New to the Game - could use some answers

[NoobSalt]

Hey friends,

Bare with me please as I am so new to this!

So I set up my 12g Nano Cube yesterday and I have some questions. First here is a list of what I have.

12g nanocube - stock EVERYTHING (filters, lights, biocubes etc...) I have heard a lot of people say get better powerheads and things, but as I am just starting, I'd like to go with the stock things for now, so any info on how good these stock powerheads and things are would be awesome.

As far as whats in the tank - Live sand, about 7-8lbs live rock, 6-7lbs filler rock, and "ocean" water. It said it was from the ocean so I assume it is, point being, i didnt mix it.
My question is, how long till the filler rocks go live? and, when can I add a CUC. I have seen all sorts of opinions throughout all sorts of msg boards. Ive heard to wait 2 weeks, ive heard 3 days. I would like to wait 3 days, haha. I did a test of my water last night, and pH was good, about .5 on the ammonia (sp?) i think it was 10ppm Nitrites, and something similar in Nitrates. Granted, I know day 1 it was probably fine and things will spike, but a general idea of when I can add a CUC and then some fish/coral would be nice. Also, any suggestions on a CUC??

Lastly, what do people think of these nano cubes? Im sure I will make mod's to it as the years go on and i have more and more money to spend, but for a beginner, it sounded pretty good to me.

Thanks friends!

PS here is my tank @ Day 1! Oh and if anyone has suggestions on how to position rocks for better growth or anything, and if you have any advice on breaking live rock to have more to work with that would be awesome.

[chrisfont23]

I would wait on the snails...at least a month or so to give them something to "eat" - the tank is too new and algae is not yet prevalent for snails. The rocks depend. Are/were they cured? If not, this process might take a while.

[Original Fin]

The answer is going to have to come from your test results. Once ammonia and nitrites hit zero, start the clock and wait two weeks before adding any clean up crew. Then wait a couple more weeks before adding your fish. One very small fish is all that system will handle.

Nanos require less time and money to maintain, but they are also much less forgiving to inconsistancies, so for that reason, they are more difficult for beginners. Whn things go wrong, you have much less time to fix it. You'll need to be spot on with top offs and water changes...salinity is very easy to screw up in such a small volume of water... so is temperature, over feeding, overdosing, etc.

Have you found the sticky thread articles here yet? They have everything the beginner would need to know.

LR is easy to break up...hammer and a chisel will do it with minimal harm to the life within, as long as you don't keep them out of SW too long. Dry rock goes live within weeks as long as your water is good and you also have LR for seeding.

[NoobSalt]

Thanks guys. So levels are good for the most part as of today:

ph - 8.4

Ammonia - .50ppm(This one Im wondering how to reduce? I have an Ion and buffer 2 part chemical that I added day 1. It's called Kent Marine Nano Reef Ion and Buffer system. 2 bottles, part A and B - do I use this daily? and what exactly is this? Sorry I know this is probably annoying, but I really want to do things right and learn more and more)

Nitrites - 0ppm - Nitrates - somewhere between 0ppm-5.0 (More towards the 0 side of the spectrum)

Salidity - way too high, how do I get this down? I calibrated the hydrometer and the needle goes straight up when I test, does this go down with the cycle process?

I have not checked the sticky notes? Still new to the site too, so just finding my way around. In fact, this is the first forum I ever joined. Typically I just learn as I go and its worked, but with this, I want to do it right.

There is some Algea already on the LR, like a decent amount. not a TON but enough I think to feed things. I assume that means it's cured? (Again, my bad for not knowing ANYTHING)

Lights - on or off during cycle?

Last thing - My water is clear, but not CLEAR. Like a little hazy, reasons, cures?

Thanks again!

[chrisfont23]

Personally, assuming it's fishless, I wouldn't do a water change until the cycle has completed. I wouldn't task yourself with reducing the ammonia in any artificial way either. Let the cycle endure...it's natural and no chemical is going to make it better/faster IMO. All chemicals do is upset the balance. Nitrites and nitrates come next. When all are 0, you have cycled. Do you have a test kit? If not, that might be a good investment off the bat. NH3, NO2, NO3, CA, MG, PH and PO4 are the ones to target. Red Sea and API have decent kits. What equipment do you have? Lighting? Powerheads? Skimmer? Etc. Do you have a hydrometer?

[NoobSalt]

Yeah I have test kits - Results are in the post above yours as of Day 2. I do have a fishless tank - pic is at the top. moved the rocks around recently. Yes I have a hydrometer. most everything you asked is answered above I think. As far as lights and power head go I have this:

two 24-watt 50/50 compact fluorescent lamps

Powerhead I think is like 120gph, whatever is stock in the 12 gallon nanocube.

