REEFLAND DANKNESS........55 gallons of the chronic!!

[charlie]

I am gonna agree with everything you said except the part about the alk. I keep mine between 7-9 DKH, and have had absolutely good success with my sps. JMHO

There is no reason IMO to push levels past NSW levels

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

Updates! The LR in the rubbermaid is starting to turn green! It is also hard and does not scratch or rub off the rock. I'm hoping that I am seeing some positive signs of life upon my LR. However, i have only been 'curing' (a ****ty job i might add) the rock for ten days. This seems to be a relatively short time period, because i have read that it can take much longer to cure live rock if it is not in optimal conditions. Either way, i'm looking forward to the next couple weeks to see what develops! I also have the tank up and running (finally), i was having issues with filtration. I decided last-minute to use an old sump that I had accumulated instead of buying a hang on skimmer. The rock has been placed in the tank, and the skimmer, brand new heater and pump, and powerheads are running in the tank.
I'm also doing some behind-the-scenes work (or lack of work) that I am waiting to display. I want to reveal the information, but I will not feel comfortable with my decisions if I do not achieve the results I'm seeking. So, once the tank is a success, the smoking gun will be revealed. PICS!

Tha Tank!


Tank + Sump


Sump in action


Green-coloration that is showing up on all the rocks:

[Parrothead]

Looking good

Just want to check a couple things that we all check when we see a new build coming together,

1. Do you have a siphon break on your return line??? Very important
2. Did you unplug your return pump and see if you sump will hold the back flow in case of power outage??

Like I said, couple simple sounding questions,

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

No, and No. So far, I have focused mainly on making sure my return pump would keep up, my tank temperature, and a bubble problem with my overflow box. I did not have a whole lot of time to monitor the tank last night, I just wanted to get it up and running.
I needed to monitor the return pump because I added a larger pump (550 GPH) as the return. previously I ran too small of a return pump, and had problems making the sump work 100% correctly. The new pump fixed that problem, victory numero uno.
I was debating where i would put my tank heater, whether in the tank, or in the return pump compartment of the sump. I was unsure if my new heater (which turned out to be a 300 watt powerhouse) would be able to run the H.O.T return pump chamber effectively. This morning, i was looking at a range from 76.5 to 77.2. Victory numero dos.
I am accumulating bubbles in my overflow box, and cannot get this to stop. a Foam rectangle has been placed in the front of the overflow, which reduces bubble leak to virtually zero. But, this morning, there was a decent accumulation of bubbles in the top of the overflow. I do not wish to suck bubbles out every f-ing day- so i need some assistance in victory numero tres.

The overflow in case of power outage will be looked into. In addition to making sure the sump will hold what the overflow sump line throws at it, i was planning on doing something to stop a syphon from the return pump line also. I had been told that simply drilling a hole in the return pump line somewhere near the top of the water will work to eliminate a syphon effect. Regarding the sump break- are you referring to an open/close valve (or on/off) on the overflow sump line? This i do not have, but am aware that this needs to be done, but like I said, last night was the conception so this baby still has alot of growing to do.

[Parrothead]

simply drill a hole in your pvc return line just a little bit below the water line, that way if there is a power failure the siphon will only be till it reaches that hole, and remember to keep that hole clean

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

ok i fixed my overflow bubble problem. Victory numero tres! My overflow line was set too deep in the sump, and was causing resistance that did not allow correct flow from the overflow. When I raised the line up closer to the water surface, i noticed a complete stop in bubble penetration almost immediately. Then, the return pump chamber began to fill up to the original water level I measured yesterday- booya!

Also, i drilled the hole in the PVC on the return line, and tested the sump capacity and it easily held all the water that syphoned back from the tank. Thanks for the tips- I achieved and learned a lot today.

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

I ran some tests on the tank today- the results are better than expected. Considering I had set the tank up in less-than-optimal conditions, I had hoped for the best, but expected the worst. I wouldn't have been surprised or disappointed to see some seriously dangerous readings. I hoped that what I had researched and what I had been advised to do in setting up my tank would get me a good jump-start. I should have had a little more faith, because my tank has been running excellently (to my expectations) and shown encouraging signs of life.

I just got a new test kit- Marineland Reefmaster kit.
Results:
PH- 8.0 (I have some PH up, should i use that?)
Salinity- 1.025 @ 73 degrees F
Phosphate- .6 mg/l
Nitrate- ~10 mg/l (maybe a little less)
Calcium- 425 mg/l
Alkalinity- 3 Meq/l or 150 ppm

Discussion: I don't have an ammonia tester- should I get one? I am a little concerned about my Nitrate levels- my Nitrate tester will only read as low as 10 mg/l, should I be looking at a different tester? My phosphate levels are acceptable, but I would like to lower them- what is the easiest way to lower them?

[charlie]

I ran some tests on the tank today- the results are better than expected. Considering I had set the tank up in less-than-optimal conditions, I had hoped for the best, but expected the worst. I wouldn't have been surprised or disappointed to see some seriously dangerous readings. I hoped that what I had researched and what I had been advised to do in setting up my tank would get me a good jump-start. I should have had a little more faith, because my tank has been running excellently (to my expectations) and shown encouraging signs of life.

I just got a new test kit- Marineland Reefmaster kit.
Results:
PH- 8.0 (I have some PH up, should i use that?)
Salinity- 1.025 @ 73 degrees F
Phosphate- .6 mg/l
Nitrate- ~10 mg/l (maybe a little less)
Calcium- 425 mg/l
Alkalinity- 3 Meq/l or 150 ppm

Discussion: I don't have an ammonia tester- should I get one? I am a little concerned about my Nitrate levels- my Nitrate tester will only read as low as 10 mg/l, should I be looking at a different tester? My phosphate levels are acceptable, but I would like to lower them- what is the easiest way to lower them?

A couple of things:
You need to raise the temperature to at least 78.
Your phosphate levels are by no means acceptable.
Your nitrates are close, but still high.
Leave the Ph where it is at.
Look around and see if you can find some Salifert test kits, they are more reliable and accurate.

To lower the phosphates we need to understand a little more about your system, this has only been up for less than a month right? You are going to want to let things ride for at least another 2-3 weeks, I think you are still cycling. You haven't any livestock in there yet, do you?

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

thx charlie.

Temperature has been raised and now sits at or near, but not above 79.5 degrees F
I will take to heart your opinion on the salifert test kits, but for now I am going to stick with the Marineland test kit. The main reason is because i spent too much money on the Marineland kit (65 bucks is alot to me- cheap ass ) to only use the test kit one time.
I do not have any livestock yet and am in no rush to force things into this tank. I still have alot of life in me so i can afford to be patient.
The tank itself has been up and running for 6 days now. I had previously filled the tank with sand and crushed coral a few weeks earlier and had been circulating the water and filtering the water somewhat. I recently ordered a new return pump as well as tank heater, which just came in last week. So my skimmer, overflow, and sump have only been functioning for a week.
The LR has been cycling in water for two weeks now. The first week i cured the LR in a separate tank, so i could scrub the rocks clean and also to make water changes easier. Once i noticed a green coloration coming back onto the rocks, into the tank it went.
So here we are.....

I also did some reading on lowering my nitrate and phosphate levels. Vodka? I read up on dosage and everything else, so I know how the vodka trick works. Should i start dosing with vodka yet or wait until I am finished cycling?

[charlie]

Take my advice, leave things alone for about 3 weeks, do NOT dose vokda, you may think you know the results, but your tank is way to new to even start messing with it my friend, I know experienced reef folks that have crashed whole systems with that crap.

Do some extensive reading on tank cycling, there is plenty of info out there. JMHO

[Parrothead]

Vodka is meant for dosing adults, usually mixed with orange, grapefruit, or cranberry juice, not fish tanks, there's better safer ways, like charlie said, read, research and ask before acting

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

Since i have began cycling my rock my light cycle is as follows:
actinics come on at 7 a.m.
daylights come on at 9 a.m.
daylights go off at 7 p.m.
actinics go off at 8 p.m.
LED lights run from 8 p.m. until 7 a.m.

I read that a good light cycle for cycling rock would be starting with four hours of light in the tank for the first week, then add one hour of light per day each week until reaching a twelve hour light cycle?
1. Is this correct?
2. given my current light cycle, should i leave my light cycle or change?

[Awesome Box of Rocks]

wow been a while since i last updated- took a week off for spring break. Nonetheless i have updates, will soon post some pics.

2 questions:
1. will someone reply to my last post?- its been ten days since i changed my light cycle, so i hope what i did was right.
2. I am starting to get some life in the tank. Brown hair worms? they are on the rock and showing up in the sand as well. Also I am getting a film on the walls of the tank, some small brown spots are beginning to show up. I read that brown hair worms are not harmful to the tank, and can symbolize the end of the live rock cycling? Do i need to remove the hair worms, or leave them?

Also, I ran more tests within the tank. I do not think my LR has completely cycled yet, because I am still reading 10 ppm nitrates. I am showing brown hair worms, but nitrates not reading zero. (still do not have an ammonia tester, nobody replied to let me know if i really need one).

Test results:
Salinity- 1.027 @ 80.8-81.4 degrees F
PH- 8.2
Nitrates- 10 ppm
Phosphates- 0.6
Alkalinity- 225 ppm

Calcium- Ok. I do not know if I even want to type this, but I ran two tests of calcium yesterday- reading around 800 ppm? can this be? Should i be doing something about this? Once again, I am not 100% my LR is completely cycled, but would this even affect the Calcium? I don't have the slightest idea how to go about saving my tank from 800 ppm Calcium readings. HELP!

[twisted]

hey! welcome back! your light cycle is fine..11 to 12 hours is good. just cut the led's back to just a few hours
your tank is definitly still cycling. sounds like diatoms and hair algae. if 800 is correct thats wayyy to high. i would check it with another kit.
it could be from your rocks you are using though. im sure someone else will chime in. what does your fresh water source test?

[rluix]

wow been a while since i last updated- took a week off for spring break. Nonetheless i have updates, will soon post some pics.

2 questions:
1. will someone reply to my last post?- its been ten days since i changed my light cycle, so i hope what i did was right.
2. I am starting to get some life in the tank. Brown hair worms? they are on the rock and showing up in the sand as well. Also I am getting a film on the walls of the tank, some small brown spots are beginning to show up. I read that brown hair worms are not harmful to the tank, and can symbolize the end of the live rock cycling? Do i need to remove the hair worms, or leave them?

Also, I ran more tests within the tank. I do not think my LR has completely cycled yet, because I am still reading 10 ppm nitrates. I am showing brown hair worms, but nitrates not reading zero. (still do not have an ammonia tester, nobody replied to let me know if i really need one).

Test results:
Salinity- 1.027 @ 80.8-81.4 degrees F
PH- 8.2
Nitrates- 10 ppm
Phosphates- 0.6
Alkalinity- 225 ppm

Calcium- Ok. I do not know if I even want to type this, but I ran two tests of calcium yesterday- reading around 800 ppm? can this be? Should i be doing something about this? Once again, I am not 100% my LR is completely cycled, but would this even affect the Calcium? I don't have the slightest idea how to go about saving my tank from 800 ppm Calcium readings. HELP!

You can buy water additives that will remove calcium. The only one that I know of will soften the water too.
The brand name is Kent Marine. But doing some reading and the range for a marine aquarium should fall between 400 and 500 ppm. The kent additive will soften the water which might not be what you want.
Aside from doing water changes you can also add critters that will use calcium such as snails, and shrimp. Also check your water source and change it if it has high calcium.