for calcium, alkalinity and magnesium to make sure that everything is within normal parameters. You could also test for pH and iodine if you want but your pH will be fine as long as your calcium, alkalinity and magnesium are in line. As long as you are adding food to your tank, it is highly unlikely that your iodine levels will fall below 0.06 ppm because all of the foods that we feed have a lot of iodine.



P.S. -- I'm assuming that you are on the metric system in Malaysia. I'm including the archaic English measurements (teaspoons) only for the benefit of U.S. readers. In this country we're still using the ancient system of measurements we inherited from our former monarch.

[Ninong]

Ninong : Excellent response... was very helpfull and clear... thank you so much.. i'm killing my clownfish with this f* Kent strontium ... i will make a 50% water change and trough these additives to the garbage..

THANKS A LOT

You're welcome!