New to SW -have 2 questions

[Original Fin]

You are well on your way. Once nitrItes go to zero, wait another week. Then you'll want to do a series of 20% water changes until you get your nitrAtes to no more than 10ppm. After that, your regular maintenance water changes should be no less than 10% every two weeks. You can do more, but it get's pricy and cumbersome...the key is to keep it consistant. Pick a qty and frequency you can live with, and try to stick to it as much as possible.

After you've got nitrAtes below 10ppm, you can fire up the skimmer and lights and add a clean up crew...snails, hermit crabs, and what-have-you. They will help you with the algae issues that come with all start ups. Start with short lighting periods and work your way up to 12 on/12 off, otherwise the inevitable algael blooms will be worse than they need to be. Fish and corals (if that's what you're going for) will be your last adds. A quarantine tank is highly reccomended as one bad apple will very quickly spoil the bunch. These forums are chock full of stories about those who didn't think it was worth the bother, but now they sing it's praises. Since a QT tank needs to be cycled as well, that's something you may want to think about setting up soon. A simple sponge filter on a 10 or 20 gallon tank should suffice, but you need time to seed the sponge in your main tank or sump. Read up on LeeBCA's stickys in the marine fish only forum to get quarantine and stocking info.
Keep in mind that the LFS and internet retailers are all misguided sources when it comes to determining minimum tank size recommendations for a given species of fish. I was surprised and dissapointed to say the least when I first discovered this. I thought I was going to have tangs and groupers in my 55, but I was sorely mistaken. Also, if you intend to keep a reef with corals, that limits you on type of fish too. The majority of fish available to hobbyists are either not good in mixed communities or are not reef safe due to their feeding habits, so a stocking plan should be thought out well ahead of time. Usually works best to add least aggressive species first, most agressive last. Also, try not to get caught up in any advice that would have you calculate inches of fish per gallon. It's ok to get you in the ballpark, but size is not always a good indicator of bioload footprint. The activity level of the fish has more to do with it than size.

[Original Fin]

I'm curious now... what did you get for a protein skimmer and lighting? Makes/Models?

[tank1970]

Thanks so much Fin big help - Looks like my Nitrite's are on the way down only 15ppm

The lighting is T-5 (only 2 right now) will be adding a second for a full 4 bulb set up.

I don't have a protein skimmer yet - any suggestions would be helpful. I was told I would not need a protein skimmer till 2 months after fish.

[Original Fin]

I know you already have some sort of refugium...can you describe it? Is it a part of a partitioned sump system? If so, this us the best place to put a
PS. These types are called in sump. Just make sure you are able to keep the water level consistent in that compartment, or else you'll go crazy trying to keep it in adjustment. Overhead clearance can be an issue with some models.
If you can't do one in a sump, then you've got two options: hang on the back style, or inline. HOB's do a pretty good job, but most are not designed to skim from the surface, so it's much harder to control surface oils and films. Inlines are very effective, but also tend to be the costliest since they are designed to be both serviceable and 100% water tight. Usually, pumps to run them are not included, and these also require the most thought when it comes to plumbing.

[tank1970]

My refugium is 2.5gal hanging on the side of the tank. So I would need a skimmer on the back of the tank.
Here is a pic of the latest look of my Aquarium.

I have started to paint the back Black.

[Original Fin]

In that case, check out the Aqua C Remora Pro, and if you get one, look into getting optional surface Pre-skimmer.

[tank1970]

Thanks - that skimmer looks perfect do you have one?
At what point will I need to add a protein skimmer?

[Original Fin]

I almost got that one, and wish I did now. I ended up getting a good deal on a B stock CPR Aeroforce at $160. The CPR flows 100 GPH and it's rated up to a 75 gallon tank. The Remora Pro with the Surface skimmer option smokes the CPR, but it should considering its higher price point. The Remora Pro flows 350 gph and is rated for up to a 120 gallon tank. Another thing the Remora has over the CPR is smoked acrylic, which means less algae cleaning for you.

[Original Fin]

I would add the skimmer when you add your CUC.

[tank1970]

Thanks so much Fin

I know you have helped out a lot of people and appreciate answering my questions.

Maybe I am missing something but what does CUC mean?

I will be buying the remora.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

Clean Up Crew.

[tank1970]

Oh I better order one asap then. Why would the aquarium store staff tell me to wait for 2 to 3 months? hmmmmmm.

Also I thought I saw a AIPTASIA on one of my rocks, I will take a pic tonight and post it. But it does not have long tentacles - looks more like a button with hair around the edges.brown with a white center. About 3mm across. I will try to take a pic and post. But if anyone has an idea let me know

[Original Fin]

I'm happy to help a fellow enthusiast. I'm a firm believer in pay it forward, and what comes around, goes around. I hope I can give back some of what I've learned from the rest of the community.

You probably could run without a skimmer for a while, but it would just mean you'd have to do water changes more often. There's probably a point where a large bioload might produce waste faster than you could reasonably remove it with water changes. Snails and crabs produce waste too, especially larger ones like turbo snails.

You may have read about a few hobbyists that run their tanks without any protein skimming and/or water changing at all...most of what I've read on this has them relying on specialized "Miracle Mud" type substrates where the qty and diversity of microlife contained within supposedly uses up excess nutrients before they can foul the tank. You're supposed to utilize the mud in a deep bed. The claim is that the mud is loaded with calcium, strontium, magnesium, iodine, etc. that will time release, doing away with the need for water changes and new salt additions. It's a very interesting read, and I like the idea, but this method is way out on the fringes, and not at all a widely accepted method. Google GARF and read up on their "Bulletproof" system for more info on this. If nothing else, it will help you to understand the progression of fitration methods throughout the years in this hobby. Protein Skimming with live rock and water changes (Berlin Method)is still by far the most widely used and proven method in reefkeeping, so for a beginner, that's clearly the way to go.

I had fish in my tank for a couple months before I added the skimmer, but that's mostly because I didn't know any better. I also cycled the tank with a Damsel because my LFS said that was the way it's done, so whatever advice I give is coming from having made a bunch of mistakes myself...the biggest one was rushing in without doing enough research, and trusting the wrong sources, so I applaud you for trying to take an informed approach. Having said that, I'm just 6 months into the hobby myself, so please don't take my word as expert advice. I would think that if I gave you any advice that was way off base, someone else would jump in. That's why I like this site. It has a nice mix of experience levels and backgrounds. Some of the other sites, particularly the BIG one (which shall remain nameless) can be a litle frustrating because there are too many people ready to jump in and bicker amongst themselves who is the smartest in the room. The OP gets info overload, and and a thread full of arguments.

Also regarding the addition of a skimmer, new plastics, acrylics, PVC etc, all need a little time in saltwater to "season". You may notice anywhere from a day to a week of microbubble production from the plastic surfaces, while various chemical processes take place, leeching mostly inert/harmless gasses into the tank water. One thing to keep in mind, is that new skimmers may not extract much in the way of skimmate durring this curing time, so putting it in a week or so before you add fish couldn't hurt, although the difference is probably negligible.

As for the aiptasia, I'll reserve my guesses till you can get a pic posted.

[tank1970]

Big thanks again Fin :-)

Well the cool thing is I can learn from your mistakes - I have learned so much already from you and this forum. It helps when going into my local (very good) shop and have info to ask and understand other options. I hope to also pay it forward.

I will put the photo on tonight once I get a good shot. I am afraid it might be a aiptasia I will keep you posted

[tank1970]

Ok here are the photo's - was very hard to take since these guys are 2 inches from the surface.
When I moved the fan the thing closed.

Hope you can see it.
Let me know if you have any ideas.

[tank1970]

Here are two more photos of things I have not been able to identify

[Original Fin]

Hard to tell what that might be, but aiptasia do have fairly long tentacles from what I can see when I do a Google image. I've never had one in my tank, but I do have a hitchhiker button polyp that's been ID'd as some sort of Palythoa. It's appearance has changed quite a bit over the last year. Started off as a caramel collored spec...sometimes the center disc is green with medium brown tentacles, and sometimes the whole thing is brown. Sometimes it turns itself inside out too. Here's a recent pic...

And one from back in June...

This thing is harmless, and it has yet to multiply.

[tank1970]

wow very cool

Yea I have been killing myself to find out what it is. I don't think it's a aiptasia. this guy has transparent little fingers all away around. I think maybe it came from my refugium. I have also spotted a few bristle worms and after I shut the lights off a cool looking coral or something. it's like a grassy tuft with little balls at the end. I also think I spotted a group of feather dusters. I think the last few LR i put in must have been populated with these. I don't think they actually died off first since I put them in after the ammonia spike. I also noticed a tube with two little tentacle coming out. I know I have seen them in hitch hikers photos

[tank1970]

Wow I have to say I am totally enjoying watching life start in the tank.

So far 4 bristel worms seen
dozen or so spionid worms
some copepods

Would love to find out what is in this photo


Also just lower on the rock when I shut the lights off a small hair like bush with little dew drops on the tip came out - I tried to take a pic but almost impossible since it looks transparent and only comes out when the lights go off.
I will try to get a pic but I will need to do a long time delay with manual focus.
I have been looking around but have not found anything