3-stage mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration

I don't plan on doing any water change till after I add a CUC - at least thats what ive been told.

[chrisfont23]

Thanks. I can't read (and recall) I think you are doing fine...just keep monitoring the levels and when you hit 0, wait a week or two before adding any CUC.

[NoobSalt]

haha no worries! I've been keeping an eye on things and I think I might be good for a CUC, Ive gotten so many different pieces of advice, I think I'm just gonna go with my gut and learn as I go. Any advice on how to get my Salidity/Gravity down? Does this gradually go down with the cycle?

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

You'll have to manually adjust your salinity. The cycle doesn't change salinity. A great process to follow is: Setting Up a FOWLR Aquarium.
I've set up and cycled my tank using tis method with no issues.
be careful about going with your gut and learning as you go.
That usually ends up with setbacks and loss of livestock. Better to research and learn beforehand.

If you haven't addressed it yet, you should really consider using a quarantine method for all new livestock. A lot of time, that could be the difference between success and disaster.

[NoobSalt]

I dont plan on adding any actual fish for a bit, gonna work on getting salidity down over the next day or 2, speaking of which, why is it so high to being with? The only thing I'm gonna add is a CUC.

[Original Fin]

Noob, when you top off for evaporation loss, you need to do it with regular water ( prefferably RO, distilled or RODI ( good, better, best). Salts do not evaporate with water, so if you are topping off with Salt water, the salinity will only get higher and higher. That's my guess.

[NoobSalt]

Yeah, Have not done any topping off yet, just need to get the salinity down, so I figure tonight after work, im gonna stop by the store, by some distilled water and see if I cant get the salinity levels to drop.

[Original Fin]

What is your SG reading, and what type of tool are you using to measure it?

[NoobSalt]

Its pretty much as high as it can go. I'm using some terrible hydrometer, plan on getting a refractometer (Sp?) sooner than later, but dont have the $$ to dish out for one just yet. I spoke to my LFS and they told me I can just add some distilled water from the grocery store, after some reading, i see I might even be able to find distilled RO or DI water at the grocery store, Ive also heard spring water is good?? Is this true?

What do you think, my tank capacity is about 7.5 -8 gallons of water, and my SG reading is as high as the meter can read, so how much distilled water should I add?

[chrisfont23]

If you have 10 gallons of water, you need to dilute it rather than top off. Since you have no livestock yet, this isn't going to be a drastic measure. I would not do this drastically w/ livestock. What I usually do is to syphon off about a gallon and add a gallon of RO or distilled. Then measure with your hydrometer - Instant Ocean sells one for about $20. Once you get that in line, simply ensure your top offs are done w/ RO / Distilled and your water changes match the SG of your tank water.

Topping off is always done w/ fresh - never with salt, since the salt doesn't evaporate. Expect to lose between 1/4 and 1/2 gallon per day, varying w/ lighting, lid use etc. Water changes are more of a challenge. Usually I mix 3 gallons (three 1/2 cups + 5 TBSP of Instant Ocean = 3 gallons @ 1.025 SG for me)...check that ratio though. I then put into my distilled and refill my 1G containers. Store @ room temp and use for changes...I have been doing this with no problems for a while.

[NoobSalt]

Yeah, so here is my game plan when I get home later - Take out about 10-15% of the current water, replace with distilled water from the store. You are correct, no livestock, so Im not worried about killing anything I want to get my levels right before I add this CUC.

So in short, you think a 10-15% water change, adding distilled, taking out salt will bring down that sg enough? or should I replace more?

[chrisfont23]

So in short, you think a 10-15% water change, adding distilled, taking out salt will bring down that sg enough? or should I replace more?

My crystal ball is hazy Really, it depends on the amt of salt you have in there now. Having the reading not even budge off the top seems like it's very high. Play it safe - I would start with a gallon. Remove. Add distilled. Wait an hr or so to settle. Measure. Evaluate. Repeat. Aim for between 1.023 and 1.025. I am assuming you have a decent tool to measure (by then) too. Otherwise, it's probably a waste, no?

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

Just a reminder... a CUC shouldn't be added until after the cycle is complete and stays that way for a couple of weeks.

[NoobSalt]

The good news is, I have no livestock in there, so I cant really hurt anything, but starting with a gallon sounds good, hopefully that will fix it, if not, then 2!

[Original Fin]

Go in smaller increments, like a cup at a time till you hit your target salinity. If you intend to keep inverts and corals 1.025 to 1.026. You can go a little lower for a FOWLR...1.023 to 1.024. Just pick one solid target an don't let it deviate more than one half of a thousandth i.e 1.0255 to 1.0265 would be your operating margin if you choose 1.026 as your target.

Make sense?