[Aquariust]

Hello everyone! As some may know, I am in the process of building a large stand for my new 125G tank. There will be a sump in the stand.

I've had a few people tell me that paint, epoxy, primer won't adhere well to PT wood because of the arsinic. I know that PT wood does have arsinic. Is this a danger? I was planning on using a oil based polyurethane (malomime) or 2 part epoxy over the PT 4x4's (under a primer). The gentlemen at the paint store told me it would probaly flake off. He said it takes PT wood 3 months to get rid if the arsinic.

Is there any way to remove it? Or coat it with something to neutralize it?

Has anyone ever built their stand out of PT wood? Any comments?

If worse comes to worse, I can always cover the 4x4's with 1x6" pine inside the stand.

Just curious for some opinions

[nucleuscracker]

why use PT wood? With all the dangers behind PT wood I would be afraid of having PT wood in my house... let alone outside....


JMO

[Aquariust]

apparently I was not made aware of this until after the stand was completed.

[Reefland]

Welcome to Reefland!

What type of design is the stand? Are the Pressure Treated boards used for a frame structure? I can't think of an easy way to cover what is already there. Perhaps 1/4" plywood would be easier to work then 1x6" board.

My ultimate recommendation would be to use something other than Pressure treated lumber, but I can see your delimna already having it complete.

Scott

[jcwbnimble]

The best you could probaly do is put the stand outside and let it weather. The outside elements should help the PT wood season quicker than if it were inside. Also, I don't think you want the arsinic to "leach" inside the house.

If you are really concerned, you might want to take the stand apart and replace the PT 4x4's with regualr douglas fir or even red wood. Red wood might be better becuase it does handle damp conditions slightly better than DF.

I built my 80g stand out of DF 4x4's and 3/4" plywood (the kind with the fine wood veneer) and then sprayed the whole thing with some sparathane. No problems with the supports or any of the plywood rotting.

Good luck,

Scott.

[Aquariust]

Unfortunately taking the stand apart is not posibble. It is already finished in pine, so I really can't leave it outside for more than a couple days. The basement does have a ramp, so I can bring it out to bake in the sun, and then put it back in the basement at night.

I have seen a few stands who have used PT wood. Maybe I should get ahold of someone who makes PT wood?

I was thinking of sealing the PT wood, then covering it all with the 1x6 pine and some 3/8's plywood. Then I would seal and caulk the entire thing.

Here's the pics:

http://defcon200.bizland.com/aquariust/id2.html

Thanks All!

[SKRIZ]

John,

I used PT wood on my stand. I didn't paint them, but i did stain them and they took that well. I covered the outside with plywood, so, the PT wood does not show at all, except when you open the stand. I do not think you will really have a problem painting it. especially if you are using an oil based paint. -hth good luck

[Aquariust]

thanks skriz,

To give everyone an idea how big the stand is:

http://defcon200.bizland.com//sitebu...s/paintcan.jpg

There are several paint stores in the area! I went to Sippersteins yesterday, and asked some questions. Asked about the finish, which is going to be a stone fleck, the clear coat, which I believe he said was a polyurehane, and the inside I could use an epoxy, or his recommendation, an oil based paint, polyurethane. We use Malomime where I work for repainting counter tops, and he said that would work fine if we primed it first. He recommended 1 coat of primer, sand it, then give it two coats of the malomime. The malomime is $35 a gallon, and if I can get it free, could you complain? Or should I use a stain for the inside??? Does caulk stick to stain?

The guy from sipps also told me to use an acrylic caulk to fill any joints. Especially since we are moving the stand up the steps. We're using an hvlp gun and compressor to apply the stone fleck. The malomime will be aplied by brush (purdy) and wizzy roller.

I sanded the 4x4's with an 80 grit sand paper. We'll see how it works.

Also, the wood is still pretty wet. Do you think it's wise to leave it out in the sun for a coulpe days? I would like it to dry out, but I don't want the wood to crack. I also don't want the wood to shrink to much. The lip the width of the tank sits in (tank is 18.75" wide) is only about 18.85" wide. So if it shrinks to much, my tank won't fit in the stand! I have wood slats in the middle to prevent that from happening.

Is using refrigerator cardboard a good idea under the tank?

More updated pics at the bottom of this page:
http://defcon200.bizland.com/aquariust/id2.html

The stand is actually done, other than the painting and moving part. I will have finished pics up tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help!

[ranaman]

I would let the the wood dry a bit before sealing. A sealer for PT lumber might say whether this is needed. Fresh PT lumber is really soaked inside. It shouldn't leach if kept dry. Sealed and painted it shouldn't give much problems. Alot Of LFS by me use PT 4X4s for making tank racks.

[icemark]

Something else to remember when using PT lumber, it is soaked in Copper based solutions, so besides the arsenic you also have copper, nickel, formaldehyde, and many other toxic materials. The idea with PT wood is to make a wood that nothing will eat.

On the same vein, make sure you are using a breath mask, long pants/shirts, and heavy gloves when working with PT wood.

And do not leave any of it exposed inside the house. If you are dead set in using it I also would let it sit outside dry for at least a month or two to leach out all the formaldehyde into the air, before using the sealer